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Leaking Pinion Oil Seal Confirmation?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by mickeykelley, Mar 26, 2019.

  1. Mar 26, 2019
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    Both the front and rear axel pinion oil seals are leaking. The front is slinging oil up on that side of the engine making a mess. So while the engine is out, I want to tackle it. In reading up, I'm not real clear on if I have to mess with setting the lash once I pull the yoke. Some places I read seems like just pull the cotter pin, the nut, pull off the yoke, replace the seal and then reverse the process. But how tight do I do the yoke nut?
     
  2. Apr 20, 2019
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    Finally getting to this and first found that my nut did not have the cotter pin and don't see it on the shaft either. This is a '58 with the 5:38 rear. I'm doing the front first since the engine is out. Next, the yoke is scared. What is the opinion as to whether it will just leak again so replace it? Walcks seals are much better quality than what was in there.

    I can't seem to find the torque spec for the yoke nut in the FSM.

    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2019
  3. Apr 20, 2019
    TIm E

    TIm E Aggressively average

    NW Arkansas
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    I've had pretty good luck cleaning up the seal surface using 220 grit Emery cloth. Takes awhile by hand, but you can also take a long bolt through the yoke with two big washers, chuck it in the drill press and polish it that way.
     
  4. Apr 20, 2019
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    You just put it back the same as it was. No adjustments. That's a lock nut, not a castellated nut that takes a cotter key. You are supposed to use a new nut every time it comes apart. The nut torque is something huge, like 220 ft-lbs. I will try and find it.

    Later - '72 TSM says 200-220 for the 30. Should be the same for a 25 or 27.
     
  5. Apr 20, 2019
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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  6. Apr 20, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Personal opinion is to either replace the yoke or get the old one sleeved.
     
    jpflat2a likes this.
  7. Apr 20, 2019
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Is there a speedy sleeve for this app? Recall they come with a seal.
     
  8. Apr 20, 2019
    mortten

    mortten I can’t put my finger on it 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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  9. Apr 20, 2019
    Chilly

    Chilly Active Member

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    Dont forget to put RTV between the shaft and ID of yoke. Dont recall how exactly to seal that up but will be a leak path if not done right.
     
  10. Apr 20, 2019
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    You'd think they put a line on the seal part saying you should replace the nut. Oh well, tired for the day and getting hot. Walcks is running 10% off this weekend and I need some other stuff.

    You can really see the groove so I'm not sure it's worth trying to save. And not worth doing the seal now only to have it start leaking again in no time. I'll just get a couple while on sale since they are apparently the same front or rear and for both the CJ and the Wagon. I know I've got to get all of the seals replaced so stock up now.
     
    Glenn likes this.
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