Knuckle studs...again

Finally getting started on this project...
Does anyone know a cheap source for studs for the Warn locking hubs?
Warn gets a ton of $$ for them...

 

IIRC I bought mine from McMaster-Carr.

 

Got mine at NAPA. Also the local hardware store had them.

 

X 2 on McMaster Carr. Not the cheapest but a great selection of parts and your time it's worth something.

 

Are grade 5s ok For the knuckle button heads I cannot find grade 8 on McMaster carr they call the bolts equivalent to grade 5?

 

This is the bolt that Chuck has used and recommends above: http://www.mcmaster.com/#91255a647/=vsl37s

 

I certainly hope those bolts work...I'm in the process of installing them right now!!

 

http://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/bolts/proofloadtensile.htm
at 120,000 psi tensile strength the mc master ones listed are well above grade 8

 

I read the not so modern problems in jp, then stripped a bolt hole with my disk swap. I needed longer bolts for the thicker bracket so I decided to just do this. Hardest part so far was getting the knuckles to the mill. When drilling the counterbore with the hand drill I used a bolt to stop the bit from going too far.

 

Golly, I've been doing this 4X4 thing since 1968. I have never had a need for knucle studs, (mine are the stock set up). Even when I worked in a Jeep shop in Denver, I don,t recall it ever being a problem on anybodys axles.

 

I've had numerous problems with the bolts, but that was on a rig that was used for plowing snow, so the front end took a beating.
I'm replacing the clutch packs in my front Powerlock, so I decided to do this upgrade while the front end is apart.
The cost is pretty minimal.

 

If you have a problem, you have to fix it, like me and the Volvo exhauat fun.
I have a powerlock in the rear of the 3B. With the V6 and 5:38 gears I've driven many trails in 2WD HI while my friends had to go to 4X4. A front powerlock would be fun.
Carry on, perhaps someday we can get together for a trip.

 

A front Powr-Lok works really well for a SWB Jeep. They will help in the snow, and the only time I ever had difficulty steering was while backing up a steep slope on granite slab. The Powr-Lok had so much torque on it and was locked up so solidly I couldn't turn the steering wheel until I unloaded the torque by stepping on the clutch pedal for a moment. That experience really showed me how well these units work.

Don

 

Just to clarify, proof load on grade 8 bolts is 120,000psi, yield strength is 130,000psi and tensile strength is 150,000psi. All american made cap screws meet grade 8 specs or better unless they are specialty or stainless.

 

So this chart http://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/bolts/proofloadtensile.htm is not accurate for diameter and thread count? The chart states that for 3/8-24 grade 8 the minimum tensile strength is 13200. the mcmaster ones are stated as grade 5 but have a minimum tensile strength of 120000lb. Is this information wrong?

 

Nobody has the need, until it happens to them.
You at the minimum should carry at all times Grade 8 5/16" NF bolts, nuts, washers etc that can be used (although smaller diameter) for an emergency field repair.

 

The mcmaster Carr says better than grade 5, that chart is not wrong, the mcmaster Carr statement is not truly accurate, kind of misleading. The strength rating is per square inch, there isn't a square inch of surface on a 3/8" diameter bolt. In fact there isn't a square inch of surface until you get to roughly 1-1/4" diameter of bolt.

 

When researching some of the mil spec socket head cap screws that had certificates of conformity I also came across something like 12.2 grade. All I know is that socket head cap screws, stainless and specialty are ALL at least grade 5 if they are USA. So lets say you had a 1/4 -20 bolt, would you multiply 190,000 X.25 to get the tensile strength?

 

The 12.2 should be for metric bolts, most of ours at work are 12.9.
Your not exactly right about .25 but you are on the right track the ratio is slightly different but you would be closer. Figure surface area based on a cross section of the threaded end.

 

So, in a nutshell, the MMC supplied bolts, listed above, are at the very least, scientifically and metallurgically adequate for this application, correct?