Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by rejeep, Feb 14, 2013.
dedicated ground to the tank? bad grounds do funny things.
Did have the fuel and ecm relay inside the cab....never had a issu 4 years of operation.
Well it took 4 years, but it finally took a tow truck ride.
At minimum the intake is coming off next week..
ruh roh shaggy!
What were the symptoms?
Just When I Was About To Start Another Build.....
Short story is oil and water don’t mix...
Compression and coolant pressure test is pointing toward intake gasket...
Haven’t really driven this much this year.. weather was crappy beginning of the spring and I have the Rover I have been putting shakedown miles on.
When I pulled it out of storage it was very hard starting/idle and there was a pop with a backfire...
I felt it was low on power, but I chalked that up to feel after driving a low geared dauntless in the Rover.
So I got it detailed and polished and when I started driving it home the temp gauge was running hot and wonky... down a gallon of coolant with no leaks...
Going to start digging into it Monday...
I think we have a winner...
going to have to spend a bit more time sealing the intake manifold.
there is a lot of info out there.. watched some youtube videos last night.. seems Anaerobic and RTV is the preferred method now.. any suggestions from the peanut gallery appreciated as well..
whomp whomp....at least you found the problem! good luck getting it fixed!
Anaerobic is great for tight sealed bores and certain areas that are sealed...........but a good high heat RTV in that application since it is open to atmosphere is what I would use. I would also go the extra step to see if the mating angles are correct for joining all those parts.........not sure of the history as to what was done to that motor like surfacing the block or heads or the history on the manifold.........but now while it's apart is a good time to look.
just the man I wanted to hear from....
Appreciate the feedback...
Im going to pull the build sheet, as well as test fit before anything gets sealed up..
Buttoned this up tonight...
Didn’t fill cooling system, waiting till RTV has time to cure. I feel dirty that I used red high temp stuff... it looks so elementary but I wasn’t taking any chances this time around.
Fill and burp tomorrow... we’ll see what happens.
Slow down and get some gas.
This truck does 70 all day long on the hwy with no complaints.
I like to post updates to persistent problems in hope it could spare somebody the same aggravation.
Since "new" I have had some underlying issues with the ignition/fuel injection system.
without going through all the details the 2 second version is I would experience random shut downs either while driving or at idle. Sometimes it would fire right up after a min or not.
After swapping out the Duraspark module for a Mopar Orange box I no longer had any ignition trouble, but still random shut downs.
end of last year all signs pointed to the fuel pump relay possibly giving out, and I had not experienced another issue until yesterday.
Yesterday while running some errands the truck shut down at several traffic lights.. I would be idling just fine and then nada.. wait a min (a very long min in traffic) and it would fire right up.
I made it home after errands and picking up the kids. It was shutting down on me more often than not.. it was finally failing with enough consistency that I felt good about diagnostic and finally nailing this..
I let the truck idle in the driveway until it shut down... thinking it was the fuel pump relay I bridged the relay for constant 12 volts and let it idle..
engine shut down... GREAT.. not the fuel pump relay
while sitting with the ignition switch in the 'RUN' position I observed some pulses on my Fuel pressure gauge, but nothing constant.
I don't know what tempted me at this point to wiggle the connections on the ballast resistor, but I did and i was able to replicate the pulses of the fuel pump. Turned the ignition off for a min and turned key to "ON" and I got a solid pulse from the fuel pump and I was able to fire the truck.
I'll cut to the chase now..
In my dealings with the Duraspark (frying them constantly) I was told to throw a ballast in there to hopefully keep it alive longer..
The Howell computer has a "tach filter" in their harness that steps voltage down to 5 volts for the ECM trigger (taken from the - side of the coil) Howell gets a full 12 volts from their supplied fuse block connected to an ignition on source.
What I think was happening is the ballast resistor would step the voltage down before going into the coil, coupled with the tach filter in the Howell harness the ECM wasn't getting enough signal to trigger the computer.
For right now I have the ballast resistor bypassed. A full 12 volts going to a correct internally resisted coil (electronic ignition) and things seem to be happy. I have a snappier throttle and so far no shut down from the Howell system. I'm carrying a spare coil at the moment, but I feel like I finally have this licked.
Moral of the story for people that scrolled to the bottom looking for a picture..
too much resistance = too little a signal for fuel injection
Good Job.......sometimes you just have to throw parts at it or eliminate them in a systematic order.......at the very least you now have a much better understanding of what it needs to both live and perform.
Those intermittent problems are the worst to diagnose. I was really feeling for you with the stalling issues. You try and enjoy your awesome build only to deal with this aggravation.
Glad you got it fixed.
So you have a system that will not control the adavance timing?
if yes, why you dont just put and Hei in there ? Have it with a Tbi on my amc 360 and in 5 years i only have problem with the cheap pump (Holley blue pump) and since i change it to a napa fuel pump no problem ever since...
simple answer about the HEI is I'm just not into it for a non GM application..
the ford distributor is just fine and stock, so easy to replace.. the Durapsark system is fantastic, its the aftermarket units that are not as robust as the OEM units.
I think its all vetted out at the moment.. motor runs great and im not trying to eek out more MPG's so I think Im going to take some sage advice and leave good enough alone..
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