Jeep T18 Into Cj6

Yep I thought I remembered seeing felt before a dedicated seal...........

 

As far as I know the numbers 1301 on the side indicate a T18

 

Right so the box is now all torn down and I've started cleaning everything. Main shaft is apart and I started reassembling the 1st/2nd hub.



How the he'll do you hold all the 3 springs and balls in place long enough to get the gear over them

I tried everything I could, large cable tie, piston clamp and nothing would exert enough pressure long enough for the gear to be slid over them. All I did was spend hours on my knees looking for dam ball bearings.

I'm looking for knowledge from wise one's.

Also anyone know why the reverse idler bearings are not included in the rebuild kits? I've mine apart, cleaned and checked and it all looks perfect so I'll probably rebuild as is, actually same for the cluster gear, bearings etc were perfect and I bet are of greater quality than the new kits one's.

 

So the replacement front bearing arrived from Rockauto today, nice Timken box, however inside was a FAFNIR bearing that's made in Turkey and worst of all is 23mm wide and not 20mm (0.7874") as listed. Repackaged and it's on it's way back to Rockauto.

What's the chances this was an error on their stock or am I likely to get the same thing again?

The part should be a Timken 308L1

 

It's deja vu all over again!

You understand, this is the exact situation I had when I got this bearing from RockAuto. Same exact problem, also a Fafnir bearing. They sent me a replacement, and I sent back the identical replacement for the first bearing. They gave me my money back and told me to go away. Cost about an extra month in down time. I expect this is a problem with Timken and their listings, not RockAuto.

 

Use A worm screw clamp.

 

I hope your wrong Tim as I will have to resort to machining the shaft to fit the 23mm bearing instead as I can't put the crap Chinese one from the kit in as it's just rubbish

 

Is this just a standard width jubilee clip or a wider one?

Do I need to grease/lubricant the clamp or will it naturally slide down?

How much force do you need to exert on the gear when going down over the detent balls. Should it be easy or do I need to get physical with it.

 

Is this what you recommend


Or

 

Hardly any USA made bearings out there anymore.............India, Japan , China and a few others is what's out there.


QUOTE="IrishCJ6, post: 1414986, member: 11203"]How much force do you need to exert on the gear when going down over the detent balls[/QUOTE]

What melvinm said....grease it all up so the springs and balls stay half way in place and start screwing down the screw clamp slowly making sure everything is in it's place.......some times two clamps work better.........You should then be able to get it started at one end and slowly slip it in............

 

Check out Novak. I rebuilt my T176 with their kit and also used them for a hydraulic clutch conversion. Not only will they have the parts you need, but their customer service is second-to-none and their website houses a wealth of information I bet you'd find helpful. They definitely know their stuff. I highly recommend them from my experience.

I'll be following this thread; I just got a T18 for my CJ5 and I'm hoping I did my homework enough that it will fit.

 

Ditto on Novak. I buy all my rebuild kits for trannies and Tcases from them. Their directions are great and they are helpful on the phone.
Mike

 

Been really busy at work and family holidays so the gearbox is still in pieces. I did however manage to get the 1st/2nd hub rebuilt (what a pain in the arse) and have rebuilt the reverse gear slider. I should get a few hours this weekend so I hope to get some more done then. Maybe even some photos. Oh and I will be using the 23mm bearing in the front so I'll try and give info on how I do it.

 

Managed to get a little time in the garage today so fitted reverse cluster and rebuilt and installed the main cluster gears into the box. I used a dowel to hold the needle bearings in place which helped immensely as I fitted the shaft on first attempt. Also started putting the main shaft back together with 2nd gear and 1st gear back in place. Got slightly confused with the 2nd gear placement as the snap ring the goes between 2nd gear and the 1st hub didn't seem to lock 2nd gear in place (was able to move on the shaft). I spent ages looking at diagrams and my parts to see if I had missed something but I hadn't so just continued to assemble. There seems to be different versions of the box with some that have additional needle bearings in the 2nd gear along with a spacer, and some that fit directly. Hopefully I will get the rest of the main shaft completed this week and hopefully get the box back together next weekend.

 

Here's what it should look like, maybe itll help you out

 

Well this must be the longest ever gearbox rebuild in history, unfortunately work and life commitments have meant the Jeep has been left in it's broken state. As you know I was not happy with the cheap Chinese 20mm bearings on offer for my gearbox, so I ordered a quality Timken 23mm bearing instead and went to look at how to make this fit in place of the 20mm bearing.

First off I looked at the existing gearbox, gears and gear markings to see if there was a possibility. On review it became apparent the the 1st motion shaft gear did not fully engage with the cluster gear, which was easily identifiable by the ghost markings left on the gear see pic below

So there is clearly enough material here to shave the 3mm needed. There is also space between the gearbox webbing and the cluster gear (approx 6mm) However when we took a closer look into the new Timken bearing we noticed that it would be possible to shave 2mm off the inner race face of the bearing and still have sufficient meat left for strength. So into the lathe went the bearing and we took 2mm off easy enough. See below
The bearing material is very hard but with the correct tooling and effort it come out fine.

Next was the tricky part trying to take the 1mm off the first motion shaft gear face, the metal on the gear is case hardened and bloody hard, we did manage to shave the 1mm off but went through 2 cutting bits in order to achieve the result. See below
So the end result is a 23mm quality bearing in place of the 20mm bearing, and no changes to the internal workings of the gearbox.

I now only need to get it all back together and into the Jeep. Probably in time for winter

 

Box back together, ran out of time to close it up but it's all in and seems to be working fine with the 23mm bearing in place of the 20mm.

 

More work done today, the gearbox is back together finally. All looks nice and tight and all gears seem to be shifting correctly

 

Gearbox is back in the Jeep, it's exactly 6" longer than the T150/D20 combo that came out. Had to redrill cross member and modify the gear lever opening. Have to shorten the rear prop and lengthen the front one. Whilst under the Jeep I noticed a burst rear shock so I now need new shocks. Hopefully it will be up and running shortly

 

Not sure if you were able to add a magnet to the inside of the case? I didn't see it. Something that was recommended to me, and I think was in one of the posts above. made sense to keep the little bits of magnetic metal what not from getting picked up after they settle down and floated through the bearings.

I used acetone to clear a spot down low in the case, then JB Weld and stuck the magnet in that little pile of goop and let cure. If you've not yet added dino-sauce to your case, you might consider it. I put mine near the drain plug, but not to obstruct the flow out the plug hole.