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Install Distributor Clamp

Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by chrisg, Dec 26, 2018.

  1. Dec 26, 2018
    chrisg

    chrisg My Flatty Sponsor

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    Changed old distributor bc breaker plate was crap, and vac advance not good. Also put pertronix on it... having issues getting it to start... have spark at plugs and coil.. have gas at carb. So timing has to be off.

    This collar that holds dist goes on over notch on timing cover?

    I should be at number 1tdc and pointing at 1 on the cap, right?

    Thanks ,
    Chris
     
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  2. Dec 26, 2018
    NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever Sponsor

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    #1 tdc on compression stroke. Remember two tdc's (comp and exhaust). To insure, remove plugs rotate to tdc where finger is pushed off plug seat when timing mark nears zero. Continue rotating until mark aligns with zero and install dist so rotor is pointing to tower of #1 cyl.
    The lip of hold-down runs over top and bends down over the boss, the two fingers press on the base of dist to seal and hold it in place.
     
  3. Dec 26, 2018
    zeppy

    zeppy New Member

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    Number one needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke. Once you do this the rotor needs to be pointing at the number one plug wire on the cap.
     
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  4. Dec 26, 2018
    chrisg

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    Thanks for your reply NC. That's the process that I went, and I removed the cap and I think off... question: on the rotor, is it the front part of the contact? Maybe I have a a little off.

    On the clamp, it has a little ridge on the timing cover, does it fit tightly into it? I tried to install a few times and then it comes loose and dist moves. Its difficult to tighten this mounting bolt, limited access.

    Thanks,
    Chris
     
  5. Dec 26, 2018
    3b a runnin

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    May be 180* out
     
  6. Dec 26, 2018
    Keys5a

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    Distributor hold-downs are difficult to access. There are special wrenches made to reach around to the base of the distributor.
    As far as the rotor goes, the center contact of the dist cap contacts the center rotor terminal. The flat contact on the end of the rotor is what transfers the spark to each cylinder contact on the cap. You want that flat rotor terminal to be pointing exactly to the corresponding #1 cap terminal when everthing is alighned correctly. You can take a sharpie pen (or equal) and mark the outer diameter of the distributor housing on the surface where the cap sits on the housing, marking exactly under where the #1 cap terminal is located above. With this mark, you can align the flat rotor tip directly above the mark on the housing. They have to line up exactly. If the rotor and mark are not in alignment, you are a tooth or two off, and this has to be corrected. This is all based on being on #1 piston at TDC as NCRenll posted above. Also keep in mind that the distributor also drives the oil pump. The oil pump shaft also has to be aligned with the slot in the base of the distributor drive, or the distributor will not seat completely on the clamp flange of the timing cover. You can use a flashlight and a long slotted screwdriver to adjust the oil pump drive. When the rotor lines up with #1 terminal, and the distributor seats fully home on the flange, you can then snug that hard-to-get-to bolt so you can start the engine and set the timing.
    Good Luck! -Donny
     
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  7. Dec 26, 2018
    NCRenII

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    I'm pretty certain you have a 225 v6 so the clamp viewed from top front has the dist at about 9 o clock from the bolt location and the tab at about 3 o.clock all on the timing cover. If the dist slot is engaged to the oil shaft slot and seated as described above maybe try flipping the clamp over to see it it will hold the dist from moving?
     
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  8. Dec 26, 2018
    chrisg

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    Thanks zappy... I may be a tooth off

    Chris
     
  9. Dec 26, 2018
    chrisg

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    Thx donny.. so, would the oil pump slot be lined up when 1 is at tdc? I've been bumping with the switch to get close, and then back up the balancer to tdc... I have a dist tool, but it's a pita bc the ps bracket is in the way. I thought I had it installed correctly, but it looked like it was jumping around and the bolt loosened up.. maybe it wasn't fully seated.

    Chris
     
  10. Dec 26, 2018
    chrisg

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    Thx nc... I'm pretty sure the clamp was installed correctly. It has a rubbed spot from the bolt/ washer. Gonna give it another shot tomorrow. Oh, btw it is a 225

    .

    Thanks,

    Chris
     
  11. Dec 26, 2018
    Keys5a

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    You can turn the oil pump shaft (with a long screwdiver) to where ever it needs to be to allow the whole assembly to fully seat onto the timing cover.
    -Donny
     
  12. Dec 28, 2018
    chrisg

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    Donny, I've never had any luck with distributors, and this one is no different . I removed valve cover and number one plug.. bumped till number one tdc, and pushrods for number one are moveable. Having trouble lining up oil pump slot. Is the notch on the distributor housing alignment for number one cylinder?
    Thanks,
    Chris
     
  13. Dec 28, 2018
    NCRenII

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  14. Dec 29, 2018
    sterlclan

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    recently pulled the dist from the boys 225 reinstalled it one tooth different than it came out runs better now. timing the 225 is a little different than the small block chevy, its dependent on the rotor pointing to the right spot on the cap, one tooth off results in a misfire. the threads mentioned above will help.
     
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  15. Jan 1, 2019
    chrisg

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    Well, got it running today, thats the good news. Thanks guy's for your help

    Chris
     
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