Howell Odd Fire V6 Fuel Injection Kit Install

After warming up the computer made adjustments and it started running pretty good. I changed both radiator hoses while doing the install. Burping the cooling system is always a pain.

 

On the cooling system, I run the Jeep with the radiator cap off. Add coolant when needed, just keep a eye on the inside of the radiator

 

That's what I do too. Need to be careful to not fill too much at the start or it can burp a bunch of coolant back out.

 

Howell has probably already recommended this but take it out for a few short (15-20 mile) drives with varying conditions. Get on the freeway, county roads, up hill and down, starts and stops with multiple throttle changes. It will allow the computer to learn and help you assess if you need further assistance from Howell with regard to the tune.

 

It's said the 4.3L factory collar between the air cleaner and the TB provides a few more HP, compared to an air cleaner sitting right down on the throttle body. Like a velocity stack of sorts I presume; the original air cleaner has a flared base like a velocity stack.

 

That's freaking awesome! That's it the Holleys days are numbered.

 

I was not using the high beam indicator light.... Seemed like a perfect spot for the check engine light.





Pretty much done. I need to make a longer air cleaner stud.

 

Was going to ask where the warning light was going. Nice location.


How much time for install.

 

Damn sounds good, my name is jealous.

 

Sounds great . Best looking kit I've seen makes for an easy install.....I'm always Leary of efi on the trail ......I can always get home on my Holley and a hammer .....but I might be selling my 390 and go this route

 

After seeing this I am really leaning this way in lieu of piecing together a megasquirt system. I love the fact that it is a COMPLETE kit and it looks very well thought out. All those extra parts I sold may be paying for this.............

 

I did allot of other work along with this. Total I would say maybe 6 hours on the injection itself.

 

I guess I march to a different tune because I'm not leery of my efi system at all. I heard others make that same statement. I believe even Norcal69 said something similar in another thread yet we regularly see someone commenting about their carburetor not performing correctly and don't question that.

I would be willing to bet, most if not all here drive a vehicle that utilizes efi and they often travel thousands of miles from home without giving the fuel system a second thought. The Howell system used in this install was originally installed by GM in vehicles in 1987. They can still be found on the road today. That's 33 years ago which to me says the system is pretty dang reliable.

Kyle did a very nice, clean install and I know he will be pleased in the long run.

 

I took a little drive last night. The jeep runs much crisper than it did with the carb but it had an intermittent stumble under load that felt similar to when a carb begins to run out of gas. This was with fuel supplied from the rear tank.
This morning I took a short drive with fuel supplied from the front tank. The stumble was not as bad.... but still there. When I got back I noticed the check engine light was on. Code 44 Lean condition.
I called Howell and talked with Troy. I explained the dual tank setup, switching valve, ect. He requested that I check fuel volume/ pressure and call back.

 

Build a purge tank to draw fuel from, that way there is always a perfect supply of fuel to draw from. This is basically what the fuel commander is.

 

With the engine running I felt around the header for any exhaust leaks that could cause a lean reading. I seem to have a small leak on the back side of the o2 sensor bung. Maybe ill try welding it on with a mirror.
My next step might be to bypass the valve and run strait from the under seat tank to the fuel pump. That would basically gravity feed itself to the pump and should eliminate any fuel starvation issues if it is on the tank/ pre pump end of things.

 

I kind of like the Ford F-series dual tank setup from the 90s. The switch on the dash switches the gauge and activates the in-tank fuel pump for the selected tank. This valve is on the frame rail: https://www.amazon.com/Ford-F1uz9b263b-Reservoir-Assembly-Selector/dp/B0042HFX68

It's a passive valve that prevents back-feed into the non-selected tank and switches the return line to the tank that is currently pumping fuel. It also has a nice sized fuel filter built in.

If you're going with dual tanks with pumps in/near the tank, it's a pretty simple solution. It's got quick release fittings, so you could also have a couple of plugs and bypass lines in the toolbox for emergencies.

 

I'm trying to avoid multiple fuel pumps. Unless there is a way to accomplish a surge tank without adding a second pump?

 

You may want to reconsider the second fuel pump. It could solve two issues. One would be the placement of the pumps closer to their respective fuel tanks which helps them perform better. Two would be redundancy in the event of a fuel pump failure which external pumps are more prone too than in tanks pumps.