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Heater Control Cable Questions

Discussion in 'Early Jeep Restoration and Research' started by mickeykelley, Jun 20, 2018.

  1. Jun 20, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    My 58 CJ5 did not come with the factory heater, but I have acquired all the parts. On the 3 cable bracket that bolts to the center lower dash, what size bolts did it use and I assume there was a nut up behind there?
     
  2. Jun 21, 2018
    Oldriginal86

    Oldriginal86 Member

    Pasadena, Md.
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    If my memory is correct they are 1/4” x 1/2” long. I think the nuts for everything that bolts under the dash had square nuts. Not that anyone is going to see them.
     
  3. Jun 22, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

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    My heater cables have a few separations and don't slide as easily as they should. One I think actually has a kink in it. I've tried cleaning real well and soaking in tranny fluid for several months while periodically pulling them back and forth. It has helped a whole lot but with the breaks in there also, has anyone tried actually undoing the crip and replacing the cable?
     

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  4. Jun 22, 2018
    Twin2

    Twin2 wasn't me 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
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    how about just using the outer sleeve on a choke cable
    you get to keep your knobs
     
  5. Jun 23, 2018
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Detroit Area 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    I live South of...
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    Mickey, I would try just bending them back straight as you can by hand and oil the outside of the cable, the oil will go thru. Work them in and out until they free up. If that don't help let me know, I think I have two extra in my storage unit, I will see if they have cables on them, if they do I will trade you good ones for yours. I like to have spares just in case I have to fix mine some day. Good luck
     
  6. Jun 23, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

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    Unfortunately it's a totally different setup. Looking at the crimp, I'm just not sure it will separate, which is why I asking if anyone else has tried it.
     
  7. Jun 23, 2018
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    I'm wondering if you can form a small piece of sheet metal around the break to hold it straight and then use some good heat shrink tubing to hold it in place. Which cable is actually broken?
     
  8. Jun 23, 2018
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    I'm sure it could be repaired.

    A couple of approaches come to mind - NB I have repaired the later style cables in the Intermediates, but none of this type. First, you could sleeve the break like Glenn suggests. I would use a short piece of copper tubing just larger than the coiled-wire sheath. I would solder to hold it in place - I am good at soldering. Tin both ends of the sheath and the inside of the tubing, assemble and crimp lightly with a center punch. I'd make sure the core will go through, then solder. I'd use a propane torch and electronics solder, with plenty of paste flux. The electronic solder melts at a lower temperature, and should be plenty strong.

    Or, you could remove the core and cut the steel tube just behind the crimp to release the sheath from the tube. I'd make a crimping die and crimp a new sheath (taken from a Dorman choke cable) to the end of the tube. You should be able to make a die from a small block of steel. Drill a hole through it the same diameter as the sheath (or slightly larger?) and cut the block in half through the middle of the hole with your hack saw. You can likely start the crimp with your vise, and finish it with a hammer and anvil.

    What does the end of the core wire look like? Is it straight or curled into a loop? If it's a loop, you'll need to straighten the loop to remove the core from the sheath. You can straighten the wire by heating it red hot and pulling it straight. You won't be able to form a new loop, but you should be able to use a cable nut from the bicycle store on the straightened end. I made new loops on my cables using electrical ring terminals and folding the wire back to keep it from pulling out.
     
  9. Jun 23, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

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    They have the factory loop on the end so getting any sheathing isn't going to work I'm afraid.
     
  10. Jun 23, 2018
    Oldriginal86

    Oldriginal86 Member

    Pasadena, Md.
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    They make a tool for putting the loop back in a heater cable. When I worked at a GM dealer they had one.
     
  11. Jun 25, 2018
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Member 2020 Sponsor

    Louisville, Ky
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    I got 2 heater controls, one still has the cable with the loop on the end. PM me if interested. Believe it or not I cut one up cable to do my build.
     
  12. Dec 28, 2019
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

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    My 55 did not come with a heater but I acquired the correct factory one. I'm getting ready to install the cable controls and was surprised there are not predrilled holes. I'm not having much luck in the FSM or internet searches trying find a pic showing its position relative to the round speedo. Any pic would really be appreciated before I drill any holes. This is for the early 3 cable control, NOT the later vacuum style.

    And the 2 cables that go thru the firewall to control the water and the air flap, where exactly do they come out of the firewall?
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2019
  13. Dec 28, 2019
    Jw60

    Jw60 Recovering Jeepaholic

    Sedalia MO.
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    I'll measure the holes to the steering column tonight if I can. the cables just go thru the big bulkhead grommet with all the sender wires.

    Edit I'm a lier only the temp valve cable goes thru with the senders the fresh air door goes thru here (pic was already on Flickr)
    [​IMG]20180203_204340 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    [​IMG]20181008_172744 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2019
  14. Dec 28, 2019
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

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    As it turns out there is 1 hole closer to the steering col that looks like may make it line up centered under the speedo, but there isn't a right side hole.
     
  15. Dec 29, 2019
    Jw60

    Jw60 Recovering Jeepaholic

    Sedalia MO.
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    The heater controls are centered below the cluster guage if not 1/4" to the right. with roughly 1 and 1/8" between the end of the control bracket and the beginning of the cutout for the steering column bracket in the bottom dash return flange.
    centered on this old picture.
    [​IMG]Sm465 and t90 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    Centered this am: not sure why they are upside down they show up correctly on the host site?
    [​IMG]20191229_084246 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    [​IMG]20191229_084157 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2019
  16. Dec 29, 2019
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. So looks like center knob centered in speedo, which makes sense.
     
  17. Dec 29, 2019
    Lockman

    Lockman My " Rosie" 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    White City, NY 14617
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    Hey mickeykelley,
    I've got 3) cables with knobs, but there off my ' 75 ? They've got that black rubber/ nylon 70's type thing on the knobs.
    Let me know if you could use 'em, they're yours, Sir.
    Richie----------Lockman
     
  18. Dec 29, 2019
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

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    I appreciate it but I'm going with the 50's era ones I got.
     
  19. Dec 29, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    You are talking about your wagon aren't you Mickey? Although I'm sure the location is the same essentially. Have you got the controls pictured?
     
  20. Dec 30, 2019
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

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    No, this is for the CJ. The wagon is a 55 so before the factory went with heater. For the wagon, I have a Willys Overland Harrison heater that has 2 fan motors (cabin vs defroster) so only recirculates air. No fresh air option.
     

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