Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by johneyboy03, Nov 6, 2011.
Did you took both knukkle off to rotate them or can we do it with the knukkle in place?
I was able to rotate the pasenger side without much effort, but the driver side wouldn't budge. I mounted the axle on the springs to hold it, then used a deadblow hammer to rotate the passenger side. Two of us with 2lb sledge hammers weren't able to move the driver side. Had to remove it and clean it up to get it to rotate.
Good to know, at the moment i dissemble the front end, took me 2 hours. I'll working on that this week.
i've been working tonight on my dana 44, grind the weld off but cannot see the line between the axle and the knuckle....before getting more gringding into the knuckle i want to make sure that's it the right thing to do...
I did it, one knukkle down one to go....i did not grind enough into the c knukkle but now is out without any difficulty with the hammer!!!
Awesome! Hope the second one goes as well as the first.
I'm starting working on it tonight!!!
Both knuckle down...piece of cake when you know it...took me 30 minutes to pull out the second one...I have a beer for this tonight!!!
Here's some pic of my work guy's
I got 31 inch between the spring and cj frame are 29 1/4" outside to outside, that leave me with 7/8" between the frame and the coil. This way i have about 3 inch between the coil spring and the tire. I remind you that i have an axle that is 5 inch wilder than narrow trac one. You can see on this pic the what i remove to fit the broncos arm.
Knukkle are not a the right place at the moment i will need to give the correct caster and pignon angle.
A machine shop will fab me some kind of adaptor for the Johnny joint.
I'm planning to use stock leaf spring anchor to bolt the johnny joint but i will reinforce the frame by putting 1 piece of sheet metal each side of the frame.
Nothing is weld yet but it's holding tight so i will be able to make ajustment will time will come to put axle under the Cj5.
I will need to cut the little pat that stick out of the arm because it's on the way of the direction . For direction i will use rod end 3/4" on everything.
The rear will be the same as the front but i will use rear TJ coil spring that are going to be outboard to. If any have any issu tell me everything is good to know and if i'm doing something wrong i'm better know it know.
More pic will come guys
Looking good johneyboy03. Great project!
I start working on the jeep this weekend....frame off!!!
Been working on a piece for the coil spring....
Here the piece installed on the frame with coil bucket...only spot weld will need same ajustment before final welding!!!
Picture from the rear and a good wiew where trac bar will be!!!
Now i got a problem...both arm are centered on axle but axle is not centered with the frame....i dont know where could be the problem...
Another thing i want to know how much space i need between the axle hoosing and the trac bar to make sur both wont get in contact....?
You are off to a great start.
Another wiew, i am able to use the stock spring hangers for the johnny joint...more to come
Pull out your coils and you should be able to cycle the suspension to see if you are going to hit your track bar. Will you have some sort of upper control arm setup?
No need of that with the ford broncos suspension...this suspension use wedge that you weld on the axle, the arm bolt on that so the axle cannot move.
i'll try that tonight without the oil to see if it's good!!! thank's
Need advice on shock position on the rear. I would like to place them in a triangle set-up. Both shock could be mount near the arm and mount up the cross-member i fab between the two coil tower....what is the pro/co of that set-up?
Just like that
I had a difficult time deciding how to mount my shocks. I do know that the greater the angle you have them at, the less dampening effect you get. I've seen a lot of shocks setup like the one in the picture above. Sometimes it's the only way to get them in there. As close to vertical as you can get will give you the best dampening I believe. I was able to get my front shocks vertical, but my rears are closer to 45 deg.
Big deal is i dont want to buy new shock, those are 2 years old and in great shape....i reed puting the shock at 45 deg give you more axel travel than you need for the shock...but it sound good the fact about the dampering...
Shocks are designed to work as close to vertical as possible. I have seen alot in positions like that, and they didn't always work very well.
Here's one idea.....
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