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Getting Ready To Start A Long Dormant Engine

Discussion in 'Quitters' Club' started by Vanguard, Mar 7, 2018.

  1. Mar 7, 2018
    Vanguard

    Vanguard Snappy dresser Staff Member Sponsor

    Brighton, MI USA
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    I'm getting ready to test start a long dormant engine (~20 years). I plan on changing out the oil and antifreeze, plus the transmission engine and rotating the crankshaft by hand using a socket.

    I have concerns about the fuel and will be removing it and replacing it with fresh and/or diluting whats there with new (if minimal fuel is present).

    Current fluids are present in appropriate quantities. The plan is to replace all belts and hoses as well.

    What am I missing?
     
  2. Mar 7, 2018
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    I'd pull the plugs to clean them & wile they're out shoot a little oil into the cylinders prior to hand cranking it.

    Carb? if so I'd pull it for inspection.

    Just on spec I'd throw in new plug wires.
     
    47v6 likes this.
  3. Mar 7, 2018
    Vanguard

    Vanguard Snappy dresser Staff Member Sponsor

    Brighton, MI USA
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    Fuel injection. Plug wires were new, when last it ran. I had to make them, but they still look good now. I think they were a summit high performance 'make your own' kit.

    I will pull the plugs and verify and add oil. How much do you think per cylinder?
     
  4. Mar 7, 2018
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    I guess it depends on the engine, somewheres shy of a couple of gallons per sounds about right, probably tending towards a teaspoon or so. :rolleyes:

    If you can spray it in somehow to get it on the walls & let it run down to the rings would be what you're aiming for.
     
  5. Mar 7, 2018
    PeteL

    PeteL Member Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    And let it soak for a day or three. MMO was traditional.
     
  6. Mar 7, 2018
    Vanguard

    Vanguard Snappy dresser Staff Member Sponsor

    Brighton, MI USA
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    It's a 4.5L V8.
     
  7. Mar 7, 2018
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member Sponsor

    exploring the...
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    fuel filter and look for rodent nests in the airbox
     
  8. Mar 7, 2018
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    20 years........it's probably long evaporated..........or turned to sludge in the bottom of the tank .............Don't get any garbage in your fuel injection system..........Depending on your fuel pump I would first try and run it off a gallon can of fresh fuel direct to the motor.......also keep a little fuel to sprinkle down into the throttle body to first get it started............if not take the line off at the fuel pump and Jerry rig in a clear plastic fuel filter between there and the tank.........just need a couple of short lengths of fuel line and some screw clamps .........in fact buy two filters , there cheap you may need them if one plugs up....

    Not sure what motor you have but if the oil pump drives off the distributor pull it and prime the motor...best way to save things...

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Mar 8, 2018
    Vanguard

    Vanguard Snappy dresser Staff Member Sponsor

    Brighton, MI USA
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    The engine is 1973 Mercedes 4.5L V8. Not sure how the oil pump is driven.


    Already vacuumed out the rodent nests that I've been able to find. Mostly in the trunk.
     
  10. Mar 8, 2018
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    An alternative to spinning the oil pump is to detach the return line from the filter canister & pump oil into it for a minute or so. I did something similar with Tonk.
     
  11. Mar 8, 2018
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    Maybe crank it for a bit with no plugs first to ensure oil is everywhere it needs to be.

    I'd be just as concerned with the antifreeze reacting with the aluminum after sitting so long. I ran into this:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Mar 8, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

    Washington DC.
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    MMMMMMM. whatever that stuff is, looks just like mom used to make!
     
    DrDanteIII likes this.
  13. Mar 8, 2018
    Vanguard

    Vanguard Snappy dresser Staff Member Sponsor

    Brighton, MI USA
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    That's nasty. I was planning to flush the cooling system and refill with Zerex G05.
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  14. Mar 8, 2018
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    She fed you coagulated antifreeze?? That explains a lot. :D
     
    75 DJ and 47v6 like this.
  15. Apr 1, 2018
    tomasinator

    tomasinator Member

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    That stuff looks like the Creepy Crawlers goop (particularly, the glow-in-the-dark color) we used in a Mattel ThingMaker in the 1960's.
     
  16. Apr 18, 2018
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist Sponsor

    Albertville, AL
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    That is caused from using tap water to mix with antifreeze, your not suppose to put anything but distilled water into a system that has aluminum in it. Motorcycles manufactures will void the warranty if they find tap water in the system, says right in most manuals to use distilled water or premix only.
     
  17. Apr 18, 2018
    Hellion

    Hellion Rust covered & junky

    Eastern TN
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    ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders is a rather time honored method. Maybe a shot glasses worth into each cylinder.

    Also I second the use of a "cheater" tank, like an old lawnmower gas tank hooked directly to the carburetor, and gravity-fed. Tons of videos on YT showing "first start in 20 years" or the like. It is always assumed that the gas in the tank has turned to varnish so the wise guys bypass the tanks and feed the carb directly.
     

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