Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Focker, Oct 9, 2015.
I actually never went through with it.
heres my setup jeep dana 30 with ford bronco outer axles and locking hubs and chevy backing plates and chevy /wilwood calipers
Doing this modification on my sons 69 gladiator. Does anyone know if I need to remove the check valve in the front mc reservoir? The mc is for a 69 do I’m assuming I will have to.
I posted it so you can see how hard it was for me to remove. I ended up having to buy a new MC.
I did some research after my initial post and found out that I will have to remove the check valve. I was advised that a MC from an early 70s ford f100 pickup with power brakes and front disc brakes will work without any modifications as it was designed for disc brakes. I will keep the forum updated as I proceed with the project
my lines were backwards ,,,,,,for about 20+ years ....
Mr. Focker ,,,,, did you use the same full drums master ? or get a disc/drum master ?
I was going to use the original one until I ruined it trying to remove the valve. I ended up buying a new MC. I'll look at my records for the one I bought. I believe it's for a Ford?
My complete parts list:
The MC is not a direct bolt on...It required some minor modification to the Jeep's MC mounting setup.
Master cylinder - '76 Ford Bronco disc/drum - Raybestos MC36399 1" bore
Brake output fitting - Napa Part #:641-3305 (front) Thread Size: 3/8"-24 x 1/2"-20
Brake output fitting - Napa Part #:641-3306 (rear) Thread Size: 3/8"-24 x 7/16"-24
Caliper mounting brackets - '76 Chevy K20.
Caliper - '71-'78 Chevy K10 - Oreillys Part #: 18-4045 Right
Caliper - '71-'78 Chevy K10 - Oreillys Part #: 18-4046 Left
Organic pads - '71-'78 Chevy K10 - Oreillys Part #: LD52
Rotors - '77-'80 Jeep CJ - Raybestos 3550R
Brake hoses - Napa Part #: 36761
Banjo bolts - Napa Part #: 82698
10 qty lug studs Dorman - Part #: 610106
12 qty Grade 5 - 1" fine 3/8"- 24 thread bolts and lock washers
Buy rear brake parts for a '71 Wagoneer...Use 1" bore wheel cylinders with 3/8-24 Thread Size.
11" Drums Wagoneer Backing Plate Numbers:
Bendix - 315688 Right
Bendix - 315687 Left
Drums - Part Number: ND 4401123
Shoes - Part Number: TS TS10A
Hardware set - Part Number: UP 2238
The f100 MC was not even close. There was no hole in the plunger for the push rod. The boys at NAPA gave me a MC from a early 70's F250. Its pretty close but the stud spacing is 3 1/4 and mine is 3 3/8. Mr Focker, what did you have to modify on the Bronco MC? I hope than I'm not hijacking the thread by adding a booster to the discussion. I am on the fence about hogging out the stud holes an 1/16 on each side. However, all the other measurement are pretty darn close. I can always use the original equal sized reservoir from the Gladiator.
I don't remember specifics, but I do remember some drilling to make the bolt holes line up and I cut the frame a bit and the pedal arm for clearance. It's mentioned in another thread. I'll look for it and move these posts there.
Here it is - Page #4 Brake Conversions
We installed a MC from J and W. I looks identical to the one we had from NAPA from a 76 Bronco.They said it would fit the the booster they sold us years ago. After countless attempts at bleeding the system we occasionally lose the pedal .When the brakes work, the change in the way the truck stops is awesome. My son bench bled the MC and had a hard time getting it to pump up. I told him it was air bound. Can we have a bad MC ? This MC looked like it had fluid in it at one time. Ive replace numerous brake parts over the years and never had this happen. It just doesn't seems to get better after bleeding it. There are no leaks and the lines a hooked up properly
I have no experience with boosters.
So, caliper mounting brackets... I am rebuilding a dana 30 and will be converting it to disks. Its got 10" drums now from a bait and switch from the PO. Which is fine.
Question:: whats better, original jeep bracket or the Chevy? Is the answer ' the one you can find!' haha. Wasn't sure if one or the other has more accessible parts these days. Thank you!
I know that this doesn’t directly affect CJs but we finally got to the bottom of the occasional soft peddle on the Gladiator. We found that when the wheels were turned hard left or right the banjo bolt on the caliper hit the shock causing the caliper to collapse. I had to cut the mounting tab off and weld a new one about an 1/2” inward. Actually my buddy who’s real welder did the welding. Hasn’t happened since. I know that this isn’t CJ related but it’s Jeep related.
That sounds like my luck “didn’t see that coming”
Use the brakes lines listed from the parts needed. The lines on the passenger side are hitting the tire. Is there a shorter line?
Could it be that the calipers are on the wrong side? It looks like the hose is on the top, the bleed screw should be facing up. Maybe a pic with the wheel removed.
The caliper is on the correct side. On mine, I had to roll/rotate the brake hose to a slightly different position to address the same problem you are experiencing. There may be a different hose to use, but I don't know what it would be.
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