1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Frame Repair

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by string284, Feb 5, 2017.

  1. Feb 5, 2017
    string284

    string284 New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2014
    Messages:
    25
    A little back story 1st, I got my 1968 CJ5 back in 1999. tore it down for rebuild...well its time to get back to work on it after a long pause. 17 years ago I had the frame blasted and coated it with POR15.
    it has set since mostly outside and the POR has held up extremely well but 17 years its showing some rust mostly at the riveted hardware points and spot welded areas. I'm going to have it blasted again and i'm wondering if i should cut all the hangers off before i do and replace them after?

     

    Attached Files:

  2. Feb 5, 2017
    Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    Eastern TN
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2016
    Messages:
    534
    Hmm, depends on how OCD you are I would guess. But it seems quite obvious there is a bit of cancer growing in the places indicated. Can you let those areas slide? That is the question.

    Maybe you can ooze some rust converter into those areas and let it seep in and cure.
     
  3. Feb 5, 2017
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2003
    Messages:
    8,102
    I'd drill/grind out the rivets/welds.

    The hanger mount doesn't look that bad but it's easy pickins.

    The tranny xmemebr reinforceing strap looks nasty- no way I'd let the go.

    H.
     
    47v6 likes this.
  4. Feb 6, 2017
    Framer Mike P

    Framer Mike P Member

    Hopkinton, NH
    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2016
    Messages:
    217
    I would remove the xmember strap and make a new one. I would not weld in the new one so it could be painted between the layers. If there is any wear on the spring hangers I would go ahead and replace them. If the hangers are in decent shape I might consider leaving them and after having the sandblasting done reweld the hangers completely to seal out any future moisture.
     
  5. Feb 6, 2017
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    JMO - My understanding of this ... when you weld the spring hangers, do not weld across the frame. Weld only the edges that are parallel to the long axis of the frame. Welding across the frame will promote cracking at that weld. If you want to seal up the area between the hanger and the frame, squirt some MCU paint like Aluthane or POR-15 or similar between the hanger and the frame - even plain enamel would work. I don't think that new rusting between the frame and the hanger is much of an issue. The frame was welded 50 years ago with no special paint between the hanger and the frame (likely bare steel to bare steel, then painted), and it should easily last another 50 years if you flood it with paint.

    For the crossmember strap, I too would remove it and clean it up. I would not hesitate to weld in the same locations that the factory welded (a couple of plug welds?), then again I'd flood the joint with paint. There is also weld-through primer, which you can use on the steel before welding, and it will not contaminate the joint. I would use that plus the flood of paint.
     
  6. Feb 6, 2017
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2003
    Messages:
    9,754
    On the strap, literally beat the crap out of it - with an air hammer from both sides, until all the black-rust flakes are knocked out of it.

    Some low heat (700ºF) from a torch helps, and then the metal can be even shrink-flattened back down, also.

    Then
    some penetrating rust preservative oil.

    I've done a lot of that on bridge flanges.

    DSC03490.JPG


    DSC03495.JPG
     
    commanlerwrangdo and dozerjim like this.
  7. Feb 7, 2017
    commanlerwrangdo

    commanlerwrangdo Member

    Cleveland, Ohio
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2014
    Messages:
    470
    Fully agree with you timgr. Amazing it held up for 50 years with no paint between the metal pieces. ANY paint, after knocking rust flakes out and applying some treatment should outlast the original no-paint between situation.
     
  8. Feb 7, 2017
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2003
    Messages:
    9,754
    Bear in mind that steel was of significantly better quality back then. It makes a huge difference.

    On the bridge pictured above, some new I-beams (~15 years old) had more corrosion on them than the original 120 year old components. And haven't we all seen old vehicles sitting in the woods with no paint left on them, but less rusted than the modern car we are driving?
     
  9. Feb 7, 2017
    string284

    string284 New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2014
    Messages:
    25
    Thanks for all the input. gives me somethings to think about on which way to go.
     
New Posts