Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Focker, Aug 19, 2014.
I only want to remove the primer and save the original paint... How do these perform?
They will eat though the paint to the metal. If you watch grind RPM and pressure you might be OK. Would try on another piece of metal before trying on your Jeep.
Thanks... Too risky.
This is what I have.
Bought one to try... Too aggressive, but fast!
I don't have much patience for this...Not sure why I thought I would?
I'd like to slap the first person who sprayed primer on the Jeep.
I sprayed some Jasco on the primer, scraped some of it off and then used the Blue nylon wire wheel. I'm not a fan of the original color, but I'll keep moving forward.
take it to the local sandblaster, get it done; quickly. then buy some good primer, the right color match and spray it... you'll be time ahead and back on the road...
or you can do as Mr Miagi says "Wax-On, Wax-Off"
If you are going to bare metal, those are the wheels to use.
Personally I used a flap wheel, 40 grit and 60 grit. But I was a paint and body guy in my pervious life so I was comfortable doing it. I took my entire rig down to bare metal. Discovered it was repainted once, and the body was 98% bondo and rust free. Peace of mind restored on my $1,000 California Jeep project!
I covered mine in one surfacer coat, and three coats of epoxy primer before paint. I highly recommend Eastwood products, they behave very well.
I'm not trying to get to bare metal, but thanks for the ideas.
This one What's going on - Post #399
Try a hidden spot and easy off oven cleaner. Use it all the time to remove lettering and graffiti may work for what you are doing. Keep an eye on it so it doesn't eat the original paint. I don't recommend a store brand pony up for the real stuff.
Call me old fashioned, but I usually block sand things with only a couple coats over the top of what I'm trying to get to. You can start with 180 or 220, and work finer as the original layer starts to show. If you end up with original paint fairly intact, block it with 400 or finer. You can get 1500, 2000, and 5000 grit 3M products that will almost bring a gloss. A little compound on a foam pad will make it like new, if there is enough paint left. If there are sand-throughs, and you still want the vintage look, hit it with a semi or gloss clear coat.
A few pages back regarding the vented windshield, you were talking about ArmorAll and molycoat to revive your seal for the frame. Beware these are evil products to painters! They have silicones and will cause all kinds of problems. Keep these treated surfaces far away if you are thinking of applying paint.
I really like that you are trying to go back to real paint colors rather than primer as a finish.
I was flip flopping back and forth on repaint or keep at it (getting down to the original paint). I worked on the hood today and that thing is driving me mad. I decided to turn my attention to the body. I used my nylon drill attachment, but when it gets hot the it makes a bigger mess of the paint. So believe it or not...I broke out the sand paper, garden hose and put the Jeep in the grass.
First 100 grit, then 500 and final is 1200. I have to say it's actually going faster by hand.
For the driver's side I thought I would use the drill and try avoiding going as deep as I have been. Once I see yellow...I start sanding by hand.
Just starting to sand by hand (big patch by the windshield hinge). I stopped to show you guys the stages.
Maybe because it's been a labor of love...But I'm glad I stuck with it. I'm liking it and all it's battle scars.
The pix don't do it justice...Or maybe it's my monitor?
Those aren't battle scars, that's "PATINA"
Battle scars, that where you see that a jeep is not a mall crawler
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