Exhaust manifold leak

Pulled my left side manifold and found my ticking noise. Also found two more questions while I was at it.

Shouldn't the friggin' bolts be a little tighter? I was worried about breaking something, but they were just over a slight strain, although #1 and #3 seemed to have sealed anyway.

Do we not use a doughnut gasket for the pipe? Wasn't one there, but it hadn't been too leaky by looks. Don't know why; it wasn't too tight either.

I don't know how long the rig has run under these conditions, but the fella who owned it the longest did have headers on at some point, and swapped back.

Ok, three or more questions, then. What should I use to glue the new ones back on?

Well, I'm off FLAPS to order more stuff; check with you all later.

 

aren't the donuts part of the manifolds or heat riser valve ?
and the stock manifolds didn't use gaskets, metal to metal

 

Apparently, no doughnut. Just cup and bell, so to speak.

Metal to metal? Had gaskets in it, bought a slightly different version (one piece instead of indiviual). I sure won't argue with you, Jim, but I'll stick these in and see..........

 

they may be needed if the mani is warped...

 

Jim, I don't know if they are warped, but they sure do look rough. I'll go with the gaskets I bought and see what happens. If I were really in the mood and had a good reliable machinist handy, I would have them shaved flat, just for peace of mind. There's always tomorrow for regrets...

 

First time, I used some cut yourself stuff that was a PITA. Last time (after the cut yourself stuff wore out) I ordered in some metal/fabric fusion gaskets that were slick. My driver side does not have any and it seals great. The p/s must be a tiny bit warped so I use them. No "glue".

 

Felpro does make a gasket for the riser-to-manifold union...one came with a full-gasket set a while back (Advance Auto Parts).

Some friendly suggestions when reassembling the manifold-to-block: use anti-sieze on the bolt threads, and re-torque after ~6 hrs. of running time. When you do re-torque you'll be a believer at how they can back out, which leads to blown gaskets & loose bolts.

 

I gotta think not being retorqued is where this problem came from. I couldn't believe how easy they came loose, even for being apart fairly recently. Still undecided on shaving the flange; wouldn't leave much clearance to the block at number 3.

 

:iagree:

More often won't hurt.

 

Guys, my '70 had gaskets in it from the factory.:v6: