Diaphram Clutch Question/Problems

I'm having an issue (I think) with my new clutch kit from Krage.

I went from the 3-finger clutch to a diaphram style. I ordered the whole clutch kit from Krage, so I didn't bother comparing parts to see if the new parts were the same/different (I know, bad move). I also got a new clutch release lever (it was the same as my old one).

Now, with my tranny back in, the clutch will not release, or something else may be binding. It's a 71 jeep, 225 with 1-peice bellhousing (no adapter). Has anyone had similar issues with the Krage diaphram clutch kits, or should I be looking for something else that could be binding? I've got the jeep back together, and can crank it with the clutch lever all the way back, and drive the jeep around.

Also, how much pressure is needed to release the clutch? I took the linkage loose, and thought that I could feel the TO bearing hit the clutch fingers, but I could push through with very little effort (3 or 4 fingers could be used). Does that sound right?

TIA,

Jon

 

No, I double checked the fork, and it's firmly seated on the pivot. I may have received the incorrect TO bearing. I'll have to contact Krage.

 

If your careful, you might be able to snake yourself up and under the jeep where you can actually see in the release lever hole. IIRC you can see the TO bearing move back and forth a little and maybe even make contact with the clutch fingers. If the OD of the TO bearing is too small, it will slide right between the fingers and won't do a thing.

 

I can see one end of the TO bearing, but I can't see if it is making contact with the fingers. I have a bad feeling I will need to take my tranny back off to fix this.

 

I'm getting a really sinking feeling about this. I just got this email response from Krage:
The pressure plate and throwout bearing are NOTcompatible with your
bell housing. The disc and fork are ok but you need a 3 finger pressure
plate and a very odd & rare throwout bearing (used only with that rare bell
housing) We have the pressure plate and we believe we can get the t/o
bearing from one of our suppliers. It's possible to use a diaphram clutch
but it requires a rare GM throwout bearing that is not available from any of
our suppliers. Let us know how you want to proceed.


I have the 1-peice bellhousing. I don't understand how the bellhousing would make a difference. Has anyone else had this problem?

I was able to take the clutch release fork out and move the TO bearing around. It is moving freely, and it is hitting the clutch fingers. I'm going to try and put the release fork back in and make SURE I've got it in correctly.

 

i think i had the same issue you're stumbling through. the 71 bellhousing is indeed unique, it caused a problem when i went to swap trannies (it's slightly longer than all the other ones). if your situation is anything like mine you've adjusted the little all pivot as much as you possibly can and are just barely depressing the diagphram?? all i did was take the pivot and put a couple of washers underneith it to bring the pivot up little bit. this put the engagement right back in the middle of the throw where it should have been... if i remember correctly this was the krage diaphram pp and disk. it has since been changed out for a luk unit due to chattering for some reason with no other changes needed to make the luk unit work. in fact i might have too much throw now.

also worth checking would be to check and see if the cross shaft from the frame to the xfer is giving you as much throw as possible. if the solid link is too long or too short you'll be moving the side going to the clutch up and down instead of forwards and backwards... yet another thing that i dealt with when going through the PO's stuff.


::edited to correct my quality second grade spelling::

 

Hey there twiggs,

I've been in your shoes! The only diffo was that I got my diaphragm clutch kit from AutoZone. Didn't realize that it was the wrong kit until after it was installed...JUST like yourself, LOL. :twisted: BTW, you're lucky that it only happened once--I've had to re-pull & install V6 clutches 5x in 4 years for mis-matched clutch issues. No fun! But I found it easier to yank the V6 instead of the tranny. Prolly due to lack of tools, strength, nads, etc.

Gotta stick with the 3-finger p.plate. If in a pinch to find another one, re-use the old one unless you know it's toast. Lord knows where to get a new one. I scored one from a member here some time ago.

The biggie variables are the clutch disk, pilot bushing, and T.O. bearing. The proper T.O. bearing (at least for my '71 w/ 1-piece bellhousing) can be ordered cheaply & easily at Advanced Auto Parts. Simply ask for clutch release bearing part # 1625 from Federal Mogul. To be sure that this'd be the right piece, clean off the outside of your old bearing & see if you see those numbers (1625-12). Someone will have to press out the neck & re-press it into the new bearing. I employed the local mom & Pop parts store which had an arbor press. The clutch disk can be gotten anywhere, but a proper-sized pilot bushing has somehow escaped me. Prior to installation, be 100% sure that the old parts match the sizes of the new ones going in. Somehow I think you're wise to this now . Compare the depth of the p.plates & clutch disks (place flat on a table and use tape measure in center--measure thickness)...and grab the new pilot bushing from the box and check to see if it slides nicely over the tranny's input shaft PRIOR to installing it/engine (ask me how I learned that one, &*%#@&*@#... )

Hope this helps!
-Alan

 

Hippo,

Thanks for the insight. That's basically what Krage said in a later email. I asked about the washer under the pivot bolt thing, but they said it could cause some binding issues.

I was just trying to be thorough when I had the tranny/xfer case out and replace evrything that I thought might cause problems. I guess I learned a couple of valuable lessons - make sure your parts will work before you put everything back together.....and don't assume that just because the catalog says it will work, make sure it will really work..