D27 Disc brake swap on my 71'

OK,
I just read the disc brake swap article in the Tech section and it got me thinking....could be bad.

I am planning on installing a power lock in the 27 very soon and figure I might as well tackle the disc swap at the same time but of course I have a few questions.

1. Should I get rid of the current pedal set up and go with hanging pedals?
1a. How hard is it to change to hanging pedals?
2. Reason for hanging pedals - do I have to run a power booster for the disc swap?
3. What is involved with adding power booster?

I'm sure there will be many more questions prior to actually doing this swap but I have to start somewhere.

Thanks for any input!

 

You do not have to have a power booster to run disk brakes.
I don't and they stop fine.
Hanging pedals are great but require the heater to be removed and a newer style added as the old heater is right where the pedal bracket would be. It takes a bit of time and a few swapped out parts to convert to hanging pedals anda brake booster.

 

You do not have to switch to hanging pedals. I do think you need to upgrade the master cylinder if your 71 is not dual chamber. You have already read the stuff about residual valves. I added a remote booster (it is hung on a bracket behind the rear axle) but it was probably not necessary. I am currently planning a power steering conversion. The powerlocks like to go straight ahead. AM

 

Thanks for the input, it already has power steering from PO. I changed the master cylinder and as I recall it is the dual res. type. I plan on looking for parts this week and going from there. Someone told me that without power booster it would be very hard to stop. It sounds like that is not the case.
Interested in the remote set up. Can you mount one on the firewall?
I will check out the write up on the hanging pedals. I am in Ca. and the Jeep currently does not have a heater so I am not too worried about that either. I did go on a snow run a few years back and I hafta tell you it was a bit cold driving home at 9:00 at night.
Thanks again for the input and I am sure I will be back with more questions.

 

The remote unit I used is too big to mount on the firewall. It's a cylindrical structure about 2 ft long and about 1 ft in diameter. Its vacumn powered. an alternate place to mount it would be the bed of the Jeep but I did not want it there. You can see the thing on the Master power brake site. Don't buy it there (like I did) as it can be had for about $100 cheaper elsewhere. I am not sure the booster is mandatory for easy stopping. I had already bought the thing and many of the mods I have done just to see if I could do them. One big advantage of hanging pedals is the use of a firewall mounted booster

 

I don't have a booster on my disc setup and it stops great. Maybe if you were running an automatic tranny it would be a little more necessary.

 

Keeps sounding better and better. Nothing worse than wet drums when they finally dryout. I almost set my Jeep on it's nose after a long weekend of wet trails. We reached pavement and the driver side front was the 1st to dry. Talk about a scary experience.

 

I find that problem to be among the best reasons to go disc. She stops straight and tru. AM

 

Let's throw another fly in the ointment. I already have 11" brakes on the front from a 70 something CJ. Please tell me more about drilling the drums. I have access to a drill press and other assorted equipment.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

No I haven't seen that one yet. I just glanced but will take more time tomorrow.
Do the holes make a big difference? I understand getting the water out as quickly as possible but do they also disipate heat and allow more air in to dry quicker?

 

I'm going to try drilling my drums, I figure what do I have to lose. I'm thinking maybe 3/16 holes though. Thanks for all of the info on this and the disc conversion.
If I am not satisfied with the drilled drums I'll try the disc conversion.

 

OK,
Finally finished the disc brake swap. Many thanks to this board and the great write up in the Tech section. All I have left is to remove the residual pressure valve and get the Wildwood unit. My question: Where exactly is the residual pressure valve? I have a dual MC set up frame mounted Tonight I removed the brake line from the MC and then took off the big nut attached to the MC. I felt something like a diaphram in the hole. Is that what I remove?

Thanks again for all of the great technical help!