curtcanada's 1970 Renegade 1 Resto-Mod Build Post

Those were a Craigslist find, out of Montana, about 3 or 4 years ago. They were tough to find!

 

I agree whole-heartedly Chuck. Plugs are necessary, and I should have just made them a part of the wiring project. I do plan to go back and install plugs as an after thought. Focus on access to the drivetrain makes sense when reassembling. I appreciate the words of advice, and will use them.

 

That's a perfect kit! I didn't even know they made that. I figured on an indivudual connector for each wire. I like this better. Thank you.

 

Yes, those work but if you are really doing any wiring, the Delphi Weather Pack or Metri Pack are WAY cheaper at Waytek Wire. When I rewired my 3B a few years back, I changed all the connectors to Weatherpack. One place where I don't use a connector is on the firewall. My experience with firewall connectors is that they can be one royal pain in the a$$. Better to just group wires going to a specific device and put on the appropriate sized Weather Pack connector.

 

Warloch,
It looks likr Jegs has a good price on a starter kit here http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/10750/10002/-1?parentProductId=1354645

Weatherpack itself has a website with all of their products, but no prices. http://www.weatherpack.com/
These do look great!

Duffer, the firewall was exactly where I was planning to install the connectors. What makes this location a PITA?

 

I used this kit from Amazon, it worked really well and the right crimping tool is an absolute must. I checked Waytek Wire, and while they do have great prices, I didn't find a complete kit with tools.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DIIBCJ4/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I assume he means a Weather Pack firewall connector:


I use 4 pin Weather Pack connectors at the firewall. Two go to the rear and two go up front. The engine is hardwired. It works pretty well if the tub needs to be removed.

 

Stopped whining, and started workin' Decided to forego the power steering for now. Got Herm's replacement MC installed. Fits great! I opted to reuse the original bracket, it only required slightly enlarging the MC mounting holes. The replacement bracket would have needed a slight shave along the edge to butt up to the inside of the frame and line up the holes. Had to reuse a couple of the frame bolts, because the ones in the kit were too short. But, the MC tucked in nicely, and the pedal travel matched up, along with the plunger alignment. Now I just have to plumb some new brake lines, and the proportioning valve. Any suggestions on proportioning valve location?

 

MC plumbed, and decided to get new mufflers while I had it out. If you have a residual valve issue, does it take time for your pedal to rise back up? The reason I ask is because my brakes are not releasing on any of the hubs, but the pedal comes right back up. Based on post#9 from mdmeltdown from this thread http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/show...-releasing&highlight=front+disc+brake+caliper , I'm hoping my attempt at using the original one-piece push rod, with a washer behind the snap ring are impeding the fluid from returning to the MC. Won't be able to get to it until Sunday, to check.

 

Pulled the snap ring on the push rod, and the brakes released much better. They still rub a little, but I'm thinking some adjustment at the pads will fix it. Of coarse, I wasn't fully awake this morning, and the MC plunger went past the seal, when I pulled the snap ring, and the pedal feels spongy. Will probably need to re-bleed the system...GRRR! If this is the worst that happens, I'm happy!

I want to confirm that the connections between the MC and the proportioning valve are correct. In other words, is the "standard" MC connection for the front brakes closest to the push rod? This is an MC setup from Herm (with the correct residual valves already in place), so I'm not flipping the connections between the front and rear brakes.

 

Here's some updated pictures:

Jeep



Muffler



Mag

 

Jeep looks great,

any update on your brake situation?

what did you do for you rock sliders? I reread threw your build but don't see them mentioned anywhere.

 

Nothing yet on the brakes. My assumption that disc brakes were adjustable seems incorrect from Googling around. I'm going to have to jack it up, and inspect the pads. I probably won't get to it for a couple of weeks. I ordered an adjustable push rod from Speedway Motors http://www.speedwaymotors.com/SSBC-A1726-Universal-Adjustable-Master-Cylinder-Pushrod-Kit,50351.html.

The rock guards were harvested off a junk yard Jeep. They're 1/4" thick steel. No names stamped into them, but it would take a hefty brake to bend 1/4"!

 

Well I hope the adjustable push rod works for you.

I had an issue when I swapped my single reservoir master cylinder for an omix single reservoir master and brakes worked but not well. Long story short, bad brakes down big hill is scary. Turns out I had to adjust push rod.. It is amazing what the wrong push rod length can do.

Thanks for info about the rocker guards

 

Well, I had to cut about a 1/4" off the threads, and the push rod fit beautifully. Pedal comes up to within an 1/8" of the floor board, and strokes all the way down, without catching. Still not able to lock the brakes up. The pedal has more resistance (than before Herm's master cylinder replacement), but, not enough pressure is created to lock the brakes up. The pedal comes back up just fine.