Colin's 75 Rebuild

hey everyone, I'm new here. Been using the forum for a while during my rebuild, I'm finally getting to the time where I don't know as much about what I'm doing so I figured I'd join up and post what I have got so far. The jeep is a 75 cj5 with an AMC 360 from a 79 J20 (so the PO tells me), t15 trains, and Dana 20 t-case. I started the project officially years ago, when I got my first cj5 from a buddy of mine, but work and woman kinda had my priority at that time. I still got the. Both around but I'm finding some more free time now a days to get this project moving. I really technically started this build as of last July (2018) and have worked every weekend (except hunting season of course) since. After weeks of searching and weighing my decisions about the body, and talking to countless body shops (I was getting estimates anywhere from 12k to 30k, just to fix the rust on the tub and paint it) I decided to buy one of the repli-tubs from willys overland. The tub, two fenders, a tailgate, bed lined underneath and inside, shipped to my shop cost me half of the lowest price I got to just fix and paint the tub only from any body shop. I'm not 100% happy with the repli-tub, there are some things I gotta drill (seat bracket holes, hardtop channel holes) or add (E-brake cable mount) and more, to the tub. But all in all, it looks great and for what I'm doing, although not original, will be pretty awesome when done. I have fully rebuild the entire drivetrain, transmission and t-case were re built using novaks kits (awesome quality, i would definitely recommend). I spent days cleaning and painting the entire chassis, stripped the frame totally down and painted it. Axels, driveshafts, drivetrain too. Every last nut and bolt was takeen apart and cleaned or replaced. I tore both axels down and rebuilt (both ring and pinion sets were in great shape, I didn't mess with them. Replaced all seals and gaskets on everything. I also did a front disc brake conversion. I got it off summit, the brand is SSBC. Pretty happy with it, although I'm thinking finding replacement pads for it in the future will be a pain. As far as brake and fuel lines go, I got a pre bent SS brake like kit and I bent my own SS fuel lines (something I'll have a couple questions on later). I'm going to be welding in the exhaust in the next couple weeks, I bought one of the universal kits from summit (all 304, 2.5 inch) and I got 2 flow masters super HP-2 mufflers for it as well. What I'm really going for here is a CJ that I don't have to do much to or won't have to many things to replace or fix down the road. I've tried to keep everything as close to stock/classic look as possible. I'm not going to do any crazy looking mods to it, I will probably have it in a show or two once I'm done with it. But now I'm getting to the point where I know a little less about what I'm doing and I'm getting to some points where I am having questions I can't find answers to.

My current problems/confusions I'm having are,

I have my original Ebrake crossmember clips and hardware, but the new cables I got (omix Ada I believe) are a little shorter than my original cables, the spring on the wheel end is way longer, and the equalizer bracket end isn't exactly the same as before. Does anyone know where I can get the correct cables for this? I'd hate to have an e brake cable hold up getting the body on.

I also am running a duel exhaust, with an H pipe swooping under the rear output connecting the two, and I know it's tight as can be coming around the passenger side where the t-case is and the crossmember bracket. I was thinking about fabbing a new bracket for that side to allow more room in between it and the frame to run my exhaust through, instead of going up and over the t-case. Has anyone else tried that or does anyone see an issue with that?

I'm also going to be having some questions or looking for recommendations about the interior, seat brackets (I have original but passenger side was cut up at one point), wiring harnesses, gauges, and especially the transmission tunnel cover, because the one I have, when I did a test fit for the tub, was not lining up correctly with the top of the case.

I can't wait to get this thing done and on the road, and I am looking forward to hearing what all of you have to say. And as soon as I can figure out how to do pictures I'm going to be putting some up.

 

I ran my pass side 2.5 pipe through the side next to the transfer case I have no pipe hanging below the frame anywhere. Two pipes out the rear corners angled down at a 45 degree angle. I used the mandrel bent u pipes and sliced them with the bandsaw to make all the bends butt welded everything. I put two collectors in front of the mufflers to facilitate removal. There are pictures somewhere if I can find em I’ll post em to splain what I’m talking about.

 

Think I got the pictures figured out!

 

Sterlclan,

Pics would be great. That's what I've been looking for but haven't found any for the V8s.

 

I can’t seem to find em now I’ll snap a few tomorrow during the day.

 

10-4 thanks.

I still haven't had any luck finding any verifications of the correct parking brake cable. The one I ordered is the Omix PN-16730.05 and it isn't fitting. The spring on the brake side is way to long and the tip on the equalizer side doesn't seem to fit correctly with the original clips I have. I noticed crowns cable though (PN-J0999980) looks a little different, and judging, as best as someone can judge a picture on the Internet, the spring looks shorter, and the equalizer side tip is definitely different than the Omix cables I have. I'll put a picture up of the crown one I found, if anyone out there knows if it will work of not let me know. At 25 bucks a pop I guess it won't hurt to bad to give it a try.

 

Nice work Colin!

 

Thank you!

This wasn't originally going to be a total rebuild. It just kinda became one of those "well while I got this apart I mine as well..." Kinda things..

 

Regarding your exhaust system, is there any way to have the passenger side drop down then wrap around the front of the engine and meet the drivers side into a 2 into 1 collector. I did this with my V-6 but I likely have more room in the engine compartment than you have?

 

That is an option I have thought about. Haven't explored it to much though.

My initial thought was to run duals all the way back, and possibly connect with an H pipe right after the transfer case under the output.

Definitely going to do a 45 out the back corner, with a slight bend down. That seems to be pretty mandatory from everyone else's posts I've read.

That's a pretty nice, simple exhaust setup you have there though.

 

I agree with the 45 degree bend at the back corner. I have a stock tail pipe and if I remove the back window the gas fumes do swirl into the cab.

 

Hi Colin - Re the brake cables, the 999980 is the correct Jeep Corp PN for the two rear cables. The cable from the equalizer to the pedal is a 999978. I would pick Crown over Omix forward and backward, up and down, any day of the week. That the Crown part copies the original Jeep PN is a good sign, saying it will be like the original part. The part supplied for the '76-up Jeeps is different but similar, and it's often that the model years get mixed up. For example, if the Omix listing says its for years '75-83, it's the wrong part. You have to be really careful with parts for Intermediate Jeeps, since they are almost always different from the Early and Late examples. Aftermarket parts listings are often wrong, commonly wildly wrong. RockAuto lists a '74-80 parts manual on CD -ROM for ca $20, which is a smoking bargain. I paid over $100 for my printed paper copy. It can be very helpful. More Information for DETROIT IRON DCDC114

 

Thanks timgr, I'll definitely get that cd from rock auto! Got a feeling I'll put it to use. Cables are coming in on Monday.

In other news, I got my rear bumper and fuel tank hanger back from the paint shop today. Already put on and looking good.

Couple other things I'm looking into, if amyone wants to chime in with advice or ideas.

I had to cut the spindle off the rear bumper before I had it powder coated because it was way to close to the body. I'm talking maybe 1/2" clearance, without the swing out carrier on it. So I now have to find a spot for the spare, if I decide to have a spare anyways. What are yalls thoughts?

Also I am highly considering doing a hydraulic clutch conversion due to reading all the negative stuff about the factory mechanical linkage, and seeing all three of the CJs I've bought not have an intact setup when I got them, or rigged up with square stock and heavy duty zip ties. I looked at novaks kit, but it only comes with the slave and the bracket to bolt it to the bell housing (and is pretty pricey) I can fab a bracket myself no issues, I just need to find the right setup of master and slave for it. If anyone knows an exact to save me some time looking that would be awesome. Or if there's a reason I should think twice about the conversion too, throw it at me.

 

Amazing work so far! What rear bumper is that? I really like it.

I can send some pics of my exhaust system this week.

 

Thanks! I made the bumper myself. 1/4" tube and 3/8" flat bar. That's all it took. And a hitch receiver from the ol harbor freight. I made the tab on the inner side for it and punched the holes for the size body bolts that I took out of the original tub (I wanna say that we're 7/16" but maybe 3/8", can't remember exactly) But then when I got my new repli-tub in I noticed that the new mounts on that only had slots for a 1/4" bolt. Seems pretty undersized. Even if I used a grade 8 bolt. Gonna probably have to drill the mount on the body out to at least a 3/8".

That would be awesome, thank you.

 

Are the headers the Patriot ones with the ceramic coating that they offer? I was thinking about buying their unfinished ones and sending them to Jet Hot but yours look great!

 

Yeah they are. I love them. They look fantastic and the fit is great. My only complaint is they don't come with a collector flange. I got a flange off summit (JBA brand I believe). They are slightly larger and the holes don't line up but I'm going to trim them down and put now holes in the flange to weld to the exhaust pipe. They come with one donut gasket and two paper gaskets and an assortment of hardware too.

 

that's odd my patriots came with a collector flange that needed no gasket. Im three years into mine and the coating has started to rust some but I daily mine in the salt and slush in the winter.