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CJ3B Beastie

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by browncoat, Apr 15, 2017.

  1. Mar 14, 2018
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Emerson, IA
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2014
    Messages:
    361
    Could it be something as simple as the needle being indexed incorrectly?
     
  2. Mar 14, 2018
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2014
    Messages:
    7,540
    Look at the Technical Index page for gauge help.
     
  3. Mar 14, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    I have asked Morris 4x4 where I got the gauges for advice as well.
    May be a QA issue with the batch of gauges??

    Will see if they can come back with a sensible answer.
    If not I think I will get an aftermarket 2 inch gauge and run that.


    Have looked at the various gauge troubleshooting posts and topics but haven't seen the problem I am having be discussed.
    Frustrating.
     
  4. Mar 14, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
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    Oct 25, 2006
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    Didn’t some of these gauges have a resistor? Might need to see what your sender is putting out and compare that to what the guage wants to read. I do know that if you don’t ground the housing you will most likely burn up the guage, but you got that covered.
     
  5. Mar 15, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    The original fuel gauges had a reduction mechanism to limit the power to the temp gauge to 5V.
    I'm not sure if that still happens in these modern versions that are circuitry instead of wire that's wrapped around a bimetallic strip opening and closing all the time.

    [​IMG]
    With or without the sender wire on the gauge it makes no difference to the arm position.

    Earthing out the sender post on the gauge is supposed to simulate hot engine temp / low resistance if a sender was there.
    That's a way to test your sender is working or kaput, but I get no movement doing that either.

    Tried connecting it to the CJ5 speedo and it pulses backward at the same rate as the voltage reducer in the older fuel gauge is pulsing so that didn't help me much either.
     
  6. Mar 16, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    Moving past the gauge issue, spent a bit of time here and there this week doing the wipers and the tailgate.

    Got the motor for the wipers mounted.
    I think it is out of an old GM / holden.
    [​IMG]

    Had to mount it on the right hand side as the air filter assembly won't let it live over on the left when the windscreen is down.

    It's pretty large and probably too big for what is needed but it was in my parts stash so it's getting used.
    2 speed but can't work out the park feature which it should have, so it will run without the park feature and I will just judge the stop point.

    Have a cover design in mind so it will be hidden but it will be a close fit around the curve of the bonnet when the windscreen is lowered.


    The mechanism inside the screen.
    [​IMG]
    Aluminium arms, have to finalise the bushes to minimise wear yet.

    Welded stubs of pipe in the screen skin and also to the frame.
    Then made inserts from nylon as a bush for the main pivot points.

    [​IMG]

    Stainless shafts, Knurled ends for the clamping type arm ends that I will make later to grab on good and tight.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2018
    47v6, Fly Navy, 73 cj5 and 1 other person like this.
  7. Mar 16, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    Then the tailgate.

    Mostly similar to the original version but made it from alloy to save a little weight.

    [​IMG]

    Chequer plate inside / on top when it's open

    [​IMG]

    May try to box it in for a storage space but not sure what would fit in there.:shrug:
    It's would only be 40mm or about 1.5" thick.
     
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  8. Mar 17, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    Not going to try to box in the tailgate for storage, Too small a space for the trouble it would be to do that.

    So moved on to the under seat storage to replace the original tool box that doesn't fit anymore.

    Cut a plate to fit under the seat mounts for the top section.
    [​IMG]


    Then made a front panel that hinges at the floor.
    [​IMG]

    All together it looks good.
    [​IMG]
    Lockable latch for security.
     
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  9. Mar 17, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    Nearly running out of major items to be made.

    The list of things to do is being whittled down steadily.



    Started to play with the bull bar and winch set up.

    [​IMG]


    Ended up sinking the fairlead hawser lower in to the bar and will put a top across to support and strengthen.
    [​IMG]

    I think I will angle the top bar backwards for a little style.
    A fair bit of finishing work to do on it yet.
     
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  10. Mar 17, 2018
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Emerson, IA
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2014
    Messages:
    361
    "Bull bar"??? I figured you'd build a "hopper knocker.":D
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  11. Mar 17, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    :lol:
    Well, a roo bar is another name for the front bumpers here.

    But hopper knocker works too.

    After sleeping on the idea I think I will go with a pipe top section across the full width instead of the rectangular hollow just at the middle.

    I think using pipe will end up looking less boxy.
     
  12. Mar 18, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    I think the pipe style ended up looking much better.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The pipe running across the full width provides decent protection to the power steer box so that is a bonus.
    The RHS version I was thinking of to start with would not have done that.

    Bolts sticking out at the front will end up with a lifting eye attachment on them instead of a plain nut, they will act as the tow points.
    They run through the rectangular bar through sleeves so it doesn't crush, and bolt through the front tab on the chassis.

    There is also a 8.8 grade 16mm bolt through the side rails on each chassis bolted into a fixed, welded nut I installed early on in the process.
    So between tension on the 10mm bolt and shear on the 16mm bolts I think I have strength covered.
     
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  13. Mar 18, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
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    Like the inset lights.
     
    ojgrsoi likes this.
  14. Mar 20, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    Update on the temp gauge issue.

    Factory screw up.


    Actual email text.
    Depending on how old his gauge is (6 months or so) there was a wiring problem with the temp gauge. The temp gauge was wired in reverse. To correct, the wire from the 'A' terminal on the Fuel Gauge needed to go to the 'S' terminal of the Temp gauge. The temp sending unit would then go to the 'A' terminal of the temp gauge.

    Then it worked.

    [​IMG]


    Would have been nice to have had a note included stating that there may be a problem with the gauges, but here is the fix if it does play up.

    Bit pissed off that I paid over 100 bucks including the overseas shipping to get new gauges thinking the originals in the speedo assembly were cactus.:n:
     
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  15. Mar 24, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    Not a lot of progress in the last week.

    I am at a stage where I think I can start to pull the beastie apart to get all the painting done, but I am spending a lot of time just standing there looking and thinking if there is anything else that I should do first.

    Did install the shocks, but first I discovered that while I had purchased shocks to suit the rear being a standard height, the front shocks were supposed to be for a 1 -2 inch lift.

    I haven't done a lift at all. So the shock is at least 2 inches too long for the compressed mounting points distance which is not a good thing.

    So had to decide if I buy 2 new shocks to suit the shorter distance between the mount pins, or make a shock tower to raise the mount to better suit the shocky.

    Decided to raise it.
    This way I can use the shocks and it will look all right with longer shocks in the front wheel well.
    Cut off the top mount and installed a 4 inch high piece of rectangular hollow between the mount and the chassis.
    [​IMG]

    Had to get creative on the other side because the steering shaft is above the original mount, so that has a cut out for the shaft to pass through and a bolted plate to stiffen the RHS up again.
     
  16. Mar 24, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    Then did little odds and sods while thinking about anything else to do.

    Made up a set of new rear shackles so it lifts the rear around 1 1/4 inch.

    This is because the beastie seemed to have a slight rear droop and in future with a load of hunting and camping gear I don't want it to be worse.
    [​IMG]


    Then made up the side and corner "handles" ?? Is that what they are called?

    Did these so I could clamp the mounting plates to the body for the rear corner pair, then weld the plates to the pipe.
    Much easier to do that than to try to set up the plates on the pipe and get everything sitting on the body flush and neat.

    The front set are easy, just set them up on a flat bench and it is sweet.

    Couldn't do that if there was paint on the body.

    Made them with threaded backing plates.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  17. Mar 24, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    I have a to do list, so if there is anything else that I should do prior to tear down and painting that anyone can think of then speak now or forever hold your tongue.:lol:

    Final thing I need to do before removing body;
    Set up a washer bottle in the engine bay and install washer spray nozzles on the bonnet.

    Once the body comes off I can make;
    Bash plates under the gear box and under the engine front section.
    Rear bar and tyre rack, (need to weld nuts to inside of chassis)


    These items I plan to do after paint is completed as part of the final assembly.
    Wiring
    Roll bar
    Centre console
    Wheel arch flares
    Intake for the air filter.
    Cover for the wiper motor and cover for the mechanism inside the screen
    Get glass installed
    Make the wiper arms.
    Mudflaps

    ??

    Any other minor things can be done after painting, but I think the major parts are either done or can be accomplished once paint goes on.
     
  18. Mar 25, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    Knocked up the washer reservoir today.
    Waiting on the spray nozzles to come in the post.
    [​IMG]

    Was puzzling about what to use as a filler cap for it and realized I had an old alloy body torch (flash light) that was wrecked when the batteries leaked inside it, so it donated the screw cap.

    [​IMG]

    Drilled a hole in the top of the screw top to put a bolt through for a lanyard so it doesn't get lost or forgotten, plus it act as a vent for the tank as well.
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2018
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  19. Mar 25, 2018
    Oldriginal86

    Oldriginal86 Member

    Pasadena, Md.
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2014
    Messages:
    589
    That’s a heavy duty reservoir. Comments about your to do list, believe the roll bar should be fabricated and fitted before the body is painted. There will be a lot of fitting and moving piping around fresh paint that is easily scratched. My two cents. Keep the updates coming. Waiting to hear how this thing does on the road.
     
  20. Mar 25, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    I think you are right about doing the roll bar before paint.

    It will be easier. I am starting to remember the CJ5 bar and how careful I needed to be fitting that.
     
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