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CJ3B Beastie

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by browncoat, Apr 15, 2017.

  1. Mar 5, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    Yep, it's not as per original, but as long as the hole is filled.(y)

    Put skin on the bonnet today.
    I was originally going to use the 2.5mm sheet on the bonnet but changed mind and went with a 1.6mm thick sheet instead.

    The reasons being, pros, easier to form the corners here at home, lighter weight.
    cons, tougher to weld to the frame work without it all distorting too badly.

    The process I used to bend the corners in detail in case anyone finds it useful.
    [​IMG]
    Marked the distance from the rear frame to where the sheet should end relative to the framework, clamped it and drilled the mounting holes.
    Then clamp an angle and start to pull the sheet around the corner, moving clamps and angle bar out as the curve stayed put.
    The bar prevents the sheet from "bellying" out when you're pulling the curve in to it.

    [​IMG]

    But the set wont stay in the sheet because it needs to be bent / pressed a little past it's final shape for it to take properly and using the frame as a guide prevents that.
    So remove from the frame and flip over to gently overpress the bend til the parts are at 90*.
    [​IMG]

    Then weld to the frame.
    I ended up with very noticeable areas where the sheet sucked in at the welds.
    (see cons above)
    Using a rounded dolly bar you can hammer them out somewhat by pushing the weld out with the dolly and hammer.
    Still have to finish it off to make it spiffy tomorrow.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2018
    Muzikp, Fly Navy, 47v6 and 1 other person like this.
  2. Mar 5, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    The sheet was left longer on each side to allow for final trimming after the skin is attached to the frame.
    Once you know for certain how far below the frame ends that the sheet needs to be, it can be cut off.
    I left a little tapering flange extra piece which was bent over between clamped angle bars to form a bottom lip.
    This stiffens the lower edge and allows us to straighten the bottom edge.

    Not sure how the factory did it, I haven't seen any pics of that area in detail.

    [​IMG]
    Now I could have made the frame so it finished down at the guard level and that would have kept the lower sheet straight.

    But I made the battery tray and the power steer reservoir mount on the top of the guards and there is no room for the 25mm square bar to fit past them down at the guard level.
    Plus, I needed to clear the air intake pipe as well so decided to lift the side frame bars halfway up the sides and turn up a little lip instead.


    So there is still a little trimming of the rear to be done and the curve on the right side is not as good as I would like but once the trimming and final positioning is done I will see if I can do anything about that.

    Here's the cutout being worked on to get over the air intake tube.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2018
    Muzikp, ITLKSEZ, Bowbender and 3 others like this.
  3. Mar 5, 2018
    baldjosh

    baldjosh Member

    pacific north west
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2017
    Messages:
    451
    that looks super!!! love, love, love watching your progress!!! (also pretty jealous of your mad skills:beer:)
     
  4. Mar 6, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    It's turned out ok.
    Got the cutout for the air pipe flanged.
    [​IMG]

    Then looked at the front edge turn back which could have been a disaster but behaved it self nice.
    Started with clamps in place to bend the front edge to 90*, then remove the clamps and continue forming past 90*.

    Straight bars to do the straight ish edges and then used a curved block to work the rounded corners.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Mar 6, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    In the end the front edge came out better than I expected it would.
    [​IMG]




    Had a crack at putting a little filler metal into the sunken skin on the outside but the heat sink effect of the weld below mean't too much heat was needed and it would have been a bad move to keep doing it.

    Did 2 spots and the sheet started to distort in a big way, so I let it be and just panel beat and smoothed out the skin as best I could.
    [​IMG]

    After trying to fix the skin with the 2 fill welds the middle of the panel decided to start to pop up and down so added another brace bar underneath to eliminate that.
    [​IMG]
     
    Danefraz, ITLKSEZ, Muzikp and 3 others like this.
  6. Mar 6, 2018
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Emerson, IA
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2014
    Messages:
    361
    Outstanding job!
     
  7. Mar 6, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Messages:
    5,798
    Stock hoods are just sheet metal with a couple bends. Yours is actually a structure. Looks great.
     
  8. Mar 6, 2018
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2016
    Messages:
    1,450
    I can't picture how you flanged the cutout on the hood. That's super cool.
     
  9. Mar 6, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    Just welded a narrow piece of flat bar to the skin that faces inward.

    Didn't need it for strength, more to provide a nicer look and finish to the job.

    I am thinking of putting a foam block or something around the air inlet pipe to seal it a bit better but that can happen later if it needs to be done.
    Did the CJ5 /M38 with the hood cut out have anything like that?

    The bonnet has turned out to be a very solid bit of gear.
    Could easily support my weight if I wanted to sit on it to get at the winch if I end up stuck in a bog and didn't want to get in the muck.
    No twist or flex when being raised, and very light in weight so all round I'm pleased with it despite the small surface imperfections on the outside of the skin from the welding.

    On to the windscreen frame next.(y)
     
    47v6 and ITLKSEZ like this.
  10. Mar 6, 2018
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2015
    Messages:
    6,656
    Nice work.

    The parts you're making... are you making them because you're improving the original design? Or because you don't have them to start with?
     
  11. Mar 6, 2018
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2016
    Messages:
    1,450
    Ooohhh, well duh. I knew that.
     
  12. Mar 6, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    I am making the parts predominately because I don't have them, and they are either extremely difficult to find here as second hand items or relatively expensive if I wanted to buy the Philippines made new manufacture reproductions from the importer in in Australia.

    Figure I have the tools and the ability to make them maybe a little better designed or quality, so the time I spend is my own in between real work.
     
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  13. Mar 6, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
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    410
    Hoping for another dimension if anyone with access to a 3B windshield frame is about.

    Need the height of the frame from the top down to the corner of the body cowl.

    I can guesstimate the width OK because it has to fit the body but the height is a mystery to me.

    Based on the CJ5 screen frame height above the floor level I reckon it would be close to 22.5 inches if they kept similar design style??
     
  14. Mar 6, 2018
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2015
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    6,656
    If nobody beats me to it, I'll grab it after I get dinner in the oven....
     
  15. Mar 6, 2018
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2015
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    6,656
    Ok. I tried my best, but it's a hard thing to measure. I found something out that I'd never realized before. The top arch of the windshield almost exactly follows the top arch of the cowl.

    I hope you can piece together what you need out of these... If you need any more, let me know.

    The angle of the windshield arm is 19° off vertical.

    [​IMG]

    Minus the cowl seal, the height of the frame is approximately 22" to the top front edge.

    [​IMG]

    Here, the tape is hooked on the lip of the sheetmetalthat covers the face of the frame:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Mar 6, 2018
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2015
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    6,656
    I'm sure you probably don't need any ideas on making the arms, but here's how I tackled the ones on my project:

    Varg In Jeep's Clothing

    I think I still have the templates; I could scan them and post them for you since you don't have a frame to pull templates off of. Maybe a scaled printout would help? :shrug:
     
  17. Mar 6, 2018
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2015
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    6,656
    Sorry, I just realized I should have grabbed my metric tape. :oops:
     
  18. Mar 6, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    That's OK, I have already made a start on the hinge point and lower part of the frame while you were getting the height dimension for me but I appreciate the offer. :beer:
    Thanks for those pics, you're a top bloke, I don't care what everyone else says about you.:rofl:

    I am used to switching between metric and imperial measurements 22" = 558.8mm so I was reasonably close with 22.5" that I had guessed.
    Most blokes down here over the age of 70, like my dad, still talk in feet and inches because they grew up with imperial and Australia didn't change over till 1970.
    So I got used to both systems while growing up and doing my trade.


    Your beautiful effort on the lower arms you made are going to put mine to shame.

    My frame will be from 38mm x 25mm x 1.6mm rectangular tube.

    Sadly my little bender won't cope with that so I am going to make any part that was originally a curve into angle joins for a bit more of an aggressive look, hopefully.

    Will put some pics on here in a few hours once I make some progress.

    Cheers, I owe you another one.
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  19. Mar 7, 2018
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2015
    Messages:
    6,656
    That's ok, it's probably all true! :bananatool:

    Glad I could help. I don't have the opportunity to work on mine right now, so I'm living vicariously through your build.

    I think the angles on the arms will compliment the fenders. It'll tie in nicely. Carry on!
     
  20. Mar 7, 2018
    browncoat

    browncoat Member

    Maitland Australia
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2016
    Messages:
    410
    While I remember I did a little finishing touch on the bonnet.
    Added some threaded stool / furniture end caps to the front square hollows.
    [​IMG]

    Turned the head down on some bolts and slipped on a rubber stopper, trim the excess to make it fit.

    Now the bonnet has a positive stop at the front so it wont rely on the stick on rubber going in later.
    [​IMG]
     
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