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Buying a cj5, What should I look out for?

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Lost, Apr 26, 2007.

  1. Apr 26, 2007
    Lost

    Lost New Member

    South Florida
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    Apr 20, 2007
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    34
    Hi,
    I am going to go look at a early-mid 70's cj5 in a week or two to buy. From a picture that I was sent a while back, the jeep looks like it is in really good condition. The only specs I know is that it has a 360 and I'm almost positive that it has a dana20 T-case. The seller says that it is in road worthy condition and the only bad thing about it is a small amount of rust on the windshield frame between the windshield wipers. Is their anything to look out for in these jeeps? Anything that I should stay away from? What are the common rust spots? Also, what are the different axles that came under these?
    Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance,
    -Matt
     
  2. Apr 27, 2007
    coby61

    coby61 Stupidiotic Member

    Prunedale CA
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2004
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    388
    Rust spots will be floors, seams, corners, hat channel, or any place that can hold moisture.
    Axles 72-75 will be D30 front and D44 rear. 76-82 will have D30 Front and AMC 20 rear.
    Take a Digital camera along and take pics of anything you question. Then post them up here for advice. :)
     
  3. Apr 27, 2007
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Basically, condition and completeness. Accessories should not add a lot to the price unless you really want them. Some (most?) mods probably detract from the price, not add to it - I would pass on any Jeep that's been radically changed unless you really understand what's involved. There were big changes for the '72, '76 and '80 model years, so it would help to narrow down the actual model year.

    Re rust in the body, the floors and floor supports (hat channels) go first, but they are fairly easy to repair. The rest of the body - it just depends on what you're willing/capable of doing, and the price.

    Check the frame carefully. Before '76, frame cracks are a common problem. From '76 on, the frame was boxed, and they rust badly.

    You need some background info. There's a spotters guide here http://www.earlycj5.com/tech/general/spottersGuide.php and look at the other articles from the ECJ5 tech library. Jeeptech http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/ can help ID your axles and other components. If there are specific factory options that you want (V8, 4-speed, power steering) that might influence your decision.

    Oh yeah, and Welcome from Boston!
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2007
  4. Apr 27, 2007
    Lost

    Lost New Member

    South Florida
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2007
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    34


    Thanks for the fast response :)
    I talked to the owner and found out that it is a 73'.

    How many splines do these d44 axles have?

    What are hat channels? Is that those "line indents" on the floor?

    What are some common spots that these frames crack?

    I'm not picky at all when it comes to the options a jeep or truck has, my only requirements are thats it has a manual transmission, that it has at least a 6cyl, and power steering is a plus but it probably wouldn't make or break my decision.

    The only "con" that I can see so far is that it doesn't have a tailgate. I remember reading somewhere that they did that to make them "look" more "sporty" or something, is that true?

    Also, it looks very stock and has some vintage/antique/?? plates. And he is asking 3,100.

    Thanks for the welcome, I'm down here in South Florida. I plan to take a bunch of pictures and I'll post them here to see if its a good deal.


    Thanks again!,
    -Matt

    :flag:
     
  5. Apr 28, 2007
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    Jul 30, 2003
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    8,517
    cleaned up some of the duplicate posts
    the axles should be 30 spline
    the hat channels are for the body mounts
    check for cracks around the spring hangars, both hangars on each spring
     
  6. Apr 28, 2007
    halflifesw

    halflifesw A-10 Crew Chief

    Connecticut
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    Jun 14, 2006
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    make sure its not hacked up
     
  7. Apr 29, 2007
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    The solid back panel was optional from the factory in 1973. I've had both solid and tailgate, and prefer solid. Makes for easier spare tire mounting. I don't think the tailgate is that functional on a CJ-5, but if you want to haul bags of cement or such, a tailgate would be preferable.

    On any CJ (esp. pre-76) , look for cracks around the spring hangers. A '73 can also crack where the front crossmember meets the frame rails (inside to out, from the inside corner). I've heard of cracking from the bottom up behind the front spring hangers, but that's kind of the same as checking the spring hangers.
     
  8. Apr 29, 2007
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
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    I agree with timgr, I prefer no tailgate. Easier for mounting things to like a spare tire or high lift jack.

    Obviously put it in 4 wheel drive high and low and run through all the gears, forward and reverse. The Jeep is over 30 years old so, for me rust is not a deal killer. That's usually just a part of owning an old Jeep.
     
  9. Apr 30, 2007
    pathkiller

    pathkiller Member

    Lorton, VA
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    Apr 17, 2005
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    878
    Verify the engine size by looking for a number stamped on the block under the motor mount. The displacement (eg. 304, 360, 401) will be embossed on the block in fairly big and easy to read letters. Make sure he's not trying to pass off a 304 as a 360.
     
  10. Apr 30, 2007
    Avacado Mist CJ5

    Avacado Mist CJ5 Sucker for a CJ

    Grand Haven,...
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    Feb 20, 2007
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    Now wait a cotton pickin minute...tailgates are cooool

    Nothing like the look of a CJ's backside with the chains-a-daingling!

    :)
     
  11. Apr 30, 2007
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    That's a good tip, but I expect it's really a 360. There are many, many used 360s out there compared to 304s, and it's a direct replacement. An original 304 should be more desirable than a 360...

    However, if they claimed that it's a 401... then you must verify by the block casting numbers.
     
  12. Apr 30, 2007
    $ sink

    $ sink Gazillians of posts

    Virginia Bch
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    ... your wallet.
     
  13. May 9, 2007
    Lost

    Lost New Member

    South Florida
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    Thanks for all of the advice :beer:

    I've had to hold off going to see it but I'm going to go look at it at the end of this month.
    I called him and he told me all of this:
    -it originally had a 4cyl and he had a 360 swapped in.
    -It has a 3speed manual,and he's not sure what t-case and axles it has but from the info. that I've gotten I think it has the dana 20 and d30//44.
    -he said that it was built in 74' :? he told me at first that it was a 73', maybe its just titled as a 73??
    -it has over 100,000 miles and he says that it runs good and 4hi/4lo work well.
    -it has some rust in a few spots by the body seams, he said its nothing major tho.

    Is that 3-speed desirable or undesirable?
    and is there any other advice that you all could give me with that info?
    I'm going to make sure to take a bunch of pictures and I'll post them here for more advice.

    Thanks again,
    -Matt
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2009
  14. May 9, 2007
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Well, there was no 4 cylinder offered in the domestic civilian Jeeps in '73 or '74 - just an inline 6 or the 304 V8.

    If it was built in '74, it could be a '74 or '75 model, but not a '73. However, if it was built and first registerd in 1973, it could be a '74 model.

    If it's the original T-14 3-speed that came with the inline 6s (232 or 258), I don't think it's strong enough for a 360. If it were originally the V8, then it would be a T-15 3-speed and that's ok with a 360. What's the VIN? The owner should be able and willing to tell you that over the phone.
     
  15. May 9, 2007
    Lost

    Lost New Member

    South Florida
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    I forgot, the jeep was brought over to India a long time ago by a friend of his, he bought it and brought it "back" over here. I wasn't on the phone long and I assumed that it was originally from here. I always forget to say stuff that are probably important :rofl:

    I'll call tomorrow to ask for the vin number.

    Thanks again [​IMG] ,
    -Matt
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2007
  16. May 10, 2007
    tango59

    tango59 Member

    Memphis Tn
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    I second anything Tim says (I don't know squat except tailgates rattle like crazy)
     
  17. May 10, 2007
    Doug/Tucson

    Doug/Tucson Member

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    Both of my CJ5s have tailgates, and I find them very convenient. On occasion, for instance. I have been loading transmissions and front axles and having a tailgate makes it very easy. But they do rattle enough to drive me crazy. So most of the time. I have them bolted shut, and I keep the chains in the toolbox. I think a tailgate is a must have.
    Doug/Tucson
     
  18. Jun 4, 2007
    Lost

    Lost New Member

    South Florida
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    Apr 20, 2007
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    UPDATE! :beer:

    Hi,
    I just got the vin number through e-mail and I have some new pictures to post. He says that he's leaving for business for several weeks on the 6th so if I'm going to buy it we should make a deal before then. I'm going to see if I can go test drive it tomorrow.


    I'm uploading the pictures now.

    Thanks again,

    -Matt
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2012
  19. Jun 4, 2007
    Lost

    Lost New Member

    South Florida
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    Apr 20, 2007
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    And here's the pictures :beer:


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  20. Jun 4, 2007
    Brieoff

    Brieoff Member

    TX
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    Jun 7, 2006
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    310
    Thats a nice looking jeep.
     
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