Building Tie Rods

I'm looking to build some new tie rods for my 1969 CJ5. I planned to buy 1" OD 5/8" ID DOM tubing and tap with 11/16-18LH/RH for the tie rod ends. My question is what tie rods is everyone using? I had planned to use the AA tie rod ends but I would also like to do tie rod flip so maybe I should do a different type of tie rod? I was going to buy the adapters for the knuckles that I've seen members here use before but maybe theres a better way or just some overall advice? I would appreciate any help on this guys. My CJ5 has a saginaw power steering conversion using the AA bracket and pitman arm. Still factory D27 and knuckles up front.

 

I used 1.375" OD x 0.375" Wall x 0.625" ID Mild Steel Round Tube A513-Type 5 DOM
bought .5" TPF 7 DEGREE GM CHEVY 1 TON TIE ROD TAPER REAMER to ream the knuckles for the flip.
Moog ES2010 L and ES2010R.
This is for a D30 with saginaw swap

Drag link I used the same DOM and Moog ES2027L and ES 2026R

The drag link end and TRE touch on the steering Knuckle. I had to kiss both the TRE and DLE on the knuckle with a flap disk for clearance. I could have used the TRE with the provision for a DLE and this one should work with your D27. Could be wrong though so do your research.

I chucked up the DOM in my lathe to drill it to accept the 7/8-18 tap.

 

Advantage of tie rod flip?

 

Keep in mind I run this on a Dana 30, 2 hole knuckle. I did it because:
1. In the original configuration they sit a bit low...this is a considerable increase in ground clearance for the tie rod & drag link. Gets them higher off the ground, away from rocks etc.
2. It allowed me to run a straight/normal (non-drop) Jeep pitman arm with a Saginaw ps box and a spring lift.
3. It places the rod high enough that even with larger diameter DOM tube, it will clear a nodular iron diff cover because it crosses that plane where the cover curves towards the top of the diff.
4. DOM tubing and 1 ton TREs are considerably stronger than the stock rods