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build your own full float dana 44?

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by 47v6, Jan 6, 2015.

  1. Mar 16, 2015
    47v6

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    I got a package from Moser today
    [​IMG]
    Moser cut the splines on the axles I machined. I sent them a D30 outer shaft to use as a reference. They fit the splines in the lockout hub like they should.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Mar 16, 2015
    47v6

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    have a bit of an issue
    [​IMG]
    as you can see, the splines are cut pretty long, longer than the reference shaft I sent to moser. This allows the shaft to walk into the locking hub, into the cavity, where the selector and wave spring is housed.

    When the circlip is placed in the groove I had them cut, the shaft is just about perfect in the spider side gear.
    [​IMG]

    my solutions to this could be to cut a piece of aluminum and use it as a spacer in the locking hub or weld a stop in the newly cut splines or what i will most likely do is cut another groove on the shaft inside of the locking hub drive gear and put a cir clip in place to stop this outward movement.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2015
  3. Mar 16, 2015
    millennium falcon

    millennium falcon Member

    Central PA
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    It looks great! Bummer about the longer splines. Just think of it as another lesson in problem solving. :) it looks like it's all coming together now.. I can't remember if you already discussed this, but...what brakes are you going to run on this axle?
     
  4. Mar 16, 2015
    47v6

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    I think I can fix the issue of the axle walking out. I bet someone else has done this and maybe they will speak up. I think I'm going to use the GM disk brakes I already have on my present tapered D44. They don't have a parking brake, but it might be a whole lot of effort for me to run those eldorado calipers to have a real parking brake. I would have to fabricate a bracket, get disks that are 1", fab up an emergency brake lever and cables or I could just work with the transfer case one that i already have. On thing I have thought of is the fact that when the back shafts are in the unlocked position the driveshaft mounted parking brake will be useless. I am going to think about this.
     
  5. Mar 16, 2015
    47v6

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    This is the axle with the outer circlip ,that you can't see, in the same position as the D30 outer. That may not be at all required, but a groove will need to be cut at the back of the locking hub assembly on the splined section of axle behind the drive gear to keep the axle from walking out into the locking hub and wrecking side gears, locking hub and probably the axle.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Mar 23, 2015
    47v6

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  7. Mar 23, 2015
    47v6

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    I set up the shaft in my lathe to cut the grove
    [​IMG]
    I cut it, but not without issue. My HSS cutoff tool was not up to the task, so I had to improvise with a carbide insert. Works and is the same OD at the bottom of the groove as the one cut by moser.
    [​IMG]
    The axle, installed in the side gear, against the cross shaft and through the spindle, this is the clearance between the cir clip and the spindle. I have been told that it would not be good to allow contact between the circip and the spindle end for bad times. The outer groove will accept the cir clip and keep the axle form moving at all in or out. Its a little tight, so I want to cut the groove a little wider to allow for thermal expansion.
    [​IMG]
    If my written directions were followed or I was called, texted or emailed with questions, I would not be doing this now. I shipped with the axles a D30 outer axle to them to use as reference and explicitly said in writing to replicate that part, splines and groove. Oh well.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2015
  8. Mar 24, 2015
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    I'd be a little peeved. Where would you be if didn't have your own lathe and skills to do what you're doing? Something that, apparently, should not have needed to be done. Think I'd be a making a phone call.
     
  9. Mar 24, 2015
    47v6

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    First off, thanks for looking at and contributing to this thread. Secondly, this is a normal outcome whenever I get anyone to do anything for me. I either am not clear enough, don't find the right people or maybe those people are incompetent. I don't know.

    What I do know is that people pay good money to have splines made LONGER on custom axles so they can cut some off. I am pretty sure Moser doesn't get too many axle shafts with this spec a year ,if any. I could call and complain, but I would still wind up doing this work anyway and I'm not really all that POed. I expect something to be lost in translation.

    For me, the bottom line is that the splines ,with the exception of length, are cut PERFECTLY. The shafts were packed very well for shipping and they did a good job otherwise. I would still wholeheartedly recommend Moser for this work. I now know how to more correctly articulate my needs.

    In so much as my skills, they are developing right here in front of your eyes. If i didn't want to learn how to do this or didn't have the tools, i would just buy a whole set from Herm or R&P. It really is a bolt on modification for the most part that i have done as difficultly as possible. been pretty cool. Have learned a great deal and still know just a little bit.
     
  10. Mar 24, 2015
    47v6

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    I put the shaft back in the lathe to cut the groove a bit wider and give me a couple thousandths clearance between the drive gear of the locking hub between the 2 cir clips today.
    [​IMG]

    the shaft now cannot move in or out and is located by the drive gear in the locking hub. It does have a couple thousandths clearance, but I cannot know if this will be enough under axle flex and thermal expansion/contraction. The real problem would be if the inner cir clip failed and allowed the axle to walk out into the locking hub housing. The splines are not so long that it could fully escape, but it could cause damage under power to the inner shaft and the side gear. Maybe I am over thinking this?

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Mar 24, 2015
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

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    yes maybe
    My full float shafts had no clips anywhere on them, no grooves either.
    Remove the locking hub and pull the shaft out.
    Never had axle "walk" out or destroy anything in 20 plus years of use.
     
  12. Mar 24, 2015
    47v6

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    I was referring to the thermal expansion/contraction and flex of the housing as it relates to the lateral forces that *may* be subjected to to the retaining/snap rings I have installed.

    my axle shafts will walk out until there is 1/4~3/8 of an inch still left in the side gear. This is clearly NOT enough shaft meshing with the side gear. I am sure your axles don't have an inboard retaining ring as I have installed in mine because your splines were cut short enough to stop the entire axle from sliding out through the drive gear into the locking hub. If mine were cut to the length specified I would not have this issue. I have never seen in person a full floating axle assembly, let alone taken one apart so I cannot comment on other designs.
     
  13. Mar 24, 2015
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

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    Oh that's right.
    You're splines are too long .
    Gotta do what you gotta do.
     
  14. Mar 25, 2015
    Mike C

    Mike C Member

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    Yours (or any with rear hubs) are more of a "full floater" than what is traditionally thought of as one (3/4 and one ton truck axles) because they technically have a flanged axle which then bolts to the hub. So this is unique to rears with hubs and fronts which float, but they have different style limiters.
     
  15. Mar 25, 2015
    47v6

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    I guess I need to clarify that statement, I have never seen a D44 Jeep full float assembly similar to this. I have seen and taken apart ones on trucks that have the bolted on flange, but never a conversion like this.
     
  16. Apr 16, 2015
    47v6

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    haven't given up yet. Its almost done. I was going to set up gears on an open differential and just had to stop. All this effort for an open differential? Just waiting on figuring out how I am going to get a power lok for this setup and who I am going to buy it from. My axle tubes have rust inside on the top, so i cleaned out the scaly stuff. Made that extendo job for the wire wheel. worked pretty good for a single job.
    [​IMG]

    I am looking to BUY a new set of 2.5 inch wide spring perches to replace the existing ones. Problem is, they are made for 2.75 OD axle tubes and not the 2.5 OD axle tube this axle has. I have made everything else, but for 25 bucks it would be nice to just have a pair arrive.
     
  17. Apr 17, 2015
    millennium falcon

    millennium falcon Member

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    Im glad to see you dumped all that water out of your housing and put it in the wheelbarrow. :) that probably why you had rust in your tubes! lol
     
  18. Apr 17, 2015
    47v6

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    Its a good thing my mouth was not full of food or drink because it would have been all over my computer!:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
     
  19. Apr 24, 2015
    47v6

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    Look what showed up today. What should I do with it?
    [​IMG]

    Naked tubes
    [​IMG]

    Too much angle? Its slightly more than the 7 or so degree shims that came with the 4" YJ lift kit. I don't have a degree finder and I don't think its all that critical. What say you?
    [​IMG]
     
  20. Apr 24, 2015
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

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    Critical?................that's up to you , but since you have the ability with the spring hangers already off to do it correctly right now.............Why Not? $10.00 bucks for a cheap angle finder.........You'll have to mock that housing up in your vehicle at ride height and measure everything and then tack on your hangers..........take it off and weld a little on each side at a time not putting to much heat in one spot.
    http://www.4xshaft.com/JR7_TW_Driveshaft.pdf.
     
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