build your own full float dana 44?

Just ordered Warn lockout hubs Part # W9062 from west coast off road. 138 bucks and 10 bucks for shipping. They were the cheapest I could find. Other sites wanted as much as 304.00

 

I finished cutting the OD of the short side axle shaft to fit in the spindle.

As you can see the shaft is quite a bit too long. The shaft is also either slightly bent or the center was drilled offset very slightly. With my dial indicator it shows .004 runout where the cut ends. This could be operator error on my part setting this up, but I didn't have trouble on the other side.

 

Next step is to start the process of replicating the D30 axle shaft end to fit in the locking hub.

The OD of the chevy shaft will need to be cut to the OD of the splines on the D30 shaft. It will also need to be cut to the correct length.The above pic shows the spline area stickout past the spindle.

this is the concept I need to think about next
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jW7M_tp6jzw

 

This IS NOT my pic, but I can do this maybe.

 

I could retrofit an ancient power hacksaw to do that... no. maybe get a horizontal milling machine... no. no more space. I saw a shaper go for like 300 bucks a couple years ago on C/L. no more space. I do have carbide inserts that are THE SAME profile as the splines on the d30 end that are for my boring bar. I am going to make that tool pictured above, but a little less crude, maybe. I could buy an R8 tool that holds 3 carbide inserts, but if I spend money I could just send them out. I am going to try and make my own 27 splines on my bridgeport clone. I am learning a ridiculous amount. stay tuned to watch my head asplode.

 

I have a question for you guys- this will no doubt show my ignorance in these matters...

My eventual plan is to head in Metcalf's direction and get Dutchman to make me a couple of flanged axles when I do the full floater on my offset 2 piece 44. I like that look and don't need locking hubs on the back. Anytime I want to tow, I'll just pull out the axles and put the 10 spline drive flanges off the Dana 25 on as dummies. My original jeep- a 45 CJ2A had the Dana 23-2 rear axle and that's how I towed it- just pulled the axles.

If 47v6 wanted to do the same- go with flanged axle shafts (ie, splined only on the inboard end)- could he simply cut off the axle shaft at the proper length and somehow weld the shaft on to a cap/flange, then drill the 6 holes and bolt it to the hub? Would Dutchman do it any differently? If that would work, seems like you'd be overcoming the need for making any splines. True, you wouldn't have the locking hubs on the 44, but maybe you could live with that.

I picture drilling a slight press fit hole in the flange, maybe beveling it to increase the weld area on both sides. Pass the axle shaft through and weld. Then place the complete shaft on a machine and true it all up.


How would a custom axle builder do it for a flanged axle shaft?

 

You start with a flanged axle forging then machine to needs. Welding on axleshaft = failure.

 

You were on the fence for a bit on whether to go 10 spline or 19. I did 10 spline for my BIL several years ago just using an end mill. Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos, but I still have the aluminum test part I made and can take a photo tonight if you're interested.

I have thought about doing 19 spline but have not actually done it yet. My approach would likely be to use some type of gear cutter as shown here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5MoaXLYTdU

Haven't watched all of this yet, but noticed it in the margin when looking at the above video. This setup is very similar to how I cut the 10 spline (indexing head, etc), only I used an end mill instead. Also, the long axle was longer than my mill table so I had to extend my mill table. I used a 1 inch thick piece of aluminum that was about 6 or 8 inches wide.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTOSgI2bgxk

Edit: Found some photos of the aluminum test part. End mill used was 3/16" diameter.

 

I really liked changing to drive flanges for my FF as compared to the lockouts. The behavior is more consistent and predictable, especially with the Detroit out back.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cV80cUWVi0

 

This is exactly what i was going to do until i finally decided to buy new lockout hubs today. I looked at some youtube videos and saw what guys were doing with one carbide index tooth in a holder, looked at my pile of tooling and realized that i can do that too. It might not work... I might wreck it. either way I and by extention all you might learn something and be entertained too. I guess i should try and make a test one first before just diving in. I also do not have a dividing head or a horizontal table. I'm going to have to make something up. it'll be ghetto and maybe cool.

 

thats what made me decide to do the 27 spline thing. If it works there, it will work with me doing it, maybe...

 

I have a "spindex" for my mill. It was pretty cheap from enco but it works.....I'm not sure that it would go big enough for your axles but I'm sure they make one that can hold larger material. I made some splined rear set footpegs for my old motorcycle and it was slick.

 

I have the carbide inserts that fit the profile of the D30 spines perfect. I just need to make a holder and chuck it up in a r8 collet. probably going to use the thickest piece of tool steel i have kicking around or repurpose one I have. I have a bunch of homade tooling that came in boxes that I bought, so I have some things I can copy or just plain reuse. i saw a holder that uses 3 carbide bits that cuts splines on a bridgeport. I can't find one for sale. It looks like an indexable flycutter, which i have, but the bits stick point out, not down. thats the tool.

 

I'm just waiting for a vern-o-lock to appear.

 

i got this great idea using a lever to push the axle shaft all the way through the spider gears........

 

Do you have a way to Index the axle between cuts? Most use a Horizontal / vertical Index fixture that looks like this:

http://www.wttool.com/common/images/product/main/19920005.jpg

 

Sounds like the axle disconnect so well known on the front of many newer 4x4's...

 

No Nick, I was making a comment about Dr Verns " Vernolock". I read that he used this concept to lock his rear differential.

I also have zero experience with any 4wd stuff later than 1985 or so.