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build your own full float dana 44?

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by 47v6, Jan 6, 2015.

  1. Jan 22, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    So, basically they set it up like this to cut to length?
    [​IMG]
    I just put this in between centers to see if i could do it. I didn't take an indicator to measure taper, if any. There is a good chance my lathe is not perfect and really the vast majority of machine work i do is within 3 inches of the spindle or chuck or collet. my headstock can accept something like 1.5, so 1.34 is not a problem through my chuck.. my chuck on the other hand needs some help. I have a 4 jaw chuck that I could use and just indicate it in too.

    The only reason I would think about this is if I were to cut the 10 splines on my own. <150 bucks to have someone else do it and have it done right is pretty cheap. How would I go about doing an order for this work to be done? what would i tell the person on the other end of the phone?

    Thanks guys.
     
  2. Jan 22, 2015
    47v6

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    would you reuse these gears?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Jan 22, 2015
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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  4. Jan 31, 2015
    47v6

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    I have seen Metcalfs work on pirate , I think. Its really nice as far as i can see. I am not looking for the ultimate in strength. If I was i might just go with a dana 60 or ford or something. I also want to do this relatively inexpensively. To that end I bought a new/take out case with 30 spline spiders and bearings for 3.92 and up ratio gears on ebay for 50 bucks shipped. I was looking to spend over 800 bucks for a Elocker that I might use twice in a year if i was lucky and then just to see if it worked for no good reason. Thats a lot of money to me.

    50 bucks shipped for a case, spiders and bearings... cheap. A new case is 95 bucks, spiders are 110, plus shipping. Even if i kill the bearing to do setup, its still a great deal.
     
  5. Jan 31, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I also want real emergency brakes, so I decided to give eldorado calipers a try. MORSE CALIPER Part # P4138 at rock auto is 58.79 for the PAIR WITH pads. closeout special. It looks like they will bolt right up to the chevy backing plate I already have for my existing disk brakes and use the same disk. When I get it all together and *if* it works, I will buy Ebrake cables and fab a bracket to use the dash cane or use something else.
    cheap cheap cheap
     
  6. Feb 16, 2015
    47v6

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    I started some of the machine work. Its cold out, so I have no desire to go outside. I know I should use something other than HF calipers. My skills are such that a better instrument or even the correct one will not make my work noticeably better. Remember I am not a machinist, just a guy with a lathe.
    This is the housing I have.
    [​IMG]
    This is the approximate ID of the bearing housing where the backside of the spindle needs to fit into.
    [​IMG]
    This is the back of the D25 spindle. I could use a D30 disk spindle, but the hubs I have are from a drum D30 and they will interchange with the D25.
    [​IMG]
    The back of the D30 spindle is a better made better machined part, but the amount of lip on the backside that protrudes into the axle housing bearing cup recess is the same after you cut it to fit. 10~12 thousandths. The inner bearing area of the D30 is larger in diameter. This would make the spindle stronger after the boring of the 10~12 thousandths that needs to happen to allow the larger axle shaft to ride inside the spindle. I have a budget and some extra parts so these will suffice for now.
    [​IMG]
    Dana 25 on left D30 disk on right
    [​IMG]
    This is the machined D25 spindle.
    [​IMG]
    This is the D25 Spindle in the axle housing. As you can see there are no fasteners and is a light press fit into the bearing cup recess. There is only 10 thousandths of material left protruding into that bearing cup recess, so its more of a locator than a real mechanical fit, but something is better than nothing for sure.
    [​IMG]

    Now I machine the other side. I have no DRO, so its all pretty much cut some, measure, cut some more, measure, ad infinitum. I don't have a lot of faith in my wore out saddle and cross slide. Got like 30 thousandths back lash. I can make stuff with it though.
     
  7. Feb 16, 2015
    millennium falcon

    millennium falcon Member

    Central PA
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    Looking great! I'm subscribed... With the cost of a true full floater kit.... I'm sure many people will be interested, and copy you on this one!
     
  8. Feb 16, 2015
    47v6

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    Yes, they are expensive. They are worth it too. totally worth it. I happen to have a lot of old wore out expensive tools, some old junk parts and some free time in between cleaning up my 2 year olds vomit, doing laundry, stacking fire wood and all the other things to keep me from being bored. I actually have a job too... Cant stand being bored. can't sit still. Gotta prepare for the snow thats coming tonight too. This is already a fun project and I have just begun. I might machine all the parts to make it fit and them buy some disk brake hubs and do it all over again with the D30 disk brake spindles. I am still toying with the idea of cutting 10 splines in my axle shafts to work with my 10 spline lockout hubs or drive hubs. Saying that i guess i should duck!;)
     
  9. Feb 16, 2015
    millennium falcon

    millennium falcon Member

    Central PA
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    Your life sounds strangely similar to mine at the moment. Even the vomit and the snow. Haha. Can you post a picture and some info on your jeep so we know what this is going into? -MF
     
  10. Feb 16, 2015
    47v6

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    This is my jeep.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I got a lot of the parts from a guy who posted an add on CL. Free Willys it said. I replied, hauled azz up there and got 1 complete cj2a, one cj2a tub, one cj3b frame and piles of parts. All of it was pretty much garbage. I browse CL looking for parts. I travel for work and used to always drive, so I would check CL in the areas I was passing through. This is how i source parts. My jeeps frame was wasted so i didnt care about cutting it up. I lengthened it a foot, fishplated and strapped top and bottom, put it on wrangler 4 lift springs, rebuilt a D30, installed new saginaw, tilt steering from a cherokee, Pieced the body together, installed a SM420 with Novak adapter, made my wiring harness, Ignition, charging, brake light s and turn signals, disk brake conversion all 4 corners, made my own driveshafts out of old ones and some DOM, rebuilt the buick 225 in my basement , hand lapped the valves... paint and body work, put an offenhauser 4 bbl and holley carb on it... HEI conversion. Its all pretty average stuff really. There are lots of guys here that have done all this and much nicer too. Some of my work is fair or poor, some is pretty good. Of all the parts I have, none of them have ever worked together. It takes some doing to make it work in unison. It took almost a decade from junk to drive. I haven't spent more than 6 grand in all those years and probably a lot less. Right now this jeep runs and drives better than my first cj2a did ever and my 77 cj5 with a 304 ever did. I think this engine has more power than that 304 too. It sure is the most fun thing I have ever driven.
     
  11. Feb 16, 2015
    millennium falcon

    millennium falcon Member

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    That's AWSOME. Thanks for the write up! It looks like fun. My jeep has taken over 15 years to get where it is. I bet if you lived closer we would have a lot to talk about. I also am a guy with a lathe that likes to make make stuff.
     
  12. Feb 16, 2015
    47v6

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    Thank you.

    Blue steel, no not zoolander...
    [​IMG]
    Carbide inserts make this stuff out of hard steel.

    This spindle was in better shape than the last. The other side was slightly bent. I trued it up. this one was not.
    [​IMG]
    It fits as well as anything I can make. Once again, slight press fit
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Feb 16, 2015
    47v6

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    My 3 jaw chuck isn't big enough to hold the outside of the spindle, so I had to use my 4 jaw chuck. I never have been able to successfully indicate a part in before. Its because I was not patient enough. Today was my patient day. I got the spindle indicated in to within 2 thousandths at the outboard bearing area. I am sure to have more than 2 thousandths deflection on my boring bar in the length of cut, so this is pretty good for me. This is also uncharted area. I have turned a bunch of stuff, probably incorrectly, but mostly got the job done. Boring is something I have done a little of, but not to this length. The live center is in the tailstock just to hold the spindle in place. The part is just resting on the outside housing. If you see some mistakes, point them out. I like to learn.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2015
  14. Feb 16, 2015
    Mike C

    Mike C Member

    Austin, TX
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    Great work, and thanks for documenting. I like to learn too and seeing the machinery in action helps. And no need to make excuses for your work. Jeep looks nice and you got it done. Carry on.
     
  15. Feb 16, 2015
    47v6

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    Thanks. Appreciate it.
     
  16. Feb 17, 2015
    47v6

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    ARRGGGGGGG.. its spinning so faaassstttttttt!!!! Captain! She's breaking up!
    [​IMG]
    I bored out about an 1/8th inch out of the ID of the spindle. My boring bar is not long enough to cut the entire length of the interior, So I will need to turn the spindle around and bore from the other side. Its just about 3/4 of an inch too short. Insert joke here.
    [​IMG]

    I just indicated in the other spindle that wasn't slightly tweaked at the flange side. This one is to .0005 at the same outer area. Im happy with it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2015
  17. Feb 17, 2015
    47v6

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  18. Feb 17, 2015
    wheelie

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    I'm diggin' this Chris. Keep at 'er. Any worry about weakening those spindles from boring them? Just curious 'cause I don't know.
     
  19. Feb 17, 2015
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

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    The spindles seldom bend or break if not jumping or other type of abuse. I wore out the seal surfaces on a set machined the same way with 33" tires and a chassis dyno'd 220 hp V-6. I raced it for a while too. It took around 15 years and they were good used spindles to start with.
     
  20. Feb 18, 2015
    47v6

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    Heck, I don't know. I mean any time you remove material you ARE weakening the part, but when is it too much? These D25 spindles are original to a 46, 47 or 48 2A. One was slightly bent, not enough to notice really. Maybe still in spec for the QC standards. I drove around on it and it was fine. This whole project is just a reason to use my old wore out junk tools to make something out of old junk parts and better teach myself how to machine things. There is also an entertainment quality that i am digging by sharing this info and pics with other like minded individuals. People keep telling me the strength issue is a non issue. I can guarantee that the things I routinely do with this jeep won't break anything, not even wind.

    There are innumerable ways to make an axle stronger, like throw out the dana 44 and get a dana 60 and narrow it or a Ford 9 inch. I am all about repurposing and recycling the old junk I have laying around. Its how I built the entire jeep. Its like a frankenstein of forgotten rusty junkyard stuff no one wanted that somehow works together. If i go with the open differential and not a locker, and use all the junk I have laying around I will have spent ~200 bucks on this. I will probably add 150 bucks or so to get the axles resplined outboard for 27 spline locking hubs Or try my hand at cutting 10 splines to use the left over drive flanges or locking hubs I have sitting in a box.

    I think i have a bit of a jeep problem.
     
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