Brake question - early style

Hi,

I just finish re-packing and adjusting my front wheel bearing (PO obviously didn't have the big socket - what a mess) and I notice that I had twice as much brake dust on the left side than on the right side. The jeep pulls a little when I brake hard... so I assume the brakes are not adjusted properly. I looked in my service manual for my CJ5 and they describe a self-adjuster with the star wheel. The picture in the manual shows two medium size springs on the top at a 30 degree angle and this is completely different than what I have.

On my jeep - I have single long top spring that goes right across from one shoe to the next. At the bottom I have a shorter spring and I don't see a star wheel (unless its hidden). I also have two studs halfway down the brake shoes that protrude out of the backing plate with a lock nut and a skinny flat stud in the middle. Are those things the adjusters? How do you adjust the brakes on these?

The rest of the set-up is in great shape - shoes, cylinders and all the lines front and back were replaced just before I took possession of the jeep about 4,000 miles ago (2 years).

Thanks for the help

 

Howard speaks the truth.

Note that the two adjuster cams are opposed left and right in action on each wheel. In other words the right one tightens clockwise, the left one anti-clockwise, looking at the backing plate from the rear of the wheel, IIRC. I rotate the wheel while adjusting to get the best results.

They work fine when in good condition. The worst thing is when the nuts rust up.

 

Upside down but, here's the inside of the backing plate showing the adjusting cams/eccentrics on each side. You can see how, when they are turned, they push the brake shoes further out toward the drum into adjustment.

 

Thanks Howard for the explanation. I gather it doesn't matter which shoe I do first? I am accustomed to manually adjust my Russian Dnepr drum brakes, although they only had one adjuster for both shoes. The backing plate in the image above look exactly like mine. I'll get the liquid wrench out and start drenching the nuts tomorrow in preparation.

I use the reproduction manual title "1966-1971 service manual . Jeep. Universal series". Under the F-1 General it says... A double safety hydraulic brake system in combination with self adjusting wheel brake units are standard equipment on all current production "jeep" vehicles and this is not the set-up I have - my manual probably cover the late 60-early 70's set-up.

 

Sort of hard to tell but what you are showing in the picture, It may be a Bendix 303117. CJ3B rear axle backing plate.
OK, after looking at some more of your pictures, It is a Bendix 303117 backing plate. Sorry, carry on folks.

 

Yes 303117. And, it actually is not upside down. Doh!

Pierre, sometimes using a little heat helps with those little buggers. I just use a little propane torch. I try not to get stuff real hot (can't with the propane anyhow). The heat along with the penetrating fluid usually breaks things loose. Sometimes have to do a few cycles of heat, fluid, heat, fluid to get it done. Good luck.

 

I'm sure you jest.

Actually, I think they'll work turning any which way, but I think my suggestion follows the factory instructions.


A small wrench (1/4"?) fitted on the stud flats helps a lot to "dial them in", but often the flats been buggered and then I use a Vice-Grip®.

 

I find for these things like brake adjusting especially since I have 2 early jeeps this special "bendix" brake adjusting wrench is a nice investment to adjust these adjusters. I personally couldn't ever get a normal 1/4 wrench to work on the adjusters since it didn't have a deep enough throat like the special wrench does

 

I used to have one of those wrenches many years ago, sort of dissapeared with the rest of my tool box many years ago. I make do with a small vice grip. Also had the correct screwdriver sort of tool to remove the washer piece that that retains the brake shoe retaining springs. That was something 35 years ago, still when I'm working on something I know what tool I need and remember that it is long gone. I hate thieves.

 

Wonder if a 1/4" lathe or gas/torch type wrench would help. They have a the square 1/4" hole in them so you'd be gripping all 4 sides of the bolt. Maybe not long enough? Just a thought. Something similar to this in 1/4" :


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Gas...677?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item234efbcadd

 

Flats look OK so hopefully I won't have too much trouble. Have to go see Mom today - so will likely try tomorrow afternoon.

 

I have drum brakes with the star to adjust the shoes. But all cars from the past had this system like yours to adjust the position of shoes.
You must clean the brakes well, and as said turn the cam to have one shoe touching the drum, then release a litle bit and repeat with other shoes.

That is not perfect of course; if shoes and drums are cleaned, no rust inside the drums, must be a mirror inside, you stop without going too much right or left.
Sometimes, it happens that you stop exactly in line. This is a happy day, burn a candle.