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Brake Line Help - Flair Nut

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Dano50, Feb 12, 2007.

  1. Feb 12, 2007
    Dano50

    Dano50 New Member

    Keno, Oregon
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2006
    Messages:
    38
    Okay, was hoping to get this beast out of the garage this Sunday ('80 CJ):

    Short version...what is the best and easiest way to replace the passenger side brake line flair nut which has been boogered up trying to remove the brake hose for replacement?

    A) can I carefully cut off the brake line "flair", push a new nut on the line and "re-flair"? The old nut has been dremelled off, virtually worthless.

    B) One of the neighbors mentions that the brake line is "Double Flaired"...I may need a special tool to do the job...can this normally be rented, and, is it a job I may do myself?

    C) Should I consider cutting back the line somewhere inside the engine compartment and splicing in a fitting, this would allow me to feed the line through a new nut and not mess with the "belling".

    D) Replace the line all the way back to the junction fitting on the driver's side?

    Long version:

    1) Repacked wheel bearings, torqued hubs

    2) Previously had rotors re-surfaced, looking good... now.

    3) Pulled Brake calipers, looks like I need to rebuild/swap for rebuilt ones...

    4) Undid flexible brake line from drivers side, no problem with the flair (SP?) nut. On my neighbors recomendation, I had bought a flair nut tool (open box wrench thingy).

    Okay, went to the passenger side, sprayed the brass flair nut and hose fitting connection with WD40 several times over the past several days beforehand. Hammer tapped, wiggled and hoped to pre-loosen fittings.

    Even with all the precautions, still completely rounded the flair nut and no budge. Took off the 45 degree hanging bracket, was able to remove the two prong retaining spring holding the hose fitting to the bracket, wiggled and cussed trying to unscrew the fitting from each other (yes, counter clockwise).

    Finally, with a vise grip on the brass fitting and a cheater pipe on the wrench, was able to turn and remove the caliper hose. The brass flair fitting is/was totally boogered up.

    Okay, here is were it gets interesting, the brass fitting is totally messed up, so, being the extremely bright guy I am, dremel tooled the fitting in half...careful not to cut the steel brake line. Brake line is fine, belled end is fine, the nut would not turn even cut in half. It took me some time to finely work the brass fitting so it (almost) spun arround like I suppose it should have...was able to pull the remaining fitting off the brake line.

    What is the fastest, best, easiest and most economical (realizing that all these expressions are never used in conjunction with the word "JEEP"), way to replace this nut?

    You all have been a valuable resource...thanks once again for any input.

    Dan
     
  2. Feb 12, 2007
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    D. Be safe. :coffee: :)
     
  3. Feb 12, 2007
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
    Messages:
    8,513
    I have to agree with Lynn on this.
    There are different repair methods if this were a trail fix.... re-flare the end, install a union, etc etc etc.
    but in the convenience, safety and comfort of your garage, I'd replace the entire line, and look at others as well.
     
  4. Feb 12, 2007
    JeepTherapy

    JeepTherapy Sponsor

    Negaunee, Michigan
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2006
    Messages:
    695
    If the line is still solid just double flair it. I would let you borrow the tools if you were closer. Some of the auto parts stores have a loan program. If the lines are weak I would replace them all....
     
  5. Feb 12, 2007
    Dano50

    Dano50 New Member

    Keno, Oregon
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2006
    Messages:
    38
    It appears that the line is still intact, color is clean, cover is still intact. As I said, the "bell" flair has not been touched. If I go the route of re-flairing, will probably lose about 1/8 inch of tube (cut off original, new nut, re-flair.

    I will try and see what I can do...

    Again, thanks for the input.

    Dan
     
  6. Feb 12, 2007
    Dano50

    Dano50 New Member

    Keno, Oregon
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2006
    Messages:
    38
    Talked to NAPA this morning...new self bendable break line (steel) about $8.00 for 60 inches (five feet), flaired and including both nuts. Thought I'd be into it for $1,000s (the joys of being a newbie). My heart rate just decreased a few beats.

    Thanks for all your help, got me on the right path. Looking at getting rebuilts on the calipers, should be good to go (except for the time invested).

    Off to worry about something else.
     
  7. Feb 12, 2007
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    Good deal. The new brake line usually comes in multiples of 12" or sometimes 6" lengths (6,12,18, 24, 30" lengths). You should be able to select a size that will fit for you. Be careful to not kink it when bending!! :)
     
  8. Feb 13, 2007
    Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    New England
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2006
    Messages:
    1,117
    Always replace the whole brake line. Just a tip I aquired, for getting stuck fittings off use a small 8 inch or so pipe wrench with a ton of pb blaster. If its still siezed, fill it with blaster, put a propane torch on it, smoke it all out (don't inhale) then fill it with pb blaster agian. First time a propane torch has ever done anything for me other then firing potato canon's. I couldn't believe it.
     
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