Brake Light Switch

So, my brake lights are not working AGAIN. The switch is bad again. This has because a every few months ordeal. I really think I'm just getting crappy replacement parts, but I can't believe they're only lasting 4-6 months.
However, I can't see anything else wrong...

1970 CJ5 V6

 

From where?
I got mine from rockauto last fall. Zero issues/compaints

 

I had a similar issue. It was a real problem that i never solved correctly. I ended up using swinging pedals and when I did, made sure I got the YJ one that has the microswitch on the brake arm and not the pressure switch like original. Solved it for me.

 

I did what Chris did, many years ago. Never ever had an issue. Got to be a way to make it work with the through the floor pedal as well.

 

Which brand?

 

Yikes...thats a tough one to remember. I can look tomorrow at the soonest

 

I got my low-pressure switch from ronfrancis.com. $30, but I love having to give only a gentle push to activate brake lights.

 

OK here's a thought....the V6 Jeeps originally had TWO brake light switches, one up front on the left frame rail, and another on the same side about halfway back. Well on mine the rear one has been removed. Been that way since I got it in 1998. Does anybody know why they had two and is the missing one somehow causing a problem?

 

Perhaps one is to activate the brake lights and one is activate a brake warning light. Not sure if we had such a thing in our gauge clusters. If we did, mine never worked.

 

I'm using a painless performance 80174. $20 from Amazon. Mine is at least 8 years old now
and works fine. It's a low pressure switch. I still have the rear switch inline but not hooked up,
never seemed to be a problem.

 

So, Glorious Leader said the exalted V6 is blessed with a redundant brake light system.

 

I have both . and they operate separate of each other . if one fails . the other will still give you brake lights

 

Mine always had one when I had it. Get the Standard from Rock Auto. Don't get the economy one. They have them in bullet of button style. Standard seen to make decent stuff.

 

I put Silicone brake fluid in my Jeep, big mistake, I didn't want to get brake fluid on my fresh new paint if it leaked. Anyway I went through three or four switches before I got a silicone proof brake light switch from Ron Francis, even the first one failed, but they gave me another one to replace it, and it has been good for about four years now. Good luck.

 

I use a a 1940's style Chevrolet brake switch that bolts to the underside of the floor and has an actuator arm that works off the the brake pedal. It is easy to get to through the master cylinder portal and works the nuts. Get'em right a NAPA, mine carries them in stock.

 

That's a big can of worms debated here before.
But I've used DOT-5 silicone for 30 years with no problems whatsoever. Zero, none. Fewer problems than DOT-3 in fact.

If it's a worry get a brake light switch for a Harley.

 

I ordered one of these.
Hopefully it'll last.

 

The 80174 has a 20 AMP contact rating. Your stop lights (combined) would draw about 4 +/- amps total. This switch is adequate for the job but not all switches are equal..