Discussion in 'Early Jeep Restoration and Research' started by oldtime, Jun 5, 2017.
So is this parking brake cable common or is it special to the 4 speed CJ5s?
Just a thread on the rebuild of the T18 itself, in the tech forum. Due to my current situation, the transmission has not yet found it's way into the JEEP.
I will likely build a custom crossmember from tubing when I get back at it. I am, however, still interested in all of this information you're presenting. It's good stuff.
Yes it was common on all the later D18 transfer cases.
I would have to look up the parts number to determine when that change occurred.
Just guessing I think maybe it occurred along with the 1954-1/2 transfer case change to 2.46 ratio.
All 2.43 ratio transfer cases will have the short lever with a single hole at the end.
After installing transfer case its normally time for the propeller shafts.
The front measures 28" compressed and 29-1/2" extended.
The rear measures 13-1/8" compressed and 14-7/8" extended.
The rear propeller travels a little further and you can see that it has a longer yoke than up front.
Note that these yoke splines are of military design.
They have the heavy duty threaded type seal caps not the civilian crimped type seal caps.
The skid plate was special formed for Jeeps having the optional T98-A.
The plate roughly measures 20-1/2" wide by 22" length.
1956 CJ-5 or CJ-6 sheet metal for T98
And finally here's the contents of a full T98-A rebuild kit direct to you from the late 1950's or the early 1960's.
I almost overlooked the transfer case shift levers.
In this pic you see the T98 shift levers (on your right) are nearly identical to standard levers .
The T98 transfer levers are straight up down and not swept back like standard levers.
All other bends excepting rearward bends are identical.
This was done because the rear engine support cross member was moved aft on the frame exactly 5-1/2" .
I found very boring that all the pictures are gone because of photobucket shit...
Yeah I'm sorry I'm completely computer illiterate and totally on my own.
I have never even owned a computer.
Hopefully I'll find time this winter to figure how to retrieve my pics, re-host them somewhere and get them back on.
This was an incredible thread. Thanks for all the hard work on it. Maybe Focker can help with the pictures.
I did a 3 year frame off Bronco restoration and lost all of the pictures. Made me sick. My son transferred the pictures from Photobucket to Drop Box and I was able to repost from there. All is good now.
I've worked with Ken aka oldtime to host and repost his BW T-98A 4 speed transmission information since the photos were on photobucket and folks were having trouble viewing them.
Just in time for my installation!!! Thanks to Ken for his usual technical expertise and to 48cj2a for his IT talent!!!
If the really lousy weather ever straightens up around my neck of the woods I plan to start my next flatty build with a T98-A.
Was planning to document the build over on the 3B B.B.
We've had well over a month of nearly nonstop rain, and unusual cold.
Still not even a single good day is forecast on our horizon.
If the weather warms up, a little it does so very briefly and suddenly .
Finally just today it warmed up to near 60 but the parts in my garage are all sweating very badly.
To make matters worse I have 3 jeeps worth of parts that seem determined to rust away right inside my garage.
It will take me several days just to dry, de-rust and re-oil all of my exposed parts.
I can't even keep up with the condensation problem let alone make any progress right now.
it does the same thing here
windows in jeep fog up . metal surfaces on motorcycle sweat
even get tools in tool box sweat too
I try and not open the big door on warm days
but the temptation is too great to resist
I think that's why the clutch plate has got stuck a couple of times
I can't help today with the temp/sweating issue, but am very familiar with the situation. Along with heavy automotive parts (diffs, engine blocks, transmissions, etc), my lathe, milling machine, and surfacer love to sweat with big temperature swings.
Right now, about the best thing to do is spray them down with WD40. It seems to work best when things are wet.
Once dry, I use CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor to spray down parts. It drys to a slightly tacky waxy feeling film. When the temp changes cause sweating in the future, at least the metal has a cured film, so the water doesn't really affect the parts. The CRC comes right off with brake clean when its needed, though for transmission gears (fully assembled), I just add gear oil and let the CRC dissolve and blend in. This is my way of "pickling" parts in storage, similar to the Government's Cosmoline used on our surplus parts.
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