1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Blueprint 225

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by tarry99, Feb 28, 2016.

  1. Apr 3, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    Got a little side tracked here last week on other projects...........Need to finish this 225.

    Time for the Camshaft to go in:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Using a Cloyes double roller chain set-up with adjustable cam timing.
    [​IMG]

    Installed this with the cam ahead 2 degrees to give it a little more bottom end.
    [​IMG]

    While I'm here I like to make one more check on the torque in the bottom end
    [​IMG]

    It's a good Idea to have your Torque wrenches checked every few years.
    [​IMG]

    Made a few small braces for the oil pickup tube........the end closest to the block where it bolts on is the end that normally breaks off as the only thing that holds it to the two bolt flange is just a small amount of bronze brazing. I added braces at both ends.
    [​IMG]

    Make sure it's completely cleaned and flushed out and has a nice clean metal screen on it.
    [​IMG]

    I like to use a head drilled Allen bolts here which allows me to safety wire the bolts in place. No worry about these coming loose.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I'll stick the pan back on for now to keep everything clean down here while I assemble the heads.
    [​IMG]
     
    rejeep, tymbom, Wenaha and 1 other person like this.
  2. Apr 3, 2016
    uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    Greeley CO
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2009
    Messages:
    2,104
    You do nice work. I should get you in touch with a friend that built race bikes. Between the both of you. the earth may be turning in another direction.
     
    tarry99 likes this.
  3. Apr 4, 2016
    cj6/442

    cj6/442 Sponsor

    Fallbrook, Calif
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2008
    Messages:
    2,734
    that pan and pick up are the bomb .....
     
    tarry99 likes this.
  4. Apr 7, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    Time to get these heads finished..........First thing is to check the installed height using a special micrometer........this is the distance between the spring seat and the valve spring retainer. Take that dimension and check that with a spring and retainer in the spring compressor and that will tell you how much tension you have on the seat when the valve is closed...........using the cam card it will tell you the net lobe lift. Then take the rocker ratio and multiply the two together and that will tell you net valve lift. You can then also check spring pressure while valve is at it's maximum lift. All important things to know if your motor will be seeing high RPM's or you have a large lift cam whereby you may be concerned about Piston to Valve clearance at some point near TDC.

    These heads were surface ground about .004 to clean up. I have also polished the combustion chambers while also doing some port work in and around both the valve bowls and valve stems. Porting the runners is of little benefit as far as I am concerned although a little cleanup is fine...........the exhaust side also likes some work done to the short turn radius that improves exhaust flow.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Checking installed height..........on non-race heads the installed height can vary .020-.030 thousands.........this will vary by the depth of the valve seat in the head and also how many times the valve has been ground or how much was needed to be ground off to get it to clean up.
    [​IMG]

    On the Romac spring tester........you should always use the spring retainer that is being used in the motor during the measuring and the spring checking.
    [​IMG]

    Once your valves and heads are all cleaned up and dried it's time for assembly.........In these heads I'm using a aftermarket press on "Viton" valve stem seal......these do require the valve stem boss in the head to be cut to the proper OD and also the guides need to be checked for the proper guide clearance...........
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Danefraz likes this.
  5. Apr 7, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Messages:
    5,798
    Great information.
     
  6. Apr 12, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    Getting close............last thing to finish up is the Buick V6 Oil Pump..........and since the front timing cover is also the oil pump housing special attention should be made to inspect the pump gear cavity for groves cut by debris that has gone through the pump at some point in the past...........This goes for both the base of the cavity and the sides. Any grooves in the aluminum will hinder the pumps ability to generate both oil pressure and volume..........The Specs for End Play clearance are .0023-.0058. Obviously tighter is better and I like to see them at .002-.004 max. T.A. Performance sells a gasket shim kit # TA-1704 that helps to attain those close specs. If the gear bore side walls are grooved or if worn to the point whereby the clearance between the gears and wall exceeds .006-.007 thousands it may be time to think about getting another timing cover.........Spec for side clearance is .003-.005.

    I have also enlarged the two main cavity's in the pump to improve oil volume...........I have also enlarged the cavity's in the block to just under .500 to match the ID of the 225 Oil Pickup. The 231 oil Pickup is .625 diameter as well as some of the ports in the front cover..........these parts may help getting oil to the pump but not necessarily help in getting it to the bearings...as the block would still have restrictions..............I personally think that anything one can do to improve oil flow within reason should be done...........but I'll leave that final decision up to you!

    [​IMG]

    As you can see this housing is void of any trash or debris going through there and is in real good shape.[​IMG]

    The Aluminum Booster Plate has just a few tiny marks from the gears bumping against the end............On this rebuild I will be using something different which is a ductile Iron wear / booster plate........this plate goes between the original gear housing and the Booster Plate oil filter housing........this metal plate at the opposite end of the gear cavity is said to be much flatter than the aluminum , while also resisting wear from the steel gears and yet is said to make the pump more efficient at low RPM's............
    [​IMG]

    This pump was modified by me years ago when I added the high Volume Kenne-Bell V8 gear set to the pump with the addition of the taller plate and manual adjustable by-pass pressure setting................Some say the high volume gears are not needed and may cause some additional wear to the driven distributor gear...........but I have never had an issue with one as long as the by-pass pressure is not cranked up real high. More to follow....
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Apr 22, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    Some of these things you'll need to Blueprint the Oil Pump..........this is all about maintaining clearance's in order for the pump to build pressure and push volume throughout the motor. As mentioned above this pump does have the taller .250 Buick V8 gears in it.........Not saying that you should add these taller gears , that's your decision.
    Above all make sure the gear cavity base and the side walls are not all grooved up from trash going through the pump.......If they are , it will never build good pressure and volume. Gear End clearance: that would be when the pump is fully assembled how much clearance Up/ Down there is between the gear and case..........recommended end clearance is .002-.004 just as important is the side gear clearance.........this would be between the gear face and the gear cavity........recommended side gear clearance .002-.004.
    [​IMG]

    I first like to make sure everything is flat..........as the gaskets you will be using are only between .005 and .012 thousands..........here I'm using some abrasive cloth on top of a flat Granite surface plate to clean up any high spots in these parts........same thing goes for the cover.......a nice piece of heavy glass will also work with some fine abrasive cloth.
    [​IMG]

    Surprisingly this housing is still in very good shape for being an original. If you notice the .250 extension housing is staked in place by two .125 diameter roll pins that properly locate the extension in the correct position relative to the gear cavity to the original gear housing.
    [​IMG]

    Side gear clearance at .0025
    [​IMG]

    Now it's time to set the end play..........A set of these TA Performance pump shims comes in handy to get the right clearance.
    [​IMG]

    On this pump I also added a new steel pump thrust end plate which is on the left.........normally when the pump is running the gears will be riding on the aluminum oil filter housing , which will eventually wear......... this steel thrust plate is used to give new life to your worn or scared cover housing........the kit also comes with the right length bolts.
    [​IMG]

    A little work is needed between the thrust plate and the oil filter cover to get things to line up.........here I'm using a blue dye to mark the areas.
    [​IMG]

    A slight chamfer is all that is needed between these parts.
    [​IMG]

    Time to assemble all the parts and check the end clearance.
    [​IMG]

    Make sure you have the correct length bolts when you mock this up.......If the bolts are to short it will pull the threads out of the housing............the cover is required to be torqued from 7-10 lbs........make sure you rotate the pump from inside as you torque it down to get it aligned. During this process the gaskets used will compress some as you torque down.........once you've checked your end clearance with a dial indicator you can make a gasket adjustment using the T.A Kit by either adding or subtracting to get to the right end clearance.
    [​IMG]

    Dial indicator set up on the pump shaft end.........
    [​IMG]

    Set at -0-
    [​IMG]

    And the clearance.........is .003.............just about perfect..........but I did have to disassemble it twice and mix the thin shim gaskets up to get there.
    [​IMG]

    Now carefully disassemble the parts once again............get some Vaseline and fill the pump cavity full and reassemble and torque it down once more. Finished.
    [​IMG]
     
    Danefraz likes this.
  8. May 5, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    Sorry been a little busy elsewhere..........time to get this finished..........I used a one piece rubber seal (TA 1513 ) up front in the timing cover as will as using the 2-piece rear Viton seal (TA V1515) at the rear main... I like these as compared to the old rope seal...........care has to be taken that your seal surface on the dampner and crankshaft at the rear are in good condition.........

    I used the hydraulic press to push the front seal in as it automatically squares the seal in the bore on the way in.
    [​IMG]

    A slight amount of silicon sealant around the OD of the seal helps prevent any future leaks.
    [​IMG]

    Timing marks lined up
    [​IMG]

    New Distributor gear installed and ARP 12 bolt to hold the cam gears in place........the bolt also acts as a place to locate a spring loaded cam bumper.
    [​IMG]

    With the spring loaded bumper in place
    [​IMG]

    And finally installing the front cover with a new water pump.
    [​IMG]

    Once you get the vibration Dampner on I like to check TDC on the Hub VS the front cover. I do that by using a dial indicator to find true TDC.
    [​IMG]

    Set to zero
    [​IMG]

    As compared to the Hub...............Pretty darn close.
    [​IMG]
     
    Danefraz likes this.
  9. May 5, 2016
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2014
    Messages:
    7,540
    A work of art. :watch:
     
  10. May 5, 2016
    Rozcoking23

    Rozcoking23 RUN & GET BIT! 2024 Sponsor

    Stockton, CA
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2008
    Messages:
    805
    Is that a stock vibration dampner? Doesn't look anything like the couple I have around here.
     
  11. May 5, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    Stock Yes, aftermarket replacement years back , balanced with motor.........with degree tape added.
     
  12. May 5, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Messages:
    5,798
    The cam bumper. Some have it some don't. Whats your opinion on them?
     
  13. May 5, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    I have always used an adjustable one which is just a bolt that is threaded out from the camshaft that bumps the front cover...........The spring loaded version I installed in this one will be my first............

    I think either way the only thing that keeps the cam stationary is the chain from moving in or out........so the spring I think is a good Idea............and guys have been using these in Buicks for decades.
     
  14. May 6, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    A final look inside and doing a little pre-oiling.....
    [​IMG]

    And the pan is on
    [​IMG]
     
    Danefraz likes this.
  15. May 6, 2016
    givemethewillys

    givemethewillys Been here since sparky ran it. 2022 Sponsor

    New Kent, VA
    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2005
    Messages:
    1,998
    Extremely well done as always. Thanks again Tarry for documenting this for the rest of us!
     
    tarry99 likes this.
  16. May 6, 2016
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2012
    Messages:
    2,356
    I totally agree. This write up took a lot of time and effort on your part and I appreciate it enormously! I learned a lot and I know it will be a great reference for everybody with a dauntless.
    Thank you!
     
    tarry99 likes this.
  17. May 8, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    Time to put the heads on............using FelPro Head gaskets

    [​IMG]

    Make sure all your prep work has been done prior to getting to this point.....things like: Cleaning the bolts, chasing the threads in the block, wiping the block and head surface clean.........having a thread lubricant nearby along with your torque wrench , tightening pattern and knowing the torque amount you want to apply.
    [​IMG]

    Even though Felpro says these gaskets can be installed either dry or using a sealant I still like to spray these with a light coat of Copper Coat on both sides.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Torqued down to 75 lbs.
    [​IMG]

    Next I'll get the overhead on drop the lifters in place followed by the push-rods and adjust the valves........Tomorrow I'll get 5-qts of oil and a filter for this and also bring my pre-oil pressure tank home and pressurize the oil system.
     
    Danefraz likes this.
  18. May 10, 2016
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Messages:
    742
    great write up.
     
  19. May 12, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    Just about finished..............for all you folks that have issues with priming the oil pump after a rebuild , this is for you...........and I like to always do it while the motor is still on the engine stand. Of course if your at the priming point you have already got your motor together and have already filled the oil pump cavity with Vaseline and if you haven't you better go back and do it right now...........that's why it's nice to still have it on the stand.

    Pick a good oil...........I like to break them in with an oil that is High in Zinc (ZDDP) for wear protection much like this premium VR1 Racing oil from Valvoline. I also like to put a pint of Break In additive just for extra protection.
    [​IMG]

    While still on the stand rotate the engine until the oil filter cavity is down and put 2/3 of a quart in the filter and screw it back on............next make sure your lifters are in the valley and if you have not yet put the fuel pump on do it now or use a block off plate as I have...........make sure your oil pan plug is in and pour the balance of the first quart and two more quarts into the valley and oil pan. I use an oil pump priming tool with an 18 volt drill. Make sure your rocker stands are on but leave them loose for now...............turn the drill on clockwise and within 10 seconds you'll feel the drill starting to get pulled down...........watch the front rocker stands on both sides as oil will start to come out of the fronts.............tighten the bolts down and the rotate the motor 180 degrees by hand and turn the drill on again for another 5-10 seconds.........turn the motor over by hand and run the drill another 5-10 seconds........check for any leaks and reassemble what ever is still left and you now should be good to go. I don't worry about oil pressure while on the stand just the movement of oil and the priming of the pump.
    [​IMG]

    Oil Pump Priming Tool: Speedmaster PCE400.1001: Engine Oil Pump Primer Tool Small Block Chevy 350 | JEGS
    [​IMG]

    Plenty of oil making it's way up from the oil galley through the block and into the head and into the rocker stand..........if you have no volume here you will have problems with your rockers.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    And that is about it............I'm going to drop the push rods in and adjust the valves and it's about ready for delivery.
     
    Hellion and Danefraz like this.
  20. May 12, 2016
    AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2003
    Messages:
    1,035
    Thanks for taking the time Tarry. I'm pretty sure this is going to help me when I get to my engine rebuild some day.
     
New Posts