Blueprint 225

This is a cool idea ...

 

Now that is a built motor 500hp compared to the one you are building now ! I love the detail of this form ,Great job Tarry !

 

I got nothin to add. But what about the 6? I'm beginning to doubt that we'll see it for the July Rubicon run.

 

John , Never say Never...........I'm working on it but I do have a problem getting sidetracked on other projects..........If not this time will do it together another time.......and also I want you to scope out Utah and act as a Guide for the next time we both go back.

 

Thanks to all for the compliments...........hopefully there is something here for everyone.

 

i like all the extra attention you are giving this engine to ensure proper oiling. All these are real simple ideas that are adding a nice touch.

 

I hope you're make 2 sets of those baffles

 

I'm not sure baffles would have done much when running on it's side! Even a dry-sump system would need to have the scavenge portions strategically placed..............

Looks more like a Circus Act.......have you tried booking that with Barnum & Bailey?

No Problem on the baffles , anything you need Bud!............

 

Nice day here in Cally , Blue sky and 70 degrees............got done a little early , time to move this engine project forward, As I once mentioned before make sure all the bolt holes have been chased with the proper sized tap.


I also like to take a 3-M Scotch-Brite Roloc conditioning disc pad and clean up any rust or left over gasket material on all the sealing surfaces............You can never over clean one of these motors prior to assembly.


Also a good Idea to make sure there is a slight chamfer at the top of the threads.........as threads wear in the block they sometimes will start to lift the top thread........if that is not below the block surface it's hard to get maximum clamping force when torquing the heads down.


A long reach air blower is a great tool to blow out oil gallys and other small ports......................this is just a standard air gun with an extension I built on to it which is just a piece of stainless brake line and a compression fitting.........you can build several lengths if you like.


Time for a Bath...............get out your Bottle Brushes...........pick a spot outside where the Sun will be warm. I like to use standard dish washing soap mixed in a bucket and If you have hot water nearby as I do hook your hose up and wash away.


Scrub it down...........Can't ever get them to clean............make sure you have your air near by to dry it all once washed.


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Dry it with plenty of air............again a nice Sunny calm day is the best time to do this.


Once good and dry..............take some WD-40 or motor oil and coat all the bare surfaces , If not it will start to rust fairly fast...............get a fresh unused bag and cover it up but do not seal it.
Later tonight I'll start to assemble the lower end.

 

straight up soap and water. I never woulda thought to do that.

 

It's the same thing the machinist told me after he bored and honed the cylinders for my Harley. Wash, rinse and dry a few times then run a clean, oiled rag through them. If the rag is dirty, wash a few more times, dry and do the oily rag bit again. I think I went through 6 washes before things were clean.

 

I don't have anything to add besides, once again awesome work! Inspiration for all of us...

 

I love a good engine build....

are you going to dyno just for posterity?

 

The Hot water coupled with the Dish Soap is a pretty effective way of cleaning blocks & cylinder bores...........Once dry a quick wipe with a clean rag using this product from Hoppe's which is normally used to clean rifle & pistol bores will tell you quickly if any residue has been left behind.

 

Dyno? Nope...........Nothing to learn here in the Horsepower department........this is just a basic V6 rebuild with a few improvements & pointers along the way.

Yes , it will have a little more compression brought on by the .006 we took off the cylinder heads and the fact that since the bore is now larger also is the Swept Volume. We also did some work around the Intake and exhaust valve bowels which will help the motor breath better but nothing that would be worth the cost of taking up time on someones dyno.

The 225's are pretty restricted in the cylinder head flow volume department , about a 100 cfm is all they flow........If you can't get air in there is no mechanical way to make power short of Nitrous , or Super or Turbo charging.......the stock 231's flow about 120 cfm and the stock Turbo head about 160 cfm. The turbo heads can be re-worked to flow near 200 cfm with extensive work and changing valve sizes which still only equates to perhaps 275 hp naturally aspirated.

 

Thanks for sharing.

a little dab behind the ears as well... nothing more distinct than #9... better than old spice

Excellent idea.

 

Starting the assembly process, Here is some of the things you'll need.


When using the new re-tro fit rear Viton rubber seal as I am from T.A. Perf. #V1515 you must be sure the edges in the cap have a slight chamfer where the seal fits to not cut the seal during the install. With a standard Rope Seal this step is not needed.




It's a good Idea to dress your caps for any high spots. Needle files make this job easy as well as putting a chamfer in the edges.


If you don't have these get a set , always nice to have around.


If you look closely the shiny witness marks are the high spots in the cap...........a few seconds with a proper file or stone will true the cap up.


Important: Once your caps are cleaned up it's a good Idea to dry fit the Rear Main Cap ..........the bolts holes are large enough , which allows the cap to be either fore or aft of the intended location for the two seal half's to fit correctly together...........once you have found that correct location by sight and touch it's a good Idea to scribe a line in the cap and block so once the install starts and the area is now hidden by the seal and crankshaft you still have a reference point to get it where it needs to go. The scribe line is in both half's to the left of center.


Make sure your Crank is clean and all oil passages have been blown out.


Time to drop the Crank in.


On these new two piece seals , some like to stagger the parting line while others don't......the rational behind the stagger is that it lessens the chance of the rear main leaking at the parting line.
Here I have offset the seal about 3/8" of inch...........a small amount of RTV sealant should be used in the groove in the Block behind where the seal will locate. Some like to add a very small dab of RTV to the parting line on each half of the seal , some don't! I do..........In this picture I have also installed the upper bearing half's in the block.


Make sure you get the right bearings in the correct locations............the second bearing from the front is obviously the Thrust Bearing...... also some of the bearings have oil holes larger that others and should be matched up with a corresponding hole in the block..............all of this should have been done prior to this when hopefully you were dry fitting and measuring the clearance's prior to the assembly. Put a generous amount of Assembly Lube on the bearing face and spread it around with your finger. No assembly lube on the rear seal.........once your ready to drop the Crank in the seal and Crank seal area should just have a light coating of motor oil.


Oil the Crank on the bench with assembly lube at the main bearing areas and motor oil at the seal area...........................slowly lower the crank into position , never force it! No need to oil the throws on the Crank Shaft now where the Connecting rods go...........that will happen later.


A quick half turn of the crank is all that is needed to verify your ready for the Main Caps..........Grab your Main Caps........... they should be all marked 1-4 with the arrow pointing forward and start loading the bottom half of the bearings in each...........#2 is the Thrust ............make sure you have the proper bearing in the correct location as the bearing location knubs / studs can be offset for different positions.........that of course should have been figured out when you did the dry fit a while back.
Lube your main bolts.


Install your caps with bearings and assembly lube , make sure you check the rear Main Cap for location to your scribe line. The rubber mallet is used to seat the caps once they are lined up correctly do not force them........install the bolts and start the torquing process starting from the center out , while torquing rotate the crank just to make sure there is no Drag other than the heavy assembly lube..............I have torqued these to 110 lbs.


Set up your dial indicator and check the End Play clearance against the thrust bearing by moving the Crank Shaft fore and Aft.............correct spec is .004-.008 thousands End Play.


.005 clearance is right in the middle of the range.

 

Terry, This is awesome.

What if your thrust is out of spec? I assume you laid in your plastiguage or did you use another method to measure bearing clearance? Do ALL bearing caps have torques measured with lubricated threads? As you well know there is a difference in torque measurements in lubricated vs dry.

Thank you.

 

Chris.........Thanks for looking.........

If your thrust is out of spec? ..........to little will burn it up and to much will allow the crank to move back and forth , which would likely eat the bearings and also cause excessive wear in the cylinder walls.

On the Clearances , go back and take a look starting at #7 ..................everything is measured with .0001 tenth Micrometers and then all component measurements are recorded on a build sheet...........the parts like rods , pistons & bearings are number stamped or bagged for each position for later assembly...............once done there is no further need during assembly to use anything like Play-Guage to measure anything. The reason for the need to be pro-active in the measuring process prior to assembly is to first catch a problem that could exist with the parts , and then deal with it prior to the assembly. Recording the measurements on a build sheet allows for future reference for later builds or as an aid in diagnosing a latter problem.........all in what we do when Blueprinting a motor.

All Items being torqued require a proper lubricant usually set forth by the parts manufacture....................Never to you torque anything Dry!

 

Thanks for posting this up Terry! You know I would watch how I can do this right. I already know how to geterdun!

So if your thrust is out of spec your only options are to either get another crank or weld and have ground your thrust surfaces?