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Auxiliary Heater Install

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by FinoCJ, Jan 22, 2018.

  1. Jan 22, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Jul 18, 2013
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    5,593
    I have an auxiliary heater that I am thinking of re-installing into my jeep - it was poorly installed when I got it and was causing complications with wiring and blowing fuses etc. It was also flimsily mounted below the dash and glovebox and interfered with the fold and tumble passenger seat as well as the leg room in the footwell. The hosing in the engine bay was also a bit over complicated from my POV as well.

    But now I have an upgraded alternator, have cleaned up much of the wiring and have a auxiliary fuse box ready to run some add-ons from, and think I might have a good plan in place to mount it solidly (and the wife would appreciate it). I think I have room adjacent to the glove box behind the dash so its up and out of the way - although I will probably have to drill a couple holes into the firewall for the rear mount (there are lots of holes already).

    Has anyone mounted theirs up behind the dash (pics)? I think I have enough clearance.

    Another question: Thinking about the best way to route the water hoses (there are already two holes cut into the firewall from the previous installation that I am going to re-use). To get the most heat I would run the auxiliary heater hoses 'in parallel' to the stock heater hoses (this is also how it was originally installed, and causes quite a mess of hoses and junctions in the engine bay). How much heat will I loose if I run the two heaters 'in series'? Will it be noticeable? It would be a much cleaner hose routing this way, and would also minimize any affect on the flow of water through the block - if that even matters).
     
  2. Jan 22, 2018
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    I think in series would be the best idea. If necessary you might consider installing a valve downstream of the second heater to throttle the flow but I can't picture losing that much heat due to the extra radiator affect.
     
  3. Jan 22, 2018
    45es

    45es Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Naches, WA
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    If it were me and it's not, before I would consider installing an auxiliary heater I would look closely to the modifications jeep2003 performed to his stock heater. By reconfiguring the air flow pattern of the oem heater, he was able to make the unit perform as it should. To me there are a lot of plusses to doing this as apposed to the auxiliary heater.

    www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/make-your-stock-heater-work.128494/

    If you pursue your plan to add the second heater, you will want to route the water lines from the engine to the auxiliary unit first, then out of auxiliary unit to oem heater and then return to the engine. The reason for this is, the available water is at it's highest temperature when coming directly from the engine and will have greatest effect on heating the interior of the jeep. If you route the water lines to oem heater first and then the auxiliary heater, the water will be cooled by the anemic oem heater and reducing the effect of the new heater. Last, any valve(s) you install into the heater water lines, no mater where will affect the flow to both heaters simultaneously.

    If you by chance decide to pipe the water to the two heaters in a parallel arrangement, you will introduce yet another degree of issues and a plumbing nightmare as you have already noted.
     
    ojgrsoi likes this.
  4. Jan 22, 2018
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    Is this the same one I'm watching (for a price drop :sneak:) in the classifieds?
     
  5. Jan 22, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Yup...I am sort of at the point where I either need to sell it or use it. And since its pricey to ship, that takes out most of the profit. There is always a bit more back story of course, including my wife gave me the kind of look that said she would love to have more heat in the jeep - she views it as her heater as it would be mounted and controlled by a switch on the passenger side (the stock heater works plenty fine for me). My solution was always going to be seat heaters (and they work even with no top), but realistically not sure if/when that will ever happen.

    Shoot me a PM if you want to discuss...
     
  6. Jan 22, 2018
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    That would be nice.
     
    sterlclan likes this.
  7. Jan 27, 2018
    Bill67cj5

    Bill67cj5 Member

    Franklin, TN
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    Apr 12, 2014
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    86
    Just installed a Mohave 640 last week behind glove box. Used existing holes to route hoses.....mine had several to choose from as well! Wired in using a relay to protect the ignition. pictures of the heater/plumbing/wiring in the Media section. look for Bill67Cj5 file or 67CJ5 heater photo album.
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  8. Jan 27, 2018
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

    exploring the...
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    did this last winter, love me some warm seats...
     
    Focker likes this.
  9. Feb 1, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Jul 18, 2013
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    Agree with your comments above - been thinking more about how I might run the hoses. Due to hose routing as much as anything, it does seem like the hot water will go to the aux heater first and then to the oem and return to the block. Was about ready to go forward, and two thoughts have popped up:

    1) I wasn't planning on putting a valve in the line, but then realized that would mean hot water would be flowing into the aux heater and thus into the cab whether or not I want the heat on (fan on). This wouldn't be so good in the hot summer months. Putting a valve in line, and blocking the water flow could work, but would be annoying to have to open/close it when needed. Summer would probably always be closed, and winter always open - but there are a lot of cool morning and hot afternoons.

    2) Currently, my homemade heater bracket mount has the heater right up against the backside of the dash - the idea was that it would be more effective at getting hot air out from under the dash and into the cab. But this means that I need to run the hoses through the firewall (existing hose holes from PO) and into the cab with some tight bends/corners. Thinking maybe I should mount the heater forward against the firewall with the two inlet/outlet nipples (about 1.5" long) going through the firewall and into the engine bay where the hose connections technically be in the engine compartment. I would have to drill new hose/nipple holes.
     
    Focker likes this.
  10. Feb 1, 2018
    45es

    45es Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Naches, WA
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    If you want to install a control valve, you can use one like this.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...mc=pla-msn-_-shopping-_-srese2-_-four-seasons

    Install a remote control cable inside the Jeep to the valve.
     
    Focker likes this.
  11. Feb 1, 2018
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    At the foot of...
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    Regarding #1, just get a cable operated heater control valve.
     
  12. Feb 1, 2018
    Oldriginal86

    Oldriginal86 Member

    Pasadena, Md.
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    Nov 5, 2014
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    Original heaters used to have a flow control valve in the inlet hose that was cable operated. It was to control the temperature but would completely close and stop all flow through the core. Mine is a ‘61, not sure about yours.
     
  13. Feb 1, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    On my 70 - I do not believe there is any flow control/shut off valve. The temp control cable only operates a flapper that redirects air flow over or away from the heater core. The Off/Air/Defrost vacuum switches only operate the flapper valves inside the air duct inside the cab.

    Wondering about trying to use the vacuum operated switches to see if I connect the Air and Defrost vacuum lines to both the flapper valve and heater valve. The pull cable is certainly the simplest - but need to find a good place to put the cable handle (probably use a choke type cable pull). Or I could probably homebuild some sort of MTB cable pull/gear lever.
     
  14. Feb 1, 2018
    mike starck

    mike starck Member

    salem,oregon
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    Vintage Air has a electric heater control valve that would be a nice piece to use. '60-'70 ford f series pickup used a cable control valve .try Rock Auto or bone yard.
     
  15. Feb 2, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Here is a photo of where I am thinking of having the heater core inlet/outlet tubes come through the firewall. Although the heater core would be inside the cab, the hose connection would be inside the engine bay. Whaddaya think? Its a bit high above the engine block, but that is the correct height inside the cab to be up behind the dash.
    hmmm....?
    [​IMG]

    The connections would be just above the hard fuel lines (from rear tank) and I would need to re-route the electrical a bit. You can see the existing holes for the hoses down and to the left just a bit - its a good height for hose routing inside the engine bay (about the same height as the top of the engine), but then I have some hose routing and corners to make on the inside of the cab to connect to the core.
     
  16. Feb 2, 2018
    Renegade ll

    Renegade ll Member

    Thayne Wyoming
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    Feb 17, 2013
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    James I came through the firewall a little high also. Here is a picture of what I did. The heater sits just behind the glove box attached to the firewall. I have more pics of the heater, let me know and I will post them.
    I installed the black bulkhead to make the connections.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2018
    FinoCJ likes this.
  17. Feb 2, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Thanks a lot Julius - that is pretty much exactly how I am thinking of mine. The two heater ports would be horizontal rather than vertical due to the design of my heater core, but its really helpful to see how the hoses look up that high. I think I am going that route - I am going to make a new bracket (should be easier the second time) that positions the heater against the inside firewall and will have to drill a couple holes to fit the inlet/outlet ports through. Although I don't love drilling new holes in the firewall, I do like the final fit and function (I am big on functional aesthetic) of this set -up. Will probably put some sort of cable operated valve to shut the flow down and keep the aux heater from being hot in the summer. Still thinking about where and how I want to mount such a pull-cable. It doesn't really fit on the new dash plate I made last week for control switches - didn't think about such a need at the time. It will also give me an excuse to clean up my wiring and routing there.

    Julius - it looks like you ran your hoses from the water pump to the aux heater and then to the oem heater all in-line?
     
  18. Feb 2, 2018
    Renegade ll

    Renegade ll Member

    Thayne Wyoming
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    I do not have the OEM heater. I replaced it with a Vintage Air unit. Vintage Air 506101.
     
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