Amp light

I converted over to a 3 wire GM alternator with a voltage gauge. But I can't seem to get the amp light to work. Can someone provide me with a simple diagram or tell me how to connect the amp light. I have read all the stuff on the page every one refers to and it doesn't help. Do I need a diode in line with the amp light?

I have it wired like this right now. terminal 1 from the alternator to the ACC on key switch. termial 2 on the alternator spliced into the wire running to the Batt connector on the alternator. Batt terminal feeds back to pos side of battery. Voltage gauge is wired to ACC side of key switch and ground. It shows it is charging at 14+ volts.

I just want the AMP light as a quick indicator.

Thanks Lenard

 

The 1 wire has to be in parallel with the amp light and then to the key switch.

 

Do you mean two seperate wires from terminal 1? I tried splicing into the wire that goes from terminal 1 to switch but amp light wasstaying on any time the switch was receiving power. Should it go to another position on the switch other than ACC?

Thanks again Lenard

 

No, one wire comes from the "1" terminal on the alt. and then it goes to one side of the bulb. Another wire from the other side of the bulb then goes to the key switch.

 

No - Looking at the back of the instrument panel gauge, the center wire on the amp light goes to terminal 1 on the alternator, the one attached to the "outside" of the amp light does to the key switch. So the amp light is in series, or in between Terminal 1 and the key switch.

 

That explains it! Guess I need to find a different light socket. The dash is from lots of parts Cjs so I just grabbed one of the light sockets for the insturment panel. Do both the oil pressure and amp light use the same style socket? That one will be next on the to fix list.

Thanks Lenard

 

I THINK so ... here is a picture of mine ...

 

This is the first of dozens of posts that CLEARLY explain the wiring of #1 terminal off the alternator!!!!!!!!!!!
Very cool......Thanx Davistroy!

Lenard,
Send me your mailing address and I will send you one of my spare amp light sockets. I now use a voltmeter and would have it no other way.

 

right click save, thanks

 

AS I understand this, the amp light sees the difference in voltage between the ignition switch and the regulator or alternator terminal (alt). That means it is not grounded to the shell of the cluster. When alt is the same voltage as the ignition switch, no light. The alt has to act as a ground (ie alternator not working) for the amp light to be on.

The OP light is similar - connecting to the hot side of the switch and then to the OP sender, which is a variable resistor. If OP is low, the sender grounds the lamp and it lights.

Numbers 6, 7, and 8 are grounded to the shell of the cluster and will light when 12V is applied to their one wire.

BTW isn't this picture upside down? Aren't the guages at teh bottom of the cluster?

 

sharp eye, i didnt even pay attention untill you pointed it out

 

"If you can read this, flip me over"R)R) I 'spose it makes sense when you're contorted like a pretzel trying to see under the dash.........................

 

Yes, it is upside down ... I did it that way as some of the diagrams I was trying to decipher (FSM figures H-4 and H-6) were oriented that way, so I was trying to make it easy on myself.

 

Very helpful diagram, BTW. Excel?

 

Well, I took a picture, pasted that into Powerpoint, annotated it, then did a screen grab of that image and pasted it into Excel where I had the table. Then I did a screen grab of that whole thing, saved it to a JPG and then uploaded it to Flickr.

I am trying to document everything I learn as I go along so I don't have to learn it twice! Need to start a wiki ...

 

69CJ5inWI thanks for the offer. I stopped by a friends on the way home and he gave me a what he had left over of a wiring harness with the gauge wiring still intact!

Thanks Lenard

 

I've been wondering about doing this on my alternator conversion. I tinkered with it yeas ago, but wasn't able to come up with anything that worked.

I'm using a late 60's thru- early 7-0's Chrysler alternator with the external voltage regulator.



Does anyone have an idea on how to get the amp light to work with this set-up?

 

Not that I know of. Mopar had a good setup as pictured but with this regulator, which is really not much more than a relay, and mopar used ammeters per say in stead of idiot lights.

 

I have a clarification request--is it ok to use an in-dash voltmeter as well as the idiot light?

 

Yes..