1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

ARB Locker Install

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Posimoto, May 26, 2012.

  1. May 26, 2012
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,538
    This install went really well after I bought a diff. case spreader on eBay. I've been told you can install an ARB without one, but that didn't work for me. I mashed a shim pack trying to get the case installed and ended up having to buy another shim pack from ARB. $6.95 for the shims, $16.95 for the shipping. Ouch! Because of the contours on the top of the D30 centersection it's not easy finding a good spot to drill the hole for the air line. Mine ended up a little closer to the ring gear than I wanted, but it works just fine. The copper tube is quite stiff and once you bend it to where you want it I don't see how it could move on it's own. It would be easier to do the install with the axle housing out of the vehicle, but I managed with it still in the vehicle. I have a right angle drill that allowed me to drill the hole in the top with the limited clearance I had to work with. Here's some pics of the install. I'll post up a couple more of the location of the solenoid that sends air pressure to the locker and my routing of the air line once it stops SNOWING here and I can snap a couple of pics.


    [​IMG]


    This pic shows the spreader setup on the diff. I spread it the max recommended (.020") just long enough to put the case in.
    [​IMG]

    Case is in, ready to bend the copper air tube to route to hole in top of the housing. The hole is tapped 1/4" NPT and has a compression fitting for the copper tube to go up through.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Five wires need to be fed to the switch. Hot in, hot out, 2 grounds and one wire to the dashlights. I cut the square hole using a Dremel with a cutoff disc.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    I've had a chance to try it out in the snow last week and it locks and unlocks great. And what's not to like about true 4 wheel drive. I only wish I could afford one for the rear too. But for now the full spool will be fine. After I have a set of beadlocks I'll start saving for an ARB for the rear axle.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2014
  2. May 26, 2012
    cj6/442

    cj6/442 Sponsor

    Fallbrook, Calif
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2008
    Messages:
    2,734
    John ,,,,,,,I call first dibs on the spool.......
     
  3. May 26, 2012
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2012
    Messages:
    2,356
    Thank you for posting these pics!

    I am contemplating putting on OX lockers. It will be one axle at a time too. I was think rear first, my rear seems to slip before the front.

    So 2 questions: Why did you decide on air lockers vs e-lockers/ox lockers and why front first?

    Thanks!
     
  4. May 27, 2012
    Ghetto Fab.

    Ghetto Fab. Member

    Atascadero, Ca.
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2005
    Messages:
    512
    How easily did the case spreader work? I tried to make one years ago, but couldn't get it to do much.

    Can't go wrong with the ARBs! I'm saving up for one too.

    Kevo
     
  5. May 27, 2012
    RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Sutton Bay
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2005
    Messages:
    564
    I'm considering one as well. Would you recommend front axle over rear? I have nothing in the rear currently
     
  6. May 27, 2012
    mpc

    mpc Member

    Vista, CA 92083...
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2005
    Messages:
    779
    I have some info from a buddy of mine that I saved regarding engaging the ARB:

    “I just wanted to share a hard learned lesson with those who run ARB lockers. First, I just ordered a new clutch gear for my ARB locker. Mine wore out pre-maturely because I occasionally engage it wrong. The clutch gear has is a sleeve gear that, when engaged, straddles the left and right axle spline gears. The clutch gear is just 1/4" thick! So when it is engaged, it only covers the gears by 1/8" max. This is plenty strong if engaged properly but if you engage it wrong the edge of the clutch gear rounds off and you're back to an open diff.

    So, here's the right and wrong ways to engage an ARB locker;
    Correct way
    1. Engage the locker at a dead stop. Correct no damage
    2. Engage the locker while moving perfectly straight with zero wheel slippage. Correct no damage.
    Wrong way
    3. Engage the locker while turning slowly. Wrong, the spline gear rounds off the clutch gear edge (Which only has 1/8" to round off before it's useless).
    4. Engage the locker when you start loosing traction to give you the traction you need to keep moving (This is what round off my clutch gear). Wrong, the spline gear rounds off the clutch gear edge because one tire is moving at a different speed than the other (Which only has 1/8" to round off before it's useless).”


    I have no idea if that's true or not, but it sounds logical so I adhere to it.
     
  7. May 27, 2012
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2003
    Messages:
    3,323
    Just an opinion but since you have nothing in the rear, I would install the rear first.
     
  8. May 28, 2012
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,538
    Definitely install the rear first. I already have a full spool in the rear ie: premanently locked. The directions above regarding engagement of the locker apply to any selectable locker. Also applies to trucks with automatic locking hubs. If you wait until you are stuck to engage the locker, you probably waited too long. You can still engage the locker, but not while you have any wheel spin happening.

    Ghetto Fab: The spreader worked quite well. I don't know about specs for other axles, but the D30 max spread is .020" I set up my shim pack so I had zero play and the backlash was a little on the tight side (about .003"). I added .015" to the driver side with the case spread .020", put the diff in and let go of the spreader. That gave me the recommended .015" preload on the carrier bearings and pushed my backlash out to .007. Right where it was with the old diff installed.

    "So 2 questions: Why did you decide on air lockers vs e-lockers/ox lockers and why front first?"

    Originally I was thinking the eLocker. I like the idea of having a LS that would lock. But after some research I found that they may not totally lock the axles, in other words, it is possible to overcome the clutches that are supposed to lock the eLocker. There were other issues people were having with them locking and unlocking. The price was appealing and granted, some of the complaints I read online were rather dated, so they may have been addressed by now. I just didn't want to gamble on them to save a couple hundred bucks. I liked the Ox, but it ends up costing as much as an ARB and I understand there are issues with keeping the cable properly adjusted for the OX. Also it annoyed me that you have to order the shifter and cable separate instead of being included. Seems ridiculous to me. It's not like you have any options other than to order their shifter assembly. Kinda like buying a popsicle and having the clerk ask you if you want to buy a popsicle stick to go with it.
     
  9. May 29, 2012
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,466
    I have OX and looked at both ARB and OX when I made my choice. Personally - never had an issue with the cables and adjustments. The only issue I had was my own doing (locked the spin lock without realizing it and didn't take the time to figure it out on the trail). They have you buy the cable seperate due to the different lengths they come in for rig size and routing needed. I also like the fact that I can lock the diff manually with a bolt setup if needed, where its a little hard to blow on a line enough to get it locked if you tear out a line.

    They both have pros and cons - for me the tipping point was ARB was haveing some quality issues at the time, so I went OX.
     
  10. May 29, 2012
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,538
    Roger that, Warloch. I really liked the idea of the manual shifting of the Ox. It was a tough call to make for me between the Ox and the ARB. The only thing I liked about the eLocker was the price. I think with smaller tires the eLocker might be fine. But guys running 35's and larger tires reported that it didn't provides positive lockup of both tires. I didn't want something that was an "almost" locker after running a LS for the last 10 years.
     
  11. May 30, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    12,529
    Just a suggestion. I'd upgrade the air line coming from the diff to the frame to something stronger than the plastic line. ARB makes an upgrade for this but you could probably use something else or have a heavy duty line made.
     
  12. May 30, 2012
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,538
    A friend of mine used stainless braid, but doesn't remember how he adapted it to the fitting on the diff. I "armored" my line by slipping the hard plastic line used for air brakes over it. And it's zip tied to my breather hose. Eventually I'll figure out how to go with the stainless braid.
     
  13. May 30, 2012
    '72CJ5

    '72CJ5 Member

    Modesto,...
    Joined:
    May 12, 2010
    Messages:
    980
    My buddy ran elockers in the front and rear of his '85 cj7. The rear locker for his model 20 was awsome from the git go and never had an issue with it (actually neither one ever slipped or unlocked on him) but the locker for the d30 would just stop locking all together like the switch went bad or somthing. Took it back in 3 times under warranty to have it fixed. All connections were good, switch good, and power at the diff so had no idea. After the third time it came back fine with no issues...but it was only wheeled a couple times before he got rid of the jeep. Now correct me if im wrong, but just like an elocker, if your ARB looses PSI such as a brocken line or pump failure, then it will just unlock and your back to a one legger right? Well, LS for the elock and open for the ARB...right?
     
  14. May 30, 2012
    jeepermc

    jeepermc Active Member

    Western WA
    Joined:
    May 25, 2011
    Messages:
    1,188
    I wouldn't. If you break an airline they are easily repaired with a new line or a line splice (think chinese finger trap) and when routed correctly it's very hard to hurt them. If you make that line stronger, I.E make it braided or otherwise, you move the weak point. How hard is it going to be to repair the bulk head fitting at the housing when your stronger line still gets snagged, but instead of breaking the line or getting pulled out at the fitting it rips the entire fitting out of the housing. Now, what would have been an easy repair with minimal easy to carry parts is not a easy trail fix anymore.
     
  15. May 30, 2012
    Ghetto Fab.

    Ghetto Fab. Member

    Atascadero, Ca.
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2005
    Messages:
    512
    http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Poly-Performance-ARB-Air-Locker-Stainless-Line-Kit-p-17502.html

    Not sure if that has special fittings or not, may just be a -3an line.

    When I get around to doing mine I'll probably run braided hose to the diff, but use steel hardline tubing on the frame and upper links. I also plan to use the pneumatic toggle switches instead of the solenoids to help eliminate failure points. From what I've seen and heard, if the diffs are set up correctly, most of the issues with ARBs are bad hose routing and solenoid/switch issues.

    Kevo
     
  16. May 31, 2012
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,538
    Good point.
     
  17. May 31, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    12,529
    Connection at the bulkhead is almost as strong as a brake hose. The plastic hose supplied is easy to kink or pull out/break.
    As was pointed out, routing is critical, but a simple piece of brush can ruin the day with the plastic hose.
    Each to their own of course.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  18. Jun 1, 2012
    jeepermc

    jeepermc Active Member

    Western WA
    Joined:
    May 25, 2011
    Messages:
    1,188
    You're kind of proving my point. You are right, the connection at the bulkhead is nearly as strong as a brake hose. If you attach something that's stronger than the plastic line you run the risk of pulling those fittings out of the housing and then your day might be ruined. I run my plastic line along the frame and down the brake line in the rear and down the breather hose in the front and have for about 12 years now. I have never had an issue with them. The jeep has been to moab twice, the rubicon, and countless brushy trails in the PNW. If you carry a splice( http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-2069382-arb-5mm-union-arb-170206.html ) and/or a piece of plastic line just in case, it's a lot quicker fix than replacing the bulkhead fittings. You also risk damaging the copper tubing off the seal housing if you pulled the fittings out. The will require complete disassembly of the diff and about $70 in order to replace the seal housing and your day is done. I'm tellin ya man...Spare air line and a splice is your best bet for the easiest repair if needed.

    Both hoses if routed correctly will likely never have an issue. But if an issue were to occur such as a broken driveline or suspension link or whatever taking out an air line....I'd rather splice the blue line back together and be done with it rather than need to replace the bulkhead fitting, the seal housing, pull the cover, mess with gear oil etc..
     
  19. Jun 1, 2012
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,538
    Thanks for the link jeepermc. Going to order one of those. I have a lot of blue line left over. It's going in my trail box.
     
New Posts