Frame Prepping (For POR-15)

I am restoring my frame, just bought some POR-15 with chassis black top coat along with POR-15 Prep chemicals (Marine Clean and Metal Prep). I hear POR-15 bonds stronger with roughed rusted surfaces than bare metal. My question is how should I prep my bare metal surfaces so it doesn't peel off? 60 grit sand paper? grinder? Epoxy primer? what about the welds? is there anything else i should consider or know?


Thanks

Lance

 

What do the directions say?

 

Directions say to remove loose rust particles, apply marine cleaner (degreaser), apply metal ready (maybe an etching?), apply por-15, then apply a uv protectant. I have heard some things about it not adhearing well to bare metal and was wondering if someone had any experience or advice preping the 'new' metal.

 

Well, you could prep the bright metal with epoxy primer, but it will likely interfere with a POR-15 bond to the rusty metal.

You're kind of stuck if you allow any rust to be under the paint - either accept the bond that the POR-15 gives you, or remove all the rust and use something else.

There are other "rust encapsulating" paints besides POR-15. I have used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, which seems to work well over both old painted and rusty surfaces. I believe any of the rust encapsulator paints are a form of moisture-cured urethane. They work by scavenging moisture from the rusty metal by incorporating it into the cure, and then they seal the metal from oxygen. The effectiveness of the seal depends on the pigment - some varieties use a powdered metal pigment, and claim a better seal because of it. You could try one of the other brands, such as the Hirsch Miracle Paint, Aluthane, Rust Bullet, Rust Encapsulator, and likely many more. But I think that, unless you reduce the entire frame to bright metal, you're just going to have to place your bets and take your chances. Even then, these paints are a patch-up solution, and won't last as long as a properly prepared substrate coated with an epoxy or etch primer and a quality top coat.

 

if your gonna box the frame to add saginaw or beef up the areas above the spring shackles better do it before

 

True, it seems the closer I get to painting the frame, I actually get further away. But I want to do everything right the first time. I also need to wait for my Holbrook springs to come in to get.

So things to do before paint. Need to repair frame. Need to get new hangers welded in. Also need to get powertrain in (for weight) for proper allignment of holbrooks. Anything else yall can think of? Just trying to get my ever expanding To-Do list in shape.

 

What do you recommend for top coat?

 

What about using a rust converter first if you are worried about the rust behind it, but look for the right one ( not at walmart) the good ones actually turn the rust to zinc for those places you cant get to or just to make sure the is no rust left behind all it takes is one spot of rust or moisture to get under and blister anything that u put on...also stay away from anything in a spray can that is used for any type of under coating ..anything in an aerosol can is not chemically strong enuf because it is an aerosol by law this is why your generic spray undercoating 9x out of 10 flake off

 

For future reference, I just found a POR-15 data sheet that had better information on it. As far as coating smooth metal

"APPLICATION PROCEDURES
Surface preparation: Rusted surfaces are best; seasoned metal and
sandblasted surfaces are also good. Surface must be dry and free of
grease, oil, or other foreign substances.
TO COAT SMOOTH METAL SURFACES: First use Marine Clean to
clean and degrease the surface, when clean rinse with water and allow
area to dry. Second spray Metal Ready on surface full strength, keep wet
for 15-20 minutes then rinse with water and allow to completely dry. Use
of “rust converter” products is not recommended as they may affect
bonding of POR-15 to metal. POR-15 likes to adhere to surfaces with
“tooth” rather than smooth, glossy surfaces"

here is the link
http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/POR15ApplicationInfo.pdf

 

i agree with 2 coats of POR especially if you are brushing it on... but if you wait til it has cured/dried all the way (past the post-it sticky stage/no paint on your finger) then you will need to scuff it before the 2nd coat..

i did mine with 2 coats of POR, 2 coats of 2X primer, and 2 coats of topcoat...

so far it holding up ok, but i am still in the rebuild stage and shes in the garage

check the last pix in the thread

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?95123-TexasBlues-Progress

WEAR GLOVES AND LONG SLEEVES!!! dont ask me how i know to tell you this

post pix :easy rider: