Dual Solenoid Winch Wiring (bellview)

I'm wondering how to wire up my Bellview. I do have the in-cab cable controls, but I want to wire in two Ford style solenoids. While the Bellview is only a power in winch, all the solenoid wiring diagrams i have seen are for power in and power out winches. I think i have to run two solenoids in line, but I need to figure out how to also have a remote switch so I have be outside when I'm re-spooling the cab. Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions?

I CAN use the in cab power cable to control the main jumper between the two winches. But again, I'd like to have a remote cable swithc like more modern models....

 

Do you have both of these pieces?


The knife switch hooks up to the inside controls, you could hook up a solenoid to by pass the knife switch for remore operation.

 

I have the knife swith, the cables and the mounting bracket. I was looking to add either a solenoid before or after two Ford style solenoids. That way I need the knife swith, plus i have a remote to use hands on in front of the vehicle whilst re-spooling. A remote swith will keep my fingers away from the working end of the tool.

 

Couldn't you eliminate the knife switch, and use a 12v switch to engage the solenoids to power the winch?
Then all you'd need is a 12v remote switch for outside operation?

 

I was thinking that you could wire in a solenoid, in parallel to the knife switch for your remote use.

 

Knife switch = manually operated cable activated solenoid. Not much to go wrong there now is there?
Please post up how you end up as I still have to do mine yetmehh

 

Everything i showed you is how my '69 Commando is set up for the Bellview winch.
As far as I know it's how they were installed then
Yep, the knife switch is a manual solenoid, A high amp solenoid....
You should be able to hook in an apropriate electric solenoid to parallel the job of the knife switch
I belive there is a thread from a few days ago that addresses the diff between starter solenoids and winch solenoids.
In my mind, it's an easy wire job.

 

As was said, wire in two solenoids parallel with the knife switch but the two solenoids in series with each other. I did this years ago on my '76 Scout Terra with that style winch. Worked very well. I made my own remote with some wire, a momentary contact switch, and made my own "handle" with some thin wall tubing. I used a trailer plug for the remote.
Reason for the two solenoids in series with each other is if you do have a failure of one solenoid (sticks closed) then the second solenoid will still shut off the winch.

 

I never installed the manual switch on the Warn 5721 on the 3B because I found a dash mounted push button was way more convenient to both use and locate, and generally less of a maintainance problem. I had that manual switch on the CJ5 and replaced it also with a solenoid. All you need to do for a remote is a parallel wired (to dash switch) momentary push button on the end of your remote cable and a 2 circut banana plug. Simpe and cheap.

As to using 2 solenids, I have been using singles on several Jeeps for close to 50 years now and have never had one stick closed. I have had several fail, but they all failed "open". That said, I do have a quick connect on the battery that would also address the issue, along with any other high amp shorts.

 

I have seen them fail in the closed position and it was a very ugly situation. Destroyed much of the winch, tore up a bumper, etc. It failed right as the cable was finished winding up. No way you're gonna get under the hood and disconnect the battery under those circumstances before damage is done. Even with a quick disconnect.

There are lots of ways to make a remote. The way I listed was simply one way that worked for me. It was about bulletproof, watertight, and cheap as I had most of it laying around.

 

I eleminated the knife switch and used solenoids and a puishbutton in place of the cable. Made a remote as Nick said.

 

OK, anybody got diagrams of wiring two solenoids in line????

 

did anybody get any diagrams for this hook up? i'm all finished with the install and need to wire it up. the cables i had gotten from a member here has a momentary toggle switch. what amp rating should that toggle be? i'm going to assume you wire the solenoid just like on a ford where the positive goes from battery to solenoid to winch and the wire from the toggle goes to the "I" terminal? i've read to not use the ford solenoids but to use one similar to a truck snowplow setup to handle the continuous cycle?

 

That should be simple........you do need to find a pair of solenoids that are rated for continuous duty and also a high DC amperage rating........they are out there....you just have to do your homework at the parts store or on-line to make sure what your buying fits the bill.........

This one is on E-Bay item number:281238740295 It says it is 150 Amp Continuous and 300 Surge. That is probably not enough as these winches will draw from 50 at low power to 500 AMPS under maximum rated pull.........so this reference to this Solenoid is just that although the type and configuration is correct.

I like to use two Solenoids.........one directly off of the + side of the Battery say a foot away mounted on the fender.......the main battery leads just go in & out the two large posts on either side of the Solenoid........the two small posts are the trigger wire to activate the Solenoid.....one is a Ground and the other is a Hot lead. I like to take the Hot trigger wire to a dash mounted separate stand alone key switch at my winch controls......this acts as the power on and unless the key is on no power can flow to the Winch from the battery...........I then take the second Solenoid and in a convenient place up front say near the grill but inside the engine compartment I mount the second Solenoid in line with the same Battery cable that is switched up stream from the key. From there you have many choices to connect the two small wires that will now activate the winch line once the power is turned on via the Key Switch..........I personally don't use a remote. What I do is take one wire back to the dash and mount a HD push button switch. Coming off the same terminal at the second Solenoid I put a second push button switch mounted inside the grill that you can easily reach from the front of the vehicle.............either one will now activate the winch once the key is on.......I would normally winch from inside the cockpit controlling both the on/off key switch and the push button line switch from the second Solenoid...........the second push button mounted inside the grill is there to conveniently use to wind the cable back up from the outside.........This dual Solenoid method also protects you in case one should ever fail or burn up............But I have never seen one go bad as long as you use the Heavy Continuous duty type Solenoids. I also like to crimp & solder the Large battery connections on to the heavy Battery cable as well as seal the ends with the correct heat-shrink material.........I have never had a problem with my winch and it has seen lots of use.
The knife type Warn switch is not needed.

If this is not clear and need a drawing I can help,if you like.

In this picture you'll see the early Warn dash panel for the Brake & Clutch and in the same panel you'll see the key switch.........just above it in the dash is a large round rubber covered Button that acts as the interrupt switch for line feed at the Winch. The button & cover for both were simply old style Peterbilt starter buttons..............very simple to operate from inside. Always lay a large towel , jacket or blanket over the cable when winching.

 

The Bellview is a pretty good winch, I have saved my sorry butt a time or two with it. 2 complaints however.
No power out and a few times the line speed has been faster than I wanted whle winching in. Yeah, I know, somebody complaining about the winch running too fast.
A thing I learned from the Warn rep, never let the motor run backwards, that is why the brake is on there.

 

thanks tarry....i would like a diagram if you don't mind. i like the idea of the key switch as a saftey. i would like to have one push button in the cab and one near the grill so i can run the winch on the outside too.

 

unca....i've seen my friends belleview in action and it will pull a house down and the freespool is nice and fast. i have 3 of these winches and will be putting one on my trailer and the other on my rock buggy.

 

Hi John,

Give me a day or two and I'll make you a drawing..........The Key switch in mine came about after I seen the results of kids playing in a Jeep and near tore the bumper off with the winch still attached.
I'll try to find a link to the push buttons I used also..........but the most important part is the Continuous duty High Amperage Solenoid...........Not sure how much you use your brake on yours but there is a fellow out here not far from me that makes a CNC billet brake handle........that doesn't fail or brake like the old cast aluminum one's did.

Terry

 

tarry,
thanks a million

 

I realize you are wanting wire you winch with solenoids rather than using the factory knife switch. I thought I would post the original diagram and parts list of the winch which includes the wiring. The print are not the best quality but can still be read. Your solenoids would be either in parallel or replace the knife switch depending on what you want.





I chose to do things a little differently considering when I asked Darrel at the last Moonshiner Swap Meet if he had a Warn controller, he said he just sold it. I installed 2 heavy duty switches (1 manual & 1 solenoid) and made a long electrical control cable to activate the solenoid. I also purchased manual brake and gear control cables at McMaster Carr. With the manual switch I do not need to worry about the winch being accidently activated.