'74 CJ6 lift question?

OK, I've done a search here and can't find what I'm looking for. I plan on fitting 35x12.5x15"s under this thing eventually but I want to keep the COG as low as possible. What would be the recommended lift combo for these tires considering I have no issues with trimming or cutting the fenders?
Also, how different are the springs used on post '75 CJ's ? would it be possible to fit them under my jeep without too much fabrication? Or are there any donor vehicles I could steal the springs off?

Thanks,
Robb

 

My old roomate had an m38a1 with bfg 35x12.50s. He had a 2.5" lift and 1" body lift and with slight trimming to the rear portion of the rear fender they fit ok. If your not affraid to cut then you really shouldn't have a problem.

I think the post 75s had wider leaf springs. Early springs are like 1 1/2" or 1 3/4", whereas the later springs are 2" to 2 1/2" or so. You would need all new mounts etc.... Of course you can buy off the shelf mounts and just weld them on.

Kevo

 

I'm not too sure about body lifts. Are there any adverse effects with a one inch body lift. I know wouldn't want more than that. And how about shackle lifts. Would that be recommended?

robb

 

I am running 31s on my 75. I have probably 1" of suspension lift, and 1" body lift. When I take corners, it feels as though I am going to tip over. After doing alot of searches, I think the problem is that my body lift mounts are too soft.

 

Thanks Mugzilla, I'll probably stay clear of body lifts if that's the case.
Robb

 

I used ones that are somewhat compressible. I am also committing a cardinal sin: Driving my CJ to find all the loose parts!

A few extra ft-lbs might help. Also, I may need sway bars. Remember, my Jeep is a total poser Jeep that I am too afraid to take offroad!

 

I ran a 4" Superlift w/ 33" TSL's and had to trim my rear fenders just a little to keep from rubbing. Problem was the articulation sucked, not near enough flex. No increased body roll, but rode like a tank.
Now I run a spring over utilizing YJ springs, a 1.5" body lift (hard composite), shackles that are just a tad longer, but a lot stronger than the stock ones. Problem was the articulation was really good. So I had to custom make my bump stops, longer shocks, really trim my rear fenders, and "flat fender" the front. I could clear 36" tires(next purchase) at full flex with a little adjustment in my stops.
My beater is a budget rock crawler only, not much money, not much street, so I dont know if this helps much.
By the way, the SOA lift cost more and took three times as long to put on than the 4" Superlift.

 

Thanks for the info OKjeepin. Do you have any pictures of your jeep? I was planning on goingfor the "flat fender" look and would love to see yours.
Robb

 

I am running 4.5" lift HD springs from Rubicon Express on my 72 CJ-5. These are the 2.5" wide CJ springs on the rear and 2.5"wide Cj conversion springs on the front (76~86 had 2.5 inch wide springs in the rear and 2" wide springs in the front. 75 and earlier were 1 3/4" wide springs.) These springs have excellent articulation.

With the new spring hangers I have approximately 5" of suspension lift and no body lift. I had to trip the rear fenders to clear the 35x12.5 MTRs. I found out in Moab I need to trim the front fenders too. I managed to stuff the driver front up so much it bent the fender flare on a turn. Guess I am gong to have to look at bump stops soon. All the parts I used for my conversion were bought off the shelf.

More information on this can be found on my Jeep Project Site. I have posted pics in the garage thread showing the articulation.

 

HudsonHawk, Thanks for the link to your page. Very helpful. Are the spring hangers bolt on or weld? I'm not sure I want that much lift. Do you think it would be possible to fit 35's if I trim more.

Robb

 

First remember that it is SUA no SOA. As it is I stuff my rears up almost to the top of the fender wells in the rear and need to trim the fronts to keep the tires out of them. 35's will work fine but it depends on what you will be doing. In my case, I consider the 5 inches of lift to be barely enough. But I am doing some really hard core stuff with it.

 

I'm using a 2.5" BDS springs and a cut down MORE shackle reversal. I've got 33X10.5 Swamper SSR's on skinny (7") wheels with a widetrack D30 in front. The back has never rubbed but stuffs way up in the wheelwell. The front rubbed on the springs with the narrow track axle and now rubs the front fender slightly at full flex. Easily fixed with bump stops if I get around to it.

 

Ilike the pro comp lift 4 inch, it will clear 35s and with a little trimming would be very clear at full flex. Great on road drive great off road performance and good flex. It was a tight little lift that just felt really solid.

 

Here is a pic from our Moab Trip. Show you how well the RE springs articulate. This is with 35" tires. This was taken going down Rusty Nail.

 

One comment about the stock springs - I don't think I'm contradicting anybody here.

In 1976, the rear of the CJ frame was widened at the same time that the springs were made wider and softer. The Jeepster Commando had softer, wider springs in the rear, and they were outboarded from the frame by about 6" IIRC. Two OEM suspension packages were available before '76 - standard (5 leaves) and heavy duty (10 or 11 leaves). The standard suspension rode better, but the body height was also lower, so the body roll was about the same for both types. You need to limit body roll - body roll means wieght transfer, and weight tranfer causes rollovers. Shocks only dampen - ie, slow down, weight transfer, they don't stop it.

My point is: the stiff springs control body roll. Softer, longer springs are flexy on the trail, but if you have to drive your Jeep on the street, a simple replacement with flexy springs may not be what you want. I'd expect there is also some effect on low-speed side-hill angle, but I don't have the knowledge or experience to analyze it. I have not looked into this, but I'd guess the best of both worlds would be either outboarding the springs or adding sway bars for the highway, along with the flexy springs. Either of these methods will help control body roll.

My theory is this is all driven by tire technology. There's been a trend since the '70s to longer-wider-flexier Jeeps, with much taller and wider tires. I'd expect a lot of this trend results from the need for streetable vehicles (ie Jeep builds cars, not dedicated off-road vehicles) and the release from the short, narrow tires we think of as OEMs on early CJs. I haven't driven a TJ, but they seem to do the job, while remaining useable as a daily driver.

 

Well said. I have always held that you need to have a definate goal in mind when you start modifying these vehicles. And you have to be willing to accept compromises in areas to get them to perform better in others.

My goal has always been a good trail vehicle that could be driven on the road if need be. I am willing to live with the mediocre on-road manners to get a good trail vehicle.