I hope it's ok to post this here. I know it's not necessarily a Jeep fabrication thread, but it is a tool that can be used for Jeep fabrication. Maybe we could add a tooling topic to the forum :? I initially was posting a lot of this stuff HERE but I decided to just start a new thread detailing what I did to modify the strength of this tool, from start to finish, and to allow it to be used by one person. The HF BEAD ROLLER KIT leaves a lot to be desired in stock form. When trying to roll a bead on 16 gauge it flexes more than a body builder at a body building competition. I basically just used some material I had laying around to add some to it. I'll let the pics do most of the talking. Here's a list of what I used. From Grainger 1. Shaft coupler body---------P/N 6X071----Qty. 1 2. Shaft coupler body---------P/N 4X193----Qty. 1 3. Insert Buna-N--------------P/N 1X407----Qty. 1 4. Switch Foot SPDT 15A------P/N 2W810---Qty. 2 From Ebay DAYTON GEARMMOTOR * Model 2Z797B * F/L Torque 450 in lbs * RPM 2.8 * Ratio 1787:1 * Volts 115 * Amp 1.3 * HP 1/15 * SF 1.0 * A/C Right angle gear motor From Home Depot Large J-box and cover Stuff I already had Nuts, bolts, screws, timer and block. I used a timer to operate the motor in reverse, only because I didn't have a relay. You could just use a standard 8 pin relay. One foot pedal is for reverse, the other is forward. Took me some time to figure out how to wire it all up. Nothing smoked so I guess I did it right. The round tubing is 1 3/4" .120 wall tubing. The square tube is just 2" .120 wall tubing. The Lovejoy coupling on the bead roller itself is a 1" ID. Well of course the HF Bead Roller shaft is smaller than that (.998 I think) so it fits kind of loose. What I did to help remedy the wobble situation, was to put 2 additional screws in at 120* apart, and tighten them equally. It works sufficient enough for a slow speed, light use operation. Here's how it starts.