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69 Dauntless Project - the 'Heep'

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Danefraz, Sep 12, 2012.

  1. Sep 12, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Sponsor Sponsor

    Chico CA
    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2012
    Messages:
    1,822
    I found this little machine at an auction.

    My wife said it needed a lot of love. Thus the name 'Heep'. (I spelled it wrong on purpose!).

    This is the first impulse buy of a vehicle I've made in 20+ years, and I've had opportunity to get some cool stuff at cool prices. My first restoration.
    But I guess it's a restoration with minor-mods in mind...

    I'm thinking restore and sell, but I see how a guy could get attached... she's not what I'd call Carrie, but still speaks to you when you twist bolts and nuts.

    It is papered, and I have it on a non-op. Registered as a '69. Pedigree is solid, but she's not house broken yet and lives in the back yard.

    It was on a non-op for 25+ years or so when I found it.

    She says she has just under 28k miles, and it looks like it was a 'ranch' jeep. I'm still researching to see if I'm the second owner, but it seems like so.

    Digging through the VIN, she's still a 'universal', not a fancy upgrade.
    It seems there's three layers of paint on her, the original isn't to be found.

    Dash is complete and not mangled. I would like to add a volt-meter and an appropriate TACH, but that might be contrary to the resto-mod and hurt things more.

    The model/color plate on the firewall indicate: Spruce Tip Green. She'll be that in the end.

    I'll match this hard top from okie-chrome to a nice tan to work with the Spruce-Tip Green.

    Frame-Off and sandblasting is in the future: this winter.

    I just upgraded the coil to the Igniter (40k volts of love), and I'm looking for a Delco distributor so I can use my Pertronix ignition kit. Someone here is helping me with that.

    I've spent a weekend or two with a pressure washer blasting off the caked-baked-and-greased grime from the engine and undercarriage where I could get to it.

    The body mounts, long gone, were replaced by the folks that had her with 'conveyor' belt. She's not sitting quite square on the frame, not yet...

    While she's 'all original' in mechanics as far as I can tell, save for the custom wheels, I'm looking at only electronic changes right now.

    I will be adding:
    Northwest Wire Loom and lights wiring. She's got wires in very bad shape.
    I'll add a 12si alternator after that.

    the Dauntless is daunting. New spark plugs last weekend and a compression check along the way:
    1 - 125
    2 - 128
    3 - 135
    4 - 138
    5 - 140
    6 - 145

    She runs strong and clean now that I've rebuilt the original 2g small base carb. Still little puffs of smoke that I can fix with new valve guide seals I've already picked up.

    I have the original oil-bath air cleaner, and the dauntless stickers are still nice.

    I think the black 'poly' body and other bushings are in order and I've got a kit in mind.

    I may put longer shackles on her with a few more zirk fittings (we all know there are already a shortage of them).

    Only major rust I could find was an inch in size or so in the lower tailgate seam - and I can fix that with a little naval jelly and a wire brush.
    I've already fixed the rust in the tool box under the passenger seat: it was naval jelly and a wire brush to the rescue and some good etching primer.

    The brakes, well, you have to be strong to use them, and the brake lights don't want to work. I have new senders for that.
    The original turn signal, it only likes to make right-hand turns, so oval tracks are out...

    I'm pulling hubs soon (but deer season opens this weekend, so a three-weekend project hiatus is likely), inspecting brakes, etc.

    She does have the Dana 27 and 44 running gear with the T-86 and late d-20 transfer. 4.88s are the name. The Warn premium hubs are clean and ding free.
    Looking at things, I don't think she's had these parts ever pulled or inspected (tags still where they belong, and will be replaced when done).

    The vacuum under-dash button style heater control is missing a button and the fan knob. I can fab some of those with my dremel and jb-weld if necessary.
    Seems, as someone mentioned they're made of 'unobtanium' and 'impossibiliuim', found only on ebay for gross amounts if in NOS condition.
    (but now I have pictures... buuuwaaahhhhaaaaa). I'll re-work and clean this controller when I have her all stripped down.

    The PO moved the fuel tank to the rear, and put the filler in the reverse light hole. Works for me,
    but I'm thinking of adding a second back under the seat, that way I can make use of the existing hole there for something other than a
    pneumonia vent.

    Her clutch is in the 30% near the top currently, so I'll get under and see if I can adjust it down.

    I've pulled out the optional accessory S&W rifle/shotgun floor mounted holder (I have a use for it, but may not elect to - and it needs resto work also), it and the air pump/air pump manifolds(rusted solid) and the oil-bath air cleaner are in a box for posterity.

    As I pull bolts off, I'm considering replacing all the body bolts with stainless equivalents. Not sure how the 'purist' feels about that, but man is it easier to turn them later.

    For the Hard-top: I like it, someone put RV windows in the top, so I have dual-windows up there, which vent to the rear. I will add some reinforcement
    to the top, may be carpet the interior for sweat prevention, and then add modular rack to the top I'm thinking of fabing up / building.

    Comments and suggestions appreciated. I've enjoyed reading here, and I like that it's a positive home for like-minded folks to share stories, advice, tell lies and embellish the truth.

    I will be posting a few pictures as time permits. I'll try and keep a list of the albums I post here if anyone is interested in watching.

    Amended...
    I found the PO today. Good people. Family bought it in the 70s and were second owners. Was case-tractor yellow then. Repainted it blue years ago to blue. Original odometer barfed around 25k. The new one reads just under 28k. Still a good deal for miles to age, at 53k or so. PO has the original gas tank in the shed. I'd like to think I want it. Hope the filler, etc is with it.
    Found out why it doesn't like to stop... The brake fluid was replaced with ATF to keep things from rusting while it sat so much... Good to know... Work is now defined for brake system.



    Pictures found here for now:
    http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/album.php?albumid=678
    http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/album.php?albumid=679
    http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/album.php?albumid=680
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2012
  2. Sep 12, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs. Sponsor

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    11,377
    Welcome!
    Looks like a pretty clean Jeep with lots of potential. There have been a few mods already. The vent looking thing in the cowl is not stock. Nor would the 20 transfer case be correct as you noted. Are you sure it's a 20 and if so did the rear end get changed too? The 20 has a centered rear output and requires a centered rear diff. The 18 rear output is offset to the passenger side as would be the original rear end.

    Honestly, if you plan on restoring it and making money, stop right now. You might be able to make a few bucks by simply making it run good, getting paperwork in order, and cleaning/shining it up bit if you got it for a good price. Unfortunately everyone I know that's restored one has ended up losing money. These old Jeeps just don't bring a premium like a '68 Camaro or '65 Mustang do. Might do some research on that.
    Personally I'd get it running and drive it. See if you like it. If not, you can always sell it before sinking a ton of money into it. Just my 2 cents worth.
     
  3. Sep 12, 2012
    tomatolane

    tomatolane Lane

    Chattanooga...
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2012
    Messages:
    465
    yeah grats on your find !

    And good luck with your build
     
  4. Sep 12, 2012
    tomatolane

    tomatolane Lane

    Chattanooga...
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2012
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    465
    Love the hardtop also Is it a Meyers ? top

    And hey what do you mean by RV windows the pop up kind you crank to open?
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2012
  5. Sep 12, 2012
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    Black on the carb may not have been the best choice. Black absorbs heat big time and could possibly cause fuel to heat soak.
     
  6. Sep 12, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Sponsor Sponsor

    Chico CA
    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2012
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    Hey guys!

    Excellent stuff, thanks for the notes.

    Yes, my bad on the Transfer case ... it's passenger side aligned - correct oil-dripping box for the vehicle. I have picts from under too. Coming soon.

    I'm still learning the numbers and acronyms... I've only been reading Jeep for a couple months, and haven't yet started to coherently speak it (it happens when you lurk in the corners for a while).

    I have had a ball with it so far, and it's only made a few trips around the neighborhood... mostly low-tech diversion from the daily grind.

    I thought about red on the carb, but... I had a quality can of high-heat black handy. Will see what it does when the temps crest into the tripple digits here in the summer. Seemed good last weekend in the 90's when I had it idling for an hour and then spun it around the neighborhood.

    Not looking for a 'mint' to make, but to be modest with the finds and fixes, document the process, turn off my IT business and job (and do something more caveman like) that doesn't require computers, cell phones or other technology.

    I've been wondering about the vent cowl on the front: I can't find the opener, front of vehicle, under dash, anywhere. I suppose I'll find it when I get to the wiring and pull the dash. WE had a 53 ford ton-and-half flat bed that had a scoop with a lever when I was a lad. It was better than the wind-wings that sucked bumble bees into the cab...

    BTW: I just need to jiggle the wires through the firewall to short 'em out and kill the motor: they're already melted in places, this as much as the brakes is a safety thing I'll be fixing (no wire fires for me please).

    There are a few things I have to do first before it's truely safe for the roads:
    Brakes, axles and wires.

    The axles have a vibration: stirred by it, not shaken. Seems to blend with the other rattles and noises at 40-50mph, but at 15-20, it's readily apparent.

    I think it's in the rear as the tires are wearing like it's got a locker in it, a posi, or a mangled mess... I'm hoping a little marvel mystery and a short drive to loosen the crud, pull the cover, drain, inspect and refill is all I have to do...

    But that's not how Murphy or his other relatives roll with me:
    Brakes need inspection, they're not power by any means, but they are mighty hard... I'll know more soon.

    I have a line on an SM420, but I'm not sure if I need a T-case adapter, and well, it's the granny low I long for ... but again, it's more than I'm willing to change before it's a driver...
     
  7. Sep 12, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Sponsor Sponsor

    Chico CA
    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2012
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    Shaker Can-o-Paint

    Guys, I'm looking at some buick motor paint equivalents, but I'm having a problem finding a good match.

    Rustoleum makes a 'dimpled green' that's close, but it's more of an RCBS green (for those of you with a 2A reloading hobby). I tried it with a white primer under, and it's not too bad, but not quite as brite as the faded, greasy former green I have existing.

    I can't find plasti-kote locally and I hear their shaker can is a darn good close one...

    Thoughts
     
  8. Sep 12, 2012
    sieg

    sieg Sponsor Sponsor

    bartonville IL
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2010
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    welcome congrats on your "heep" I also have 69 cj5 but mine has the 134 f head if you need pics of anything just pm me
     
  9. Sep 12, 2012
    tinpan

    tinpan New Member

    Derby NY
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2010
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    49
    T A Performance sells the Buick Dauntless green engine paint in rattle cans . Good match .
     
  10. Sep 12, 2012
    tinpan

    tinpan New Member

    Derby NY
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2010
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    T A Performance sells the Buick Dauntless green engine paint in rattle cans . Good match .[​IMG]
     
    Hellion likes this.
  11. Sep 12, 2012
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

    Tulsa, OK
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    Welcome from Oklahoma.
    If you stainless to stainless hardware, make sure you put anti-sieze on the threads or they can gall and get stuck- they then have to be cut off. I used stainless bolts on mine but in combo with grade 5 or 8 nuts, not stainless.

    What is Okie-chrome?

    Also, I think you mean Christine, not carrie. Although as weird and cantankerous as old jeeps are either would work.
     
  12. Sep 12, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs. Sponsor

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
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    Homersdog, "Okie chrome" is rattle can "chrome" paint. Also called "Mexican chrome" and other pejorative names. Most of the names popped up in the 70's when trying to get the chrome look cheaply became popular. Particularly by various ethnic groups. Commonly used on bumpers, etc.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  13. Sep 12, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Sponsor Sponsor

    Chico CA
    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2012
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    Gah! Apologies here... I live in such a PC world that one did not ever hit my effective filter... Apologies to all.

    My mental library has a dewy decimal system and I only know google indexing... Somewhere between Christine and knight rider... Cars with their own mind... The jeep has a calling.

    Gramps always grabbed the rattle can-o-chrome to put some life, or , er... Something to what ever was under the sprayer.

    Anything I have ever tired to do with it ended up looking like the wheelbarrow clumped with cement and sprayed with aerosolized chrome...

    See the valve cover breather in the pict I have of the carb mounted in black... Awful, but you wouldn't believe how much I prepped that thing... Rattle can...$6. Vintage, rusty breather... Two-bits. An hour of scour, brush and polish... Awful memory... Priceless. Chrome replacement, $12.99... Timeless.

    D
     
  14. Sep 12, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Sponsor Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Thread anti seize is good stuff. I use it all the time, unless blue or red thread lock is called for...
     
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  15. Sep 12, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Sponsor Sponsor

    Chico CA
    Joined:
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    I think it is a Meyers by looking at the hatch-back/camper shell style rear lid. I'll get more Picts...

    The RV pop up windows might be misnomered... More like the side windows you'd see popped out on a club cab style pickup, but these have a heavy rubber seal.

    Id like to find a prop stick for it, or some heavy hydraulics for it as the thing weighs a ton when you're trying to hold it over your head.
     
  16. Sep 13, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Sponsor Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    I'm still not completely postitive it's made by meyers, but I like the windows... you can see them here now:
    http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/album.php?albumid=680
     
  17. Sep 13, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Sponsor Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    OK, from the under pictures...
    FRONT AXLE:
    Dana 44 Rear tag:
    915773 4.89 S 44-9

    I understand this to be: 915773 = Model 44, tapered axle shafts, 4:89 ratio, with power-lok differential; also the axle tube thickness is 7/32" and a 44-9 ring/pinion teeth count. Admittedly, I stole this snippet from another site: so a hard reference would be appreciated rather than an assumption it's correct.

    FRONT: Dana 27A
    941c52 4.88 and 39-8

    FROM the Transfer Case:
    Dana: tag numbers: 300146-10 947384

    I haven't scraped or blasted enough grease off the rest of stuff to find any other important numbers.

    If anyone has any insight to the six-digit tag numbers on the axles, I love to know more.
     
  18. Sep 13, 2012
    68BuickV6

    68BuickV6 Well-Known Member

    Chino, CA.
    Joined:
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    2,013

    I like having a sunroof like that, it helps keep the temperatures down when the car is parked. fb
     
  19. Sep 13, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs. Sponsor

    Happy Valley, OR
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    I never rely on tags. After 30-50 years they can get swapped around. Pull the cover and inspect to see what you really have. Been burned by tags too many times as have my customers.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  20. Sep 24, 2012
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Sponsor Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    This weekend was full of chores around the house. Grass, bushes and weeds. What fun.

    Heep had a vibe... Not the cool kind, but the kind where the knobs on the rear tires were wearing on the power edge so to say... Axle plates stated rear was a powr-loc. Probably skipping around turns.

    Verified two wheel lockup by dumping the clutch in a field for a few feet.

    Time to pull the covers and see. Fingers crossed... No metal in oil....

    Pulled rear, not too bad. Smelled like 90 wt.... Dirty 90.

    Wiped, cleaned and wiped more. Love this beast as I can one-arm roll it around while blocking wheels with a chock while under it and looking for problems in the diff. Took a few pictures. Will post soon. Naval jelly and wire brush to the cover exterior, rescue. New seal, new oil, a tube of additive and a ride around the neighborhood. No vibration from the rear... Sounds good.

    oh, dumping clutch again, works too, but it releases! No weird wobble-whirrr running at 40 down the road...

    Pulled the diff cover off the front. How many times have folks drained oil and had it come out some color that isn't 90wt, but a very dirty O.D. Green almost? Doesn't smell much like 90... There was so much crud in the bottom of the case. Gears look good.

    What is the term for 90wt mud?

    Anyway.. Fresh paint on the cover, a new cover seal, clean 90wt and all seems well.

    And for a bonus... All the numbers inside match the plates outside. Woooo-hooooo.

    Will post picts this evening.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2012

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