'63 CJ6 Perkins Rebuild

Mine is cable driven off the back of the motor. I checked this evening and snapped some pics I will post in the morning. The hole through the firewall isn't all that pretty but it's driven directly off the back of the motor and the cable is probably no longer than 16". Hour meter is "hours at 1389 rpm"....lol...pretty random number.

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Idles about 1k. Cruise on 90 is beyond the tachs capability by numbers. It only goes to 2500. I would guess about 3k or so at 60mph. Probably is an average.

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Thanks for the pics Mitch

 

Yeah.. I had to have all the seats recovered. 37 years in a field in Eastern Washington was an oven in the summer and shelter for critters in the winter......It was pretty gnarly and delicate at the same time inside...

The adapter looks like it just bolts to the back of the motor. It's on the "righter side" of the block. Can't see the back of the block there since it's so close to the firewall. It's just a hole someone punched in the firewall for the adapter off the back of the motor to come through. Is there a spot on your block for a tach adapter to bolt to where mine is?

 

That plate with 4 bolts on the right just below the head has to be where the adapter is bolted onto mine.

 

The end of the cam shaft is behind that four bolt cover. If that's where your cable goes, you have a completely mechanical tachometer.

See the lift pump directly to the right? It runs off a lobe on the cam so this confirms the cam's location along that side of the block. There must be a different (or modified) plate which is an adaptor. I have very limited backup materials on my end. A workshop manual would be a good thing right about now Mitch!

 

Oh yeah. It's definitely fully mechanical. Knew that after i looked at the back of it. Its gotta be tractor stuff entirely. I know what ya mean about manuals. I do all my work in the back yard unless i can do it quickly at work. You have all the manuals that i do at this point. Luckily the only odd stuff is the engine. Almost everything else is standard jeep.

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Any progress on this one lately??

 

Ok, after a lengthy sabbatical I'm back to the build. I had work obligations and we moved to southern CT. It took some doing but I now have an acceptable workshop (although a bit small). We still have our NH property where I'm able to store my projects, so I removed the body and brought it down to our CT place. Here's where I stand;



Front and rear floors are the biggest concern. Poking around a bit more, I did discover that the hat channels on the passenger side are in pretty good condition (there's only one 8" rusty patch).



The front riser and tool box had to come out completely. This was quite a bit of work to remove and not damage the supports of the center floor but the plasma cutter really helped.



I decided to cut 3/4" off along the length of the center floor just above the front riser. The edge of the floor was way to mangled after removing the riser. It will be easy enough to patch in a 1.5" piece of 18 gauge bent at 90 degrees.



I'm gradually learning the differences in anatomy between the CJ5 and CJ6. Below is a stiffener that was spot welded in to strengthen the area that the two side body panels meet. I needed to fab a replacement for the rusted on on the passenger side.



The new riser test fit. It took some wiggling but I'm happy with it. The riser is from Classic Enterprises....they will have my business again in the future.



I still need to get things cleaned up and holes drilled for plug welds but I'm glad to have this part behind me.



I'm not moving this tub an inch before getting this new riser welded up. It's not very stable in it's current state.



It feels good to be back in the game!

 

Cool. Good to see you back at it. Mine's still running. Just been driving it.

 

I seem to remember tractors having an operating rpm like that to maintain the standard PTO rpm.

 

OK, back to it.

I fabbed up this little brace which strengthens the two main side panels. My little Eastwood brake is very useful. There was rust through on this part of the outer body which needed to be dealt with.



Drilled holes for plug welds.



Drilled holes in riser for plug welds.



Installed brace between riser and side panel. Made sure everything is in line. Measuring and measuring again.....



Welded in......



Very happy with result.



I didn't take as many pics as I should before cutting out the back part of the floor, so question; does the floor get welded beneath the riser or do I make a 90 degree bend upwards and weld to the front facing part of the riser?

If I had to guess, the best way to proceed is to get the tranny hump fabbed and welded to the riser, working my way outwards to replace the floors. I've tried to be very careful with things lining back up and keeping twisting of the body to a minimum.

Bought a very handy mini needle scaler from HF for $23.00 (I had a 25% off coupon). For such a small price tag, it was worth it and I highly recommend. My smallish compressor keeps right up with it.



Makes very fast work of removing 50 year old undercoating and rust, especially in hard to reach corners. This whole section below took about 20 minutes, The grey primer beneath is still in fine shape.

 

The floor on the 6 will not disassemble the same way the factory assembled them........there are overlapping panels that hide spot welds below.......you just have to pick a path that works for you while still keeping with whatever rigidity and integrity was once there........

 

Terry, it sounds like you've dealt with this situation before. This is past me and it was not pleasant.

My question is should the back of the front floors weld directly underneath the riser? Or should I create a 90 degree bend upwards to meet the front face of the riser? I believe it should attach below the riser but I wanted to confirm.

Pete

 

Pete , have you seen my build?..............take a look , plenty of pictures, including the area your asking about...........the floor panel should extend flat to the rear and attache ( spot welded ) to the already provided 90 degree flange in that formed upright. http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/making-my-cj-5-into-a-cj-6-ii.107335/page-12

 

The pictures speak a thousand words. You answered my question. It's been a while but I've read every word to you thread. Quite impressive.

Many thanks....

 

Hi Peter-
Any idea who rebuilt the pump and injectors? I think at the very least my pump needs some work at this point and it would make sense to do the injectors at the same time. I've had some pretty wild quotes on both ends of the spectrum of cost..... all the way up to about $1800 to rebuild just the pump.... I'm also wondering if I may need a new head gasket as I seem to have developed a slow coolant leak down the inside of the firewall recently. Need to pull the floorpans and inspect the freeze plug at the back of the block first.