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49'ish Cj2a- "motorboat"

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by IRQVET, Jan 25, 2020.

  1. Jan 25, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Oregon
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    I sold the 67 ECJ5, but now I have a new project.

    This is my first post about my first flatty. I'm three weeks on this project and believe me, it's a project. I acquired a 1948 Cj2a (first sold and titled in California in early 1949) so its titled as a 1949, and it followed me home in January 2020 . . .

    Seller was asking $3,000 but I talked him down to $1,700 as it wasn't running, and it didn't have the correct the engine. Which was just a negotiation technique as it had a military motor which IMHO only added to it's value. Seller claimed it might have a blown head gasket, and a faulty starter.

    Moving forward, I dragged it back to the house and started to look at it. Initially, based on serial numbers I could partially see behind the oil bath, the engine serial number started with #GPXXXX which I initially thought was a WW2 Ford GPW engine (kinda cool) as their serial numbers start with GPWXXX vs Willy's MB's that start with MBXXXX.

    Few days later, after removing the oil bath, I got a better look at the engine serial number, and as things turned out, it wasn't a military GPW engine but instead a Ford GPA engine built for Amphibious craft during WW2. After further research, it showed the engine was casted on December 1, 1943. Which meant it was 8,924 out of 12,778 built during WW2. o_O

    Now I have been flammed by purest's who feel I should not run the GPA in my CJ. I have done a search through the GPA registration database to see if there was numbers matching GPA somewhere to no avail. Most likely the body was scrapped years ago after the war, so the engine is most likely the only trace left that it ever existed. My cousin who is a huge into the WW2 scene has already made a run to try to take it off hands due to its rarity. But I decided to keep it as I might reuse it later in WW2 project down the road.

    So this build will be two-fold. I will try to pay homage too two different types of vehicles (Civilian and Military) during this build in the best way I know how. This CJ2a was pretty straight and nobody had cutted it up, modified it, or bubbafied it (for the most part). As far as the engine is concerned, its a GPA block and oiling system chocked full of CJ assessories and parts. So that will corrected so it's as original of a GPA engine as I can possiblely make it. (Which will not be cheap. As it requires alot of Ford f-scripted parts)

    The frame, tool box, and hat channels all have rust and need some love. My Hobart 210 MPV will be on standby as it will be drafted into action this summer.

    Now I am no expert on hybrid (civilian v. military) builds. So this will be a slow moving build as I educate myself because I don't want to screw up either aspect. Now many people have asked me why not just sell the engine to fund the rest of the Cj build. And that is a good question. Honestly, I like anything different, so blending the best of both worlds suits me just perfect. (I love both sides of the Willy's history, civilian v. militaria)

    Scope of this project will be returning back to a stock'ish configuration. This will not be a rock crawling/ rubicon rig; more like a parade/ weekend trail warrior.

    Let me introduce "Motorboat", let the blasphemy begin . . .
     

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    Last edited: May 24, 2020
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  2. Jan 25, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Oregon
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    First order of business was to heat and scrap all the DIY spray on bed liner applied by the P.O. Undercovering all the rust, demons, and patch panels and gauge where we're at . . . tool box and hat channels are roached. Back half of the frame channels aren't much better. Might have an MD Juan replacement in my future. :n:

    I will be stripping the body all spring while simultaneously assessing the engine issues. . . My plan is to get it driving under its own power. Cruise it this summer with the fam, and then blow it apart and start the restoration process in the fall. Thats my plan at least . . .
     

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    Last edited: May 24, 2020
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  3. Jan 26, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Oregon
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    About $800 in new parts from G503 and Joe's Motor Pool.

    Mostly Ford military parts to replace the CJ stuff on the engine; a master brake rebuild kit, a master engine gasket kit, and some positive crankcrase PVC stuff, NOS f-script valve cover, and an f-script water pump. Like I said, this build will be a tad expensive with correct f-script replacement parts if its to be done right.

    Continued stripping the bed liner, and made my first Bondo discovery on the rear corner. Its a good thing I have some surplus sheet metal laying around the garage from the CJ5 build. :censored:
     

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    Last edited: Jan 26, 2020
  4. Jan 26, 2020
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    I think that was great deal at $1,700! Why would anyone complain about putting a GPA engine back to work when most of the GPA's were scrapped long ago? Just ignore the nay sayers, you are doing good work!
     
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  5. Jan 26, 2020
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2020 Sponsor

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    I think you got a good deal. The GPA engine is a crazy thing to find. Carry on!
     
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  6. Jan 26, 2020
    PeteL

    PeteL Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    I say build a bathtub around it. Viola... new GPA.
     
    IRQVET likes this.
  7. Jan 26, 2020
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    I'd say you got a very good deal if there isn't a lot of bondo hiding under the paint, floor issues or not.
     
  8. Jan 26, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Oregon
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    I'm pretty sure it has alot of Bondo. Its pushing 71 years old after all. :lol:

    I'll strip off the bondo, heat it up and shrink the metal and try to get those panels straight again.

    This fall when I pull the tub, I'll gauge the rust issues with the back half of the frame. Mrs. IRQVET already approved of the purchase of an MD Juan replacement frame if need be. (y)
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2020
  9. Jan 26, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Oregon
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    Removed the tool box today.

    If anyone has replaced a riser and the forward portion of an entire floor, and you have and hindsight 20/20, please let me know. Replacing a floor is not something I've tackled before so I'm all ears. Also because my trans tunnel might not be able to be salvaged. Still assessing the damage there but I'm thinking under that bed liner is a patchwork quilt. Some have said the kit from Classic Enterprises is suppose to be higher quality than others . . . :shrug:
     

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  10. Jan 26, 2020
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power 2019 Sponsor

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    In the interim, I would be looking for a good used 3A frame. It was a really decent improvement over the 2A version and pretty much identical to the 3B frame (which would also work). Daryl?????
     
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  11. Jan 30, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Oregon
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    Normally I would, but I'd like to keep both aspects of this build as period correct as possible with all stock/ factory replacement parts. I'm trying to source as many NOS parts as possible, and for those I cannot locate, I'll go for repop parts. If I was going another direction with this build, the 3a frame would be a very good option. (y)
     
  12. Jan 30, 2020
    garage gnome

    garage gnome Rust polisher

    Western MA
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    Not true, the late and rare 1949 CJ2As, had 3A frames, so you technically wouldn't be altering it that much. They aren't too common, but they are out there. Seth (windyhill) has one.

    If you aren't doing a 100% frame off restoration, then I would look for a 3A frame, so you could have some fun in the mud and rocks. The average person wouldn't know it was changed, and if they do ask, say it was a late 2A thing, which it was, so you wouldn't be lying to them.

    The only difference is the driver's side engine mount. It is further forward on a 3A than a 2A which is easily remedied by putting the later front engine plate on, which allows for a vacuum/fuel pump or sourcing the correct brass foot like Ted has to adapt the 2A front plate to the 3A frame.

    Just my $.02
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2020
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  13. Jan 30, 2020
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    BTDT but I totally disassembled the tub- depending on what's up with the rear floor you may find that the easiest path.

    Yes Classic are the go-to guys if you want quality, not perfect but pretty close.


    Index of /Images/The Sludge Pile/Section_T_Body
     
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  14. Jan 31, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Oregon
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    Got a few hours away from the kids to play with Motorboat.

    Rented a compression tester since I couldn't locate mine. Garage currently looks like bomb hit Walmart, so I can't find anything right now.

    I hand cranked the motor to inspect if I had a stuck valve. All valves moved up and down freely and seemed okay. Poured some non-ethanol down the carb, and jerry rigged a makeshift fuel tank.

    After pouring 2 ounces of Marvels Mystery Oil down each cylinder, and letting it sit for two weeks, the motor turned freely.

    I filled up the radiator and found out my water pump is leaking badly. I have a G503 f-script replacement so thats no big deal. Never got it to run, but I got it to sputter which is small progress. I am no mechanic (didn't play one on TV neither)

    Cold engine (psi)
    #1 - 92
    #2 - 55
    #3 - 70
    #4 - 101

    I got it burping a sputtering and it seemed like it wanted to kick over, but then my battery ran out of juice. So now its one the charger and I'll play with this weekend between a kids Birthday party and the Superbowl. :banghead:

    Go 49ers! (y)

    Definitely curious to see what those numbers might be if the engine was warm. . .
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2020
  15. Feb 1, 2020
    garage gnome

    garage gnome Rust polisher

    Western MA
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    Cylinder #2 isn't very happy, although it may come back if you can get it running. There may be some rust on a valve from sitting open.
     
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  16. Feb 1, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Oregon
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    Surprisingly, on the second pull this morning, (which I wasn't going to do moments before I had to leave for kids B-Day party, but I just couldn't help myself) Motorboat roared to life this morning. Between the Seafoam and the 2 ounces of Marvels Mystery Oil in each cylinder, it smoked really bad and chased me out of the garage. But it ran for a few minutes (2-3 minutes) until my pint glass size improvised fuel tank ran out of fuel.

    I was shocked it kicked over that easy. Although it smoked me out, it suprisingly ran well. Not perfect, but I didn't hear anything that would lead me to believe it had a blown head gasket like the seller claimed. It revved up okay and seemed smooth, no burping, sputtering, or hesitation.

    I was besides myself and beyond shocked it cranked over that easy. Maybe it was just a stuck valve. :shrug:

    I wish I hadn't returned that compression tester the same day I rented it. I wish I had more time to play with it. :banghead:
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2020
  17. Feb 2, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Oregon
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    Proof of life . . . initial start up and the second video is after it had run for about 2 minutes or so.



     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2020
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  18. Feb 2, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Oregon
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    2nd Start and leak . . . if anyone knows what that leak might indicate? Spark plug was pretty tight. :shrug:



     
  19. Feb 2, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Bubbaification Exorcist

    Oregon
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    Removed the plug, it was wet and fouled pretty good for being a new plug. Snugged it back down, ran it again, and didn't get any leaking like in the 2nd video. (y)
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2020
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  20. Feb 2, 2020
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2020 Sponsor

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    That might be a crack in the head there? Pull that plug and see what’s up with it.

    At this point I would do nothing but drive it for a bit.

    awesome!
     
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