Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by 73 cj5, Jul 25, 2019.
I like it . Has that "I'm not done yet" look in it's... eye.
The worst part was making the seat frame. Total pita but doable with a sharpie and tape measure. Passengers are overrated . Well the cage is almost done. I don't think I'll need to bend anything else for now so I'm grateful for that. It's raining again so this will give me time to think about how I'll mount the rear bumper, brake mc, brake arm, etc.
So I cheated.... It's decent. Paint didn't survive shipping and the header gasket didn't come with it; wonder how well RTV will seal. I've been waiting for this to come before doing anymore to the steering. I might have to either beat the tubes in with a sledge or cut them depending on how much room I don't have. I bought a few feet of 2x2 square tubing to move the engine mount.
It had some flange overhang and was rough.
I spent a few minutes and got it to have a smoother transition flange to tube.
I installed it last night. Ordered new steering joints and shaft. I’m going to try and make my own power steering hose...
My pitman arm is off a wagoneer and has a larger taper than the stock cj tre. I’ve been thinking about making a drag link that uses the fsj tre for the pitman arm and cj tre for steering knuckle. Might be easier and cheaper to get another pitman arm though.
Front shocks are mounted. It’s a windy day which makes for poor welding conditions but it’s also not raining...
Made a list of things I need to do to help me from jumping all around and feeling “overwhelmed”.
Brake mc and arm are mounted. Once the pushrod is adjusted it should be fine. I cut the brake/clutch tube assembly off the ecj5 frame and used it to make things easy. Cut the pedal rod? down to get the foot pad closer to the brake arm.
steering shaft is in. making some small adjustments to the header tube.
Did you drop your camera in the outhouse again?
I took a couple pictures. Do I want anyone to see what I've cobbled together is the question.
We’ll be nice. Until I see ya in person.
I don't think anyone can say anything that I haven't already told myself. If it works I can't complain. It was already junk when I got it.
Last week when I put the hood on I did some measuring and there was ~3/4" between the hood and top of the 2g. My first thought was chop the hood but I hate metal work and hood scoops so I'll be going back with a shiny new Solex. There'll be plenty of time for experimenting later on. I'm just wanting this to move on its own at this point.
How’s the wiring?
Build a CJ3C with an even taller hood.
I haven’t wired it up yet. I’m still trying to get the simple things done.
Finally finished in the engine bay. It clears the upper radiator hose and the hood closes. No more bending for me. I just looked at my watch. It took me roughly 6 hours to do that
It seems every other Jeep I get has a blown out or busted headlight. When I ordered the XJ bump stops it was cheaper to buy a headlight and get free shipping than to pay for shipping alone....
Looks much better now.
Made a trip to the junkyard hunting for a driveshaft and found one from an XJ but the slip yoke wasn't long enough. It did have a double cardan joint on it though. Since I'm going with a solex and don't have a stock air filter assembly I decided to look for something similar and I knew fords had a canister type. It took an hour of searching but I found it in an untouched V6 f150 truck. The booster/mc is for a friends 78 F250. We're upgrading the MC/Booster (booster from a 90's F250) and he had to hide it from the wife.
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