Quick Help Needed

I want to take the CJ5 to Jeff City for the Reunion this weekend, but it won't start.

I'm not getting spark, so i replaced the points, condensor, dist. cap, and coil because they were the easiest to start with. Now the engine (225) will start only while the starter is turning. As soon as I put the key in the run position the thing dies. So I replaced the ignition switch, same problem. I have a new Painless wiring kit and everything was running great until a few days ago.

I put a meter on the wire that runs to the + side of the coil. It only gets voltage while the starter is running. Same thing when taking a reading at the the I terminal at the starter.

The only things left in the circuit are the balast resistor (new with the wiring kit), the fuse box (checked the fuses already), and the old solenoid. Any suggestions?

If I can't get it started I can still take the CJ3A, but I was hoping to take the CJ5 on this trip.

Thanks,

Jim

 

To start the first thing I would do is bypass the ballast resistor to see if it will run. If it runs with the starter (at this point the resistor is bypassed) that would be my first guess.

 

Is it safe to bypass the ballast resistor?

Jim

 

That is what happens when you start the engine. Generally sending twelve volts to the coil instead of about nine. The resistor is there to help reduce wear on the points. You'll only be doing it long enough to check to see if the engine will run. You wouldn't want to leave it that way. If it runs you got your problem. Here's a diagram that help explain how it works.

 

Good response CD60.


Great wiring diagram .

A couple of test I would do is the following.

First I would check voltage (or use a test light) to see if current is coming from the wire attached to the on position of the back of the the ignition switch and then going to the ballast. If it is OK, with the switch still on, check the current going into the ballast and then coming out. Then Check the wire going from the ballast to the coil. If it showing current then maybe it could be a weak coil. From what you described, I bet it is as simple as a loose connection on the end of one of the wires.

 

Yep. A poorly crimped connector or a loose/broken wire can give ya fits!

 

Sweet!

 

I didn't get to chime in before you fixed it but, the symptom's are classic for the ballast resistor. I have 2 new spares in my diplomat's glove box.
I think I'll put them in the jeep's now.
Being a Dodge man I would have pick on the resistor first.

 

If you run it too long on 12v the points will get smoked. I fried mine while diag a blown coil. On my 67 cj5 the coil bracket was smaller than the coil and the po or hired help did not notice that and when the coil asm was tightened down in final position the coil got crushed, which lead to premature coil failure.
chris

 

I just wanted to address the 12v bypass issue.

 

All good information and a big thanks to everyone that helped.

Thanks!

Jim

 

Yes this is true to an extent, which is why I addressed it in one of my original posts. However doing this during a short diagnostic period is not even close to enough time to burn up the points, unless maybe your points are already on their way out. The worst culprit for premature point failure is leaving the key in the run position with the engine off.