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2X4 frame for my CJ2A

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by 47v6, Aug 24, 2015.

  1. Sep 7, 2015
    Dawgy

    Dawgy Member

    Decatur,Alabama
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    Hey Chris
    Don't do a 4" body lift. No Way!
    Way to much stress on the body parts.
    I would do something like the steering area for the filler.
    It would be best if the tank was low enough to not have to cut out the top edge of the frame rail.
    But not to low for clearance. The angle of the filler is going to dictate the height.
    Cut the holes threw the frame with a similar angle as the filler and fill with Pipe/Tubing.
    If you have to cut the top of the frame,gusset the frame with more 1/4" plate.
     
  2. Sep 7, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    Not much advice to offer but here's a couple pix of mine.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Sep 7, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I been looking at these kind of pics all morning. No pics with a 2x4 home made frame though. The frame drops about 1.75 inches. I am going to have to section a piece out of the frame to allow for the filler tubes. Mine is the late 2 hole version, but the fix is similar.

    No, I had never planned on 4" body life. Thats idiotic. I have thought about raising the bed up a bit. Thats not actually an issue for me as I am probably going to cut it out and re do it anyway because my first attempt is not good. Functional and strong, but not the quality I want or can do now. this means that i will have issue with the tailgate, but I am probably going to weld it shut anyway. Rear seat is NOT fold and tumble, nor is the brand new one.:)
     
  4. Sep 7, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    If I were you I would mock it up and install as if you could only work from the bottom. It wasn't hard to install my new tank but there were some moments of swearing as I tried to get everything to line up. You don't want to have to remove the tub and drop the axle for a future tank swap!
     
  5. Sep 7, 2015
    47v6

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    Yeah, I will keep that in mind. Sure don't want to have to do anything wacky to get the tank out.
     
  6. Sep 7, 2015
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    As stated - my tanks go up from the bottom (on a floor jack as they are made from 1/8" steel). You want to mock it up with a card board box if possible, toilet paper rolls for filler neck and work how you fit it. Most custom frames I did had custom tanks as well. My setups also have a 2" body lift in the mounts - clears engine better and rear tank fits better...

    Thoughts:
    As far back as possible for said reasons - as high as you can for the same... Had the pumkin smash a tank like that, and why all mine are custom now in flatties.
    Still look a the body lift - 2" is max - only works well with swinging pedals and saginaw steering
    I've used a tube for a slip notch on the rear of the frame. As long as you fill it back in solid, your fine back there. Best one started about 3/4 to the top and was slanted, just let the fill neck ride up as we loaded the tank from the bottom.
     
  7. Sep 7, 2015
    47v6

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    I tacked in the cross members. The rear most cross member that supports the back of the body and the wheehouse is 1.25 inches lower than the full 4" stacked frame rail. Thats why the back rail sits lower. At least this is the measurement on my pile of jeep.
    [​IMG]
    As you can see the tank protrudes 2" above the top of the frame rail. This does allow the filler neck and hose to run above the rail. I already run a 1"body lift. I plan on cutting out the rear bed anyway, so raising the bed 1.25" from where it is now should not be a giant issue.

    [​IMG]

    I am within 1/16" from corner to corner, but as i was tacking in my cross members, I had some square issues. Not a lot, like maybe 1/16 off. One side would be square and the other would be out. I split the difference and tacked them. My present frame is so very messed up that I will never notice.
     
  8. Sep 7, 2015
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    If you want the tank lower - Notch the frame rail at an angle to allow the hose to run up it and use a large piece of tube for the fill. It will not significantly weaken the frame. Just don't notch the frame more than 1/3 it's width.
     
  9. Sep 7, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    Chris,

    Can you take a picture straight on from the back? Maybe a top view too?
     
  10. Sep 8, 2015
    47v6

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    Thank you. I am contemplating this. It looks as if I will need to significantly modify the skid plate no matter what. I see why you run a custom tank. It takes a bit of thinking, but so does this. In the end you have something that is precisely what you need. I like off the shelf stuff, but sometimes i guess its easier to just go the full route. I am not ready to make my own tank though. Maybe next week or month...

    One issue I can think about this is the fuel gauge. Also the fuel sump. I guess it might be easier to run an in tank electric pump?
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2015
  11. Sep 8, 2015
    47v6

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    [​IMG]

    don't mind the finger, its there to block the sun. HA, you all get the finger!!!!
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Sep 8, 2015
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    This might help, this is a factory rear tank in a 71 model.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Sep 9, 2015
    47v6

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    Thank you. I think I will notch the frame a bit and weld in tube, then cut out the bed and raise it up a bit. Should be ok then.
     
  14. Sep 12, 2015
    47v6

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    initial fit up.
    [​IMG]

    I am not real happy with the body. It is of course all my fault because I made it. I learned a lot in that process and I think i am going to cut a bunch of it up and make it better.
     
  15. Sep 13, 2015
    47v6

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    I mocked up a bit more today to get the relative positions of the body mounts and the hole in the cross member for the steering shaft to go through.
    [​IMG]
    things seem to be in the relative positions.
    [​IMG]
    The square protruding area on this fender back toward the firewall is where I sectioned out a piece to mount my battery. I don't at all like it there and will find a better place for it.
    [​IMG]
    This is where my work was really cruddy when I built this part maybe 8 years ago.
    [​IMG]
    I will be cutting all this out and re-doing it to also accept the rear mount tank. The rear crossmember is too low so i will cut the tacks and re weld it in the proper position. I will make the body mounts out of the same tube that the frame is made out of on an angle. The one mount is on the angle of where the frame rises 4 inches. It was like that on my old frame, but it might have been better if I started the angle further back. I don't really know that it matters.

    pretty obvious I made this whole jeep out of garbage, other peoples discarded projects and junk I have found along the way. There is also a progression of my skills from downright terrible to barely ok. It WILL be better though. these pics are like me showing my underwear drawer. embarrassing.
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2015
  16. Sep 13, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    That's going to be so cool when you're done. Keep up the momentum!
     
  17. Sep 13, 2015
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Spokane Valley, WA
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    It looks good from here! Love the progress and process. You wasted no time getting back to business after your trip!

    I totally know what you mean about the progression of skills. I did the frame and cage work on my 3B when I was 20 years old with a 1940's Marquette A/C stick welder that looked like a jukebox. That jeep has been barrel rolled more times than I care to remember, so it is plenty strong, but still... I try not to take any close-up pictures of those parts. 8)
     
  18. Sep 13, 2015
    47v6

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    I get bored and I really hate that. Gotta keep moving. All the early stuff I started doing on this heap was with an ac/dc lincoln tombstone. I realized that welding rusty lace together with an arc welder was kind of a bad idea. I cut out the grill mounts and want to cut out the body mounts but need to do that with an angle grinder and the youngest is napping...

    Off to Harrisburg for a job tomorrow this afternoon.....

    Thanks guys.
     
  19. Sep 14, 2015
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    Liking it, Chris. How much frame will be sticking out in front of the grill? Looks like a lot in the one pic but, I think maybe, the body isn't in it's correct location in that pic.

    And, uhhhh, work? Bah! To heck with that. Now, quit the chatter and let's get at 'er.
     
  20. Sep 14, 2015
    47v6

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    Dave,

    Its about 12 inches from the front of the grill to the inside of the front bumper. It IS longer because I want more room to fit my steering gear in there. The pic makes it look even longer than that. I got back today and unbolted my 1" body spacers. The body sits right down on the frame as good as it can. It has a bit of a twist I will need to fix. I have cut out all the body mounts that will get tacked on tomorrow. As usual, this project is a bit more than I envisioned. Basically I am rebuilding everything but the front an rear differential assembly. Yes I plan on rebuilding the sm420 and doing the d18 too. I am looking for mid spring to have it all done, earlier if I can.

    I am going to try and not work too much this week so i can work on my jeep. stay tuned!
     
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