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2X4 frame for my CJ2A

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by 47v6, Aug 24, 2015.

  1. Aug 31, 2015
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    eh - post delay... I use a plate design of <==< like the front and back of a fish. I also like nice roset welds on the face to help strengthen them. Not too big a hole - 1/2 - 3/4 inch normally.
     
  2. Aug 31, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

    Washington DC.
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    I had planned on this design with the holes added for rosettes. I was thinking about an inch hole on both ends and a 3/4 slot milled lengthwise into the plate. I have been told that welding on a frame is ok as long as its not straight up and down, hence the rounded ends.
    [​IMG]

    should I do something different?
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2015
  3. Aug 31, 2015
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    Round should work - I've just always used the fish plate design as it allowed for the straight welds to stitch easier. My rosette welds I like more of them, smaller so that I burn the edge in and then fill the rest easy for a solid plug. I pre-plan them to span areas so I meld the two rail sections together with the plate to form a nice strong section.
     
  4. Sep 1, 2015
    Dawgy

    Dawgy Member

    Decatur,Alabama
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    Chris
    I would lay a longer piece all the way across and trim the excess to the edge of the frame.(Straight welds)
    Then do the Rosette welds that chuck talked about.
     
  5. Sep 2, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    I ground the plates round on the ends and drilled the big holes for the outer portion.
    [​IMG]
    I used this 1920's or 30's Buffalo Forge camel back machine to turn the 1 1/2 bit. took an hour to drill all the holes, so about 4 inches an hour travel and about 6~8 RPM. slow, very slow.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Next step is to mill some short 3/4 slots along the length of those plates.
     
  6. Sep 2, 2015
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Pretty nice old Drill Press and those old large sized tapered tanged drill bits.............not something you see much of anymore..........neat stuff!
     
  7. Sep 3, 2015
    Focker

    Focker I Hate Being Bi-Polar, It's Awesome. Staff Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    I dig your tools, skills and ambition! Keep up the progress. Wish I had more to contribute other than just being a cheerleader.
     
  8. Sep 3, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    I got the Camel back drill minus the chuck and motor for 175 bucks. I guess it weighs 700lbs. At the time It was just above scrap price. I had a 3 HP 220 motor around, wired it up and it works fine. The belt slips a bit once in a while when the bit gets a hard chip stuck and since I have no belt dressing kicking around I used a gloved hand to put some pressure on it. The power down feed is completely mechanical and has open gears. You can adjust the stop on the quill to push out a lever for the drop out when you set the depth.

    It came with no tooling, but when I bought my lathe and mill, that did. I have a number of twist drills for this machine in various morse taper sizes and adapters for all. I also have several giant jacobs chucks that came with it.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Sep 3, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    Finished all 8 of the plates today. In total it took me over 4 hours. I wanted them to be functional and look "pro", hahahahah.

    [​IMG]

    If you don't order them from some guy with a water jet or laser cutter you use an angle grinder, a giant 12" pedestal grinder, a drill press and a mill. Laborious. Worth it to farm out.

    These are not all perfectly the same, but the holes are just for extra welding, so they don't need to be.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2015
  10. Sep 4, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    before clamps
    [​IMG]
    tacked up
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Sep 4, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    All the holes in all 8 plates are finish welded. It was a lot of MIG welding. They don't look all pretty like they would if I TIG welded them but didn't take 10 times as long.
    [​IMG]

    tomorrow I cut strap, bend it and cover the open angles.

    I really think this frame is over kill and am thinking about the extra weight. I am using 1/4 plate to cover the tube seams. Its kind of ridiculous. I guess if i ever wanted to upgrade to a giant engine and rockwells or something dumb like that it would withstand the stress. Never happen.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2015
  12. Sep 4, 2015
    Focker

    Focker I Hate Being Bi-Polar, It's Awesome. Staff Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Looking good. I know you put some thought into having the shot of your Jeep in the background...I like it!
     
  13. Sep 5, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    in that pic you can see how the front bumper hangs lower on the drivers side. The front of that frame is twisted. My fault, but there are several pieces scabbed together. Its a wonder it drives at all.
     
  14. Sep 5, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    Made the straps to cover the open angle cuts. This frame just doesn't need the strength at this point, just to clean it up.
    [​IMG]

    clamped up. Gonna get one on the bottom too.
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Sep 5, 2015
    Dawgy

    Dawgy Member

    Decatur,Alabama
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    That looks plenty strong. I like the strap set up. That will look good and hold up to most anything.
    How has the warpage been so far?
     
  16. Sep 5, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    All 8 angles have strap tacked on.
    [​IMG]

    So far I have no discernible warp, twist or otherwise. I have been careful to not weld up a bunch of stuff without alternating sides and allowing some cooling.

    I took a look at my old frame and I have a spring hanger where the ends of 2 of those straps are. I might have to add another 4" of strap to the bottom.
     
  17. Sep 5, 2015
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Impressive workmanship. I am getting more interested in watching this now after your engine SNAFU.
     
  18. Sep 6, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    Finish welded the strap to the plate to the tube. Lots of welding. It will stay together, but it looks far from perfect.The important thing is that there is no twist or warp. I guess I did ok then huh? I feel that this is overbuilt. In between cooling I had time to tear apart my broken jeep.

    [​IMG]

    I could weld another pass and fill every little void, then grind, but I don't need to make it stronger. In addition the extra heat might twist it.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2015
  19. Sep 6, 2015
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    Sometimes the 'over built' makes it easier to not cause warping, being careful with the heat goes farther that way.

    Looks like it's progressing well.
     
  20. Sep 7, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    Got the frame clamped up. It went together really nice actually. Nothing weird happened. The cross members are in their relative positions. Just clamped so it doesn't matter anyway. I will have to cut a hole for the front crossmember and the steering, but its just a mock up.
    [​IMG]

    I have a real issue on what to do about the gas tank. I can see that as I have it clamped in place that it stands proud of the frame rails. That would be good for clearance and bad for the bed. I don't want to make 4"body spacers, but if I set it down into the frame rails I am going to have trouble with the filler tube.

    [​IMG]
    I think I will need to push this tank assembly as far back to the rear as possible for differential clearance.
    I could cut a recess in the frame rail for the filler tube.
    [​IMG]

    Whats the answer?

    This is a good thread on this general topic
    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj-gas-tank-install-886370/
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2015

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