Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by CJ5Kyle, Jan 28, 2013.
Glad it work, what king of problem you gone trought?
Finally filled the gas tank up all the way just to find out it leaks. Started having an electrical problem where it was acting like it had no juice at all. Also need to adjust the carb, it keeps flooding. All small stuff thankfully
Someone suggested adding a fuel return line for the extra fuel that is in the carb. The carb is a brand new rebuilt mc2100 so I'm assuming it should be good to go and adjusted properly from the factory.
Is this a good idea if I'm getting too much fuel? It's always ran like it has too much gas though. Should I focus on the carb first?
Do your own adjustments on the carb. The same carb on different engines will probably use different settings. If it still seems like it is getting too much fuel you could try a fuel pressure regulator to lower the pressure to the carb. There really is no guarantee that a reman. carb is going to be sent properly adjusted for your engine.
This was taken during hunting season. Didn't drive it much due to the flooding issue and the rain.
Yesterday, I drove up to tow it home. 500 miles in one day is not fun
Got it home and finished the "garage" it's going to be stored in on the side of my house. Got plenty of projects to do on it over the winter
I'm hoping to get the fueling/tuning issue worked out soon and then I've got a few big projects coming like a spare tire carrier, front bumper build, body armor including tube fenders and then I'll be going through the suspension and hopefully adding some full size axles from a Scout. I've got a lot of work to do!
Thanks for photos and doc.
I spent a lot of money to have my Jeep in good condition, I paid a specialist for this.
Seeing what you have done, i understand that I was right.
Recently I paid for changing the shock absorbers; it is easier made by a pro because he has the good tools, can lift, etc...
The difference on bad ways is very important. Now I feel better driving, ...
You made a lot of hard work, and spent money, starting from a "free of charge" Jeep.
I hope that soon you will be able to use it daily for pleasure, your nice "pirate" Jeep.
i'm curious whats your plans re-guarding the scout axles? is it for bigger tires?
I look forward to the big projects you got planned.
I don't know how bad your carb is flooding, but your float could cause this. Such as if something blocks the needle and doesn't allow float to move up to block incoming gas.
I want the Scout axles mainly for the wider trac. Plus it allows me to run 35s or 36s hopefully without much clearance issues so I don't have to go higher. Not to mention the beefier Dana 44 up front. Also hoping to find one with front disc brakes.
I know the carb needs to be tuned. My only problem is that I've always been a fuel injected guy with PCMs lol. I don't know much in the way of carbs. So I'm just going to follow all of the specs in my Haynes manual and get it tuned to spec.
ask someone on the forum for a scanned copy of factory service manual, or the specs. the Haynes manual I had, had a lot of things wrong with it.
http://oljeep.com/gw/74_tsm/4-FuelCarburetion.pdf Carb section of that manual
http://oljeep.com/edge_parts_man.html 74 cj5 Factory Service manual
I cant remember how close a 73 is to a 74, and I'm trying to learn fuel injection stuff. Carb stuff is easy to learn just takes some time.
I know a guy that did that on his 5 for the same reasons, he likes it however his tires stick out too far luckily he lives in a very small town.
Thanks for the tuning info!
I want the tires to stick out just a few inches wider. Won't be seeing pavement very much other than being towed anyways so I'm not worried about that aspect
Hum i have scout axle under my jeep now. Normaly they are disk brake. But you need to know a little about those axle and fitting them under the jeep. First they have 0 degree castor...Cj's like to have 6-8 degree of castor. Only way to do it is to grind off the c" knukkle and move them to the right castor. I've gone trought that, pretty easy to deal with that. Also you will have to move the front spring perch outside the frame about 2.5 wilder than what you have now. Also if you looking for scout axle , almost all of them have a 3.07 gear ratios.
A final word, scout axle allow enought space for a coil spring setup. I did it on all corner last year and it's day and night compared to leaf spring.
if you have any question about modification i'll be glad to help.
Continue the good work, you're jeep is nice
Yeah I'm either going to outboard the springs to make up for the 2.5" or I'm going to go with coil springs. Not quite sure yet. If I go with coils I'll definitely contact you regarding the install and modifications. Thanks man!
Hum with 6 inch flare, my tire are all cover by them...
Stuck a fuel pressure gauge on it at the suggestions of Tarry99, 6lbs of fuel pressure just like spec. So I'm hoping my fueling issues are just carb related and it needs to be tuned
Then I started on some real small fab work to finally mount my winch plate and front stinger
Then I re-installed my front driveshaft and did a few more odds and ends. It needs a wash badly.
Just ordered the upgrade to a hydraulic clutch. Hoping it's as a worthwhile upgrade as everyone says!
Depending on what type of clutch linkage you have now, the hydraulic may be one of your best mods. The old cross tube style is lousy on twisty trails and the cable version is prone to cable wear and breakage. You are going to like it.
I have the cross style now and the adjustable rod is almost all the way extended due to worn seals in the cross tube. A little bit of flex and it might pop right out. I'm ready to be done with that
I done it 2 years ago, major difference on trail. Clutch is smoother and need less effort than mechanical.
These showed up fast!
Nice, you like it for sure
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