1972 CJ-5 Almost Restoration

Always wanted to have a build/restoration thread of my own.... And now I do.

New to me 1972 CJ-5, 304. Dated June 1972, so she's just a little older than me. Needs a lot of help, but I'v seen worse on this board.

So Far:
Replaced everything between the backing place and the brake drum. As well as new brake lines. It stops now
Most of the top end rebuilt, including timing, water pump, oil pump etc..
New clutch

To Do: Everything
New rims and tires.
DUI/HEI, new battery and wires
Rest of the top end, gapless rings
Lets see how the bottom end looks when we get it back out.
New Tub - Leaning heavily towards a tub from Willys-Overland.com
Painless wiring harness
All the fiddly bits

Current state

You can find some shots at http://www.flickr.com/photos/loft42/


Inspiration for the restoration from JP Magazine: http://www.jpmagazine.com/eventcoverage/154_0707_easter_jeep_safari_moab_41/index.html


If you happen to be on the east coast, or better yet in NJ and have a set of steel rims. Let me know.

 

Dude, with the 304, you should put the mag slot Renegade rims on it, not steel wheels. Just my 2 cents. Had a '74 in high school with the 304, lots of fun, had wagon wheel rims (white), always wanted the chrome ones for it.

 

I have a set of the slotted mag factory Renegade aluminum wheels for sale if you're interested. They would complete that Jeep.

By the way, that thing is clean.

Eli.

 

Nice score! Dittos on the slotted Renegade rims, if you can find them.

 

Nice Renegade! I think slots are a great choice, too.
Avoid that door cutout mod, though.

 

Long time since I started this - to long. But the good news is it's starting to thaw out, and the re-build is officially under way!

The tent is all squared away, heating is installed. And the tool boxes have begun to migrate in. I say "tent" as thats where the build is taking place. It's a very nice 30 by 40 ft tent - I think it's called a Moo-Tel. It also happens to be the same place the former owner built his catamaran. Now it's home to a new project.

Full photo album at http://www.flickr.com/photos/loft42/sets/72157624429890308/

So on to the progress:
Got the front clip off this weekend, with only 2 broken bolts. I'm rather surprised at that, seeing as most of the bolts were caked over with years of salt and sand. Power washing did nothing to remove most of it.

The frame looks to be in good shape. Far better shape than what passes in this photo as a body mount.

Untitled by loft42, on Flickr

I'm leaving most of the parts attached to the body as we remove everything. I'm thinking this may make it a little easier to remember where they go on the new tub. That should be on order by the end of the month.

I'v settled on getting the tub from willys overland. Only problem is the tubs don't seem to have the correct "Jeep" stamp. They have one at the correct hight, but it's not the fancy lettering. So it looks like Ill be cutting and splicing in the old jeep stamps.

Untitled by loft42, on Flickr

Parts have also started to arrive. The rebuild kits for both the transfer case, and the transmission are in from Novak. No pics of them, but I'll take a snap this weekend.

@HortonHearsAWhoJeep, Eli's Jeep Supply and Posimoto: Although I agree that the slotted d-mag would look very nice. They tend to get a little pricey. I also kind of like the simple-ness of the steel. That and I managed to pick up 7 of the kelsey hayes 15x8 wheels for a very good deal. (I'll post picks soon)

@Eli's Jeep Supply If I get though the build and still have budget left over, I'll keep you in mind for a set of the d-mag's.

@dnb5853 Not to worry, I wont be doing that part.

Next weekend.... Off with the tub!
chainsawguy

(Just had to use that)

 

Nice Renegade, looks like a good starting project.



More splicing! It's contagious.....



Here's the end result:

 

Another weekend, another update and one more day to go. Lets see if I can keep up the momentum.

Lots to report on today - Tub off and parts arriving.

So first, tub removal - I know everyone likes to see that.

Untitled by loft42, on Flickr


Untitled by loft42, on Flickr


Untitled by loft42, on Flickr


Untitled by loft42, on Flickr


I left most of the parts on the tub, with the hope that it will make it a little easier to move them to the new one. With the seats in, it's also a nice place to hang out.

Untitled by loft42, on Flickr


Untitled by loft42, on Flickr

Now for the good points. Seems the original owner had the chase sprayed with rust inhibitor. And it seems like it worked. What I originally thought was years of build up road grime and same, seems to be a thick black "stuff". And under that stuff, as a frame is very good shape. It even preserved the original frame paint.

Untitled by loft42, on Flickr

The same cant be said for the tub, or body mounts.

Untitled by loft42, on Flickr


And some interesting bits. Under the vent in the cowl I found a number. Looks like it was written on before the tub was sprayed. The number reads 6-9-1. Any thoughts on what it references?

Another question. I'v seen lots of posts on VIN tag decoding:
J = Jeep
2 = 1972
F = Toledo
83 = CJ-5
5 = Open Body
T = 3,750 lbs GVW
H = 304 std
51122

But I cant find any information on a "Special Sales Order" number. On the passenger firewall I found a separate placard. With the sales order number: D-5472-1. Any ideas or background on this?

Untitled by loft42, on Flickr

And finally, some pics of the parts. Rebuild kits for the transmission and transfer case.

Untitled by loft42, on Flickr


Untitled by loft42, on Flickr
Now to extract the drive train.

 

..

 

@77CJ5 No idea why they did that. If I remember correctly the article mentioned something about making it easier to get in and out. But I cant see how that makes it any easier.

Not to worry, I wont be doing that.

I do have a question for the group. If I understand correctly, all the replacement tubs have a tailgate. And I don't want one. Does anyone have any suggestions on modifying a tub to remove the tailgate? I found a couple of threads, that talk about it. But nothing that documents the process. Anyone done this?

 

Just my 2 cents. I would get rid of the side step when you put it all back together.
from my experience they just get hung up on everything and get ripped off doing some damage to the rockers while off-road. Have seen it happen quit a few times. The owners were not happy. looks like a nice jeep though.

 

I made a frame out of 1/2" x 1 3/4" rectangle tubing. Sorry about the pic. It's kinda hard to see.


Then I fabbed and spot welded a panel I made from 16g steel to the frame.



Finished product.



I had the use of a sheet metal brake so I bent the top of the sheet over the top of the frame for a more finished look. I welded tabs on the frame so I could run bolts through the fender wells to hold the whole panel assembly in. The sides of the panel overlap the tub by about 3/4". I put my corner protection on first, then fit the panel to the corners.

 

@Posimoto - That looks like what I'll be needing to do as well. I think I can salvage the outer box bar from my current tub. Just need to drill out the tack welds. I'll need to find a shop to fab up the lip on the sheet metal to match the tub lip. But I suspect that shouldn't be to hard.

Speaking of tubs - Placed my order on Saturday. Tub should be delivered in about 8 weeks +/-. So the press is on to have the rolling frame finished by then. I feel like I'v reached a mile stone.

In other news, the engine, transmission and transfer case are off the frame. And I managed to get the front end removed yesterday.

Gave up on removing the rear end - started running out of light. The forward bolts holding the leaf springs on are completely seized. Can't even get them to spin. Lets see of the PB will improve the situation for next weekend.
If anyone has any thoughts as to the best way to get these off. I'm open to suggestions.

Steering box is removed as well. Going to do a light rebuild on this. The movement feels a little stiff and gritty on the ends, and I had a little grease seeping out around the steering shaft. Any one have a recommendation on a rebuild kit?


Couple of pics to keep everyone happy:


Untitled by loft42, on Flickr

Happy little engine:

Untitled by loft42, on Flickr

Found this number painted on the frame under all the chassis coating. I assume this is the frame part number? 5350711?
Frame number stamp is just to the left.

Untitled by loft42, on Flickr

As always you can find all the images @ http://www.flickr.com/photos/loft42/

 

I do believe kaiserwillys has hangers for $14, so torching off the whole thing is always an option

Or cut off the bolt head/nut and try running a drill into the bushing or burn it out, but then that would need replacing as well.

And acetone and ATF mixed ~50/50 is prolly the best solution for freeing up stuck rusted sh!t

And very nice set up you got there!

 

@waynaferd - I'v a feeling the Sawzall will be making an appearance this weekend. Not to concerned with the spring as a new set will be going on. But I'd like to preserve the hangers if I can.

Acetone & ATF sounds like a lot of fun. I'll bet I can get lots of skin burns with that. R)

 

Yes, Jeep PN on the frame.

From '73 on, Jeep put any special order numbers on the regular VIN plate. I presume that a separate plate was used prior to '73. You should also have a foil paint and trim code plate, on the passenger side firewall. See the TSM at www.trailforge.com

The SSO number would be in the Jeep Corp. records, but it's unlikely that they have survived. The crayon numbers on the body are common - they were used on the assembly line as some kind of notation during the build. There is no record of their meaning, AFAIK.

A '72 Renegade Orange CJ-5 is an iconic model for AMC/Jeep. Good to see that it's being treated so well.

 

A 1/4" die grinder with a carbide bit works well. Grind the nut off and drive the old bolt out.

Grease? It will be full of grease if it's a manual steering gear. Otherwise it's lube'd with PS fluid.

There was a thread in the intermediate forum recently about parts for the manual Saginaw gear, if you search. Use Google "site:earlycj5.com manual saginaw steering gear rebuild parts". Parts for power steering gears are very easy to source at the parts store or RockAuto or wherever.

 

Is the 691 written in grease pencil? Assembly line markings were common on the cowls. I've seen several Jeeps, mine included, that had grease pencil numbers on the firewall area below the cowl.

The "Special Sales Order" plate is because your Jeep is a Renegade. The '70, '71 and '72 had them attached to the pass side above the battery tray. Some of the earlier ones say something like "Paint code 999." Keep that tag for the resoration. Maybe use some 0000 fine steel wool and Mothers to clean it up a little.

 

@jayhawkclint - Yes, its in grease pencil. I'll have to "re-add" this to the new tub.... keep it original R)

@timgr - Thanks, lets hope I can continue to treat it well for some time.

As a general update. Had company in town so didn't get much work done on the jeep. But I did get bolts out - sawzall did the trick. Managed to slip the blade between the spring and the hanger. So no damage done.

The goal is to get the axels broken down this weekend. That will be the last tare down project before sand blasting.

And I'll take the camera with me to get more picks...

 

So as I start thinking more and more about sand/media blasting. I keep going back and forth about doing it my self, or sending it out.

I have the space - large farm. And a gas compressor, so keeping the air flowing is not to much of an issue. But I wonder if it's just easier to send off all the parts?

Any thoughts? Or recommendations in Central NJ / Monmouth County?