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1971 Restoration.

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by RedWing, May 5, 2019.

  1. May 5, 2019
    RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Sutton Bay
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2005
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    405
    Hi guys, I’m restoring a 1971 CJ5 and am going for stock look. As most, this Michigan body has seen its share of road salt and the resulting rust.

    I’ve already replaced the front floors, rear floor, rear fenders, front quart panels as well as various support with Classics panels. They make a great product and the repairs look nice.

    I’m near the finish line, and have purchased the rear body sections and was ready to cut and weld them in yesterday. While prepping the Jeep for this, I had the chance of taking a closer look at the original side panels. They are dented, but the not rusted through, just a lot of pitting on the inside of the panels where the mud and salt have done their thing.

    Anyway, got to thinking there isn’t much of the original tub anymore and wondered what thoughts you guys have on try to preserve what’s there vs installing the new panels? New panels would be faster and easier, just not to original. Guess I’m getting a bit sentimental about the old gal.
     
  2. May 5, 2019
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor Sponsor

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    As long as to new panels fit correctly and are installed properly, replace what is bad. The only way to kill rust is to sandblast to clean white metal, or cut it out and replace it. Sandblasting tends to warp sheetmetal, so may cause more bodywork issues.
    It sounds like you have already replaced a fair amount, so why not continue as you have been going?.
    I would love to find a solid original tub to restore my Tux with.
    -Donny
     
    fhoehle likes this.
  3. May 5, 2019
    62CheepJeep

    62CheepJeep Member

    Spartanburg SC
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    Sep 10, 2018
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    I would love to see some pics of what you have completed so far :sneak:
     
    dnb5853 likes this.
  4. May 5, 2019
    RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Sutton Bay
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    Oct 30, 2005
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    You make a great point. This would require some aggressive blasting to get rid of the rust. I hadn’t thought about the war page.
     
  5. May 5, 2019
    RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Sutton Bay
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    Oct 30, 2005
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    I’ll take some pics and see if I can upload them. I tried in the past, but wasn’t able to upload
     
  6. May 6, 2019
    RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Sutton Bay
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2005
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    Still working on re-sizing the photos to upload and share. In the meantime, would anyone be able to share the width of the Jeep body at the bottom? I've measured the rear and front on the bottom of the body and am getting approximately 59.25".
     
  7. May 6, 2019
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Tulsa, OK
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    I get right at 59.0" . I am measuring outside dimension across the lower portion of the door opening by the door post holes. Mine is not exactly a perfect tub but that area has never had any significant damage.
     
  8. May 6, 2019
    RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Sutton Bay
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    1.JPG 2.JPG 3.JPG 4.JPG 5.JPG 6.JPG 7.JPG 8.JPG 9.JPG 10.JPG View attachment 48677 View attachment 48678

    Thanks for measuring for me, it’s very helpful. I had to cut the classic panels to fit, but my tub was so mangled, that I couldn’t get a good measurement. I’m getting 59.25. I just don’t want to run into an issue when it comes time for fenders and hoods. I’ll take another look in the morning. I could trim a bit more off I think.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 6, 2019
    TIm E, Bowbender, Twin2 and 1 other person like this.
  9. May 6, 2019
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Tulsa, OK
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    I would bet there was that much variance off the factory floor, all within tolerance, but I can't verify it without shop drawings.
    It looks like your doing excellent work there ! (y)
     
  10. May 6, 2019
    RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Sutton Bay
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    Thanks! I’ve never done anything like this before. Having a lot of fun too!
     
  11. May 6, 2019
    62CheepJeep

    62CheepJeep Member

    Spartanburg SC
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    X2. Great job
     
  12. May 7, 2019
    fhoehle

    fhoehle Sponsor Sponsor

    Harford Township, PA
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    Very nice work. Ambitious, and impressive!
     
  13. May 7, 2019
    RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Sutton Bay
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    Thanks and yes a big project! I'm a bit over my head and really am grateful to the members of this forum for the wealth of knowledge they have and their willingness to share it! Hope I got this width ok, because everything else is tied to it!
     
  14. May 7, 2019
    fhoehle

    fhoehle Sponsor Sponsor

    Harford Township, PA
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    It's a Jeep, you will probably be more accurate than the factory.
     
  15. May 7, 2019
    fhoehle

    fhoehle Sponsor Sponsor

    Harford Township, PA
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    A Jeep functions well under bad circumstances for the same reason an AK47 does...loose tolerances! You are really doing nice work and don't feel overwhelmed. From what I see, you have the bull by the horns!
     
  16. May 7, 2019
    RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Sutton Bay
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    Oct 30, 2005
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    Thanks, looks much better in the pictures than up close. (LOL). Hopefully it will all look straight when done. I’m gaining on it slowly. I’ll post updates as the occur.
     
  17. May 7, 2019
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member Sponsor

    exploring the...
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    the factory had plus or minus a quarter inch tolerance you are way closer than that...
     
    RedWing likes this.
  18. May 23, 2019
    RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Sutton Bay
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    Oct 30, 2005
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    Turning some time to the frame for a bit. Does anyone have any tips on how to get the spring shackle bushings out of the frame?
     
  19. May 23, 2019
    Lockman

    Lockman ..... He who dies with the most Tools... Wins ! Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    White City, NY 14617
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    Hey Redwing.... I think your doing an excellent Fabrication Job . Keep up the Good work , Brother.
    What I have done for the bushing & spring removal is soak the sides with Liquid Wrench overnight , Then heat the outside of the shackle frame to expand it, while using a big pry bar or air hammer to pry it down. You've got to work quick & also beware of overheating and burning the rubber part !
    This is just an idea that worked for me , I hope others have more ideas for you. Good luck......
    Richie----Lockman
    .
     
  20. May 23, 2019
    65seejayfive

    65seejayfive Blazin’ new trails

    York, PA
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    This is going to be hard to explain but here goes. I used a piece of all thread, some nuts/washers, and (2) sockets (one larger than the bushing and one the EXACT size). I took the larger socket and put it on the outside of the shackle hanger over the end of the bushing (this socket needs to be larger than the bushing). I then ran my all thread through the socket, middle of the bushing and out the other side. I took my other socket that is the EXACT size as the bushing and put the nuts/washers on each end. Start to tighten. The smaller socket will be drawn (along with the bushing) through the eye on the hanger INTO your larger socket. I hope this makes sense and is what you are looking for! It worked for me when I changed out my rear leaf and shackle.

    Note: Make sure your smaller socket is the same size as the bushing, no larger or you’ll be trying to get your socket back out of the hanger. Don’t ask me how I know :whistle:
     
    Bowbender likes this.

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