1970 Jeep Rebuild

Looking good... Your "Run and get bit" always cracks me up...

 

Awesome!

 

How are the Heim joints working for you as tie rod ends? Have seen them on race cars but heard they are not good on the street. Thinking about replacing with greasable ends? Jeep is awesome looking!

 

The Heim joints have been working out well, no problems with them so far. I do inspect them on a regular basis. I did this about 8 years ago or so. Got the information off this site from a thread to upgrade steering components.
Thank you for the compliment.

 

when I took JEEP apart I found that the radiator was rubbing the brake line on the drivers side where I had bent it to clear the steering shaft:


This caused a hole to be rubbed in the radiator and brake line....both not a good thing:

A crack was also found in the top of the radiator:

I re-routed the brake lines and had the radiator repaired until I can source a new one:

 

The brake line looks like its hitting the steering shaft in the picture but actually has about 1-1/2" clearance.

 

When Tarry99 built the motor for me, (Blueprint 225), he included an OFFY 360 intake manifold and a re-built Holley 390 4-barrel (8007) carburetor with an off-road kit installed:



I installed a 1/2" phenolic spacer and new carburetor studs:

I bought a new Carter mechanical fuel-pump and installed, along with all new fuel lines and fuel filter:

I installed a new thermostat, (180 degree), and a new thermostat houseing and installed both of these with gasket and permatex silicone sealer:

 

I got the radiator installed and the front end put back together:

 

I am waiting on a few parts to complete putting this all together and firing it off for the first time.
My D.U.I. distributor and Live wires should be here this afternoon.
I had bought a new D.U.I. distributor from a member here several years ago. It had never been run and was new in the box. It has been sitting around in my attic for at least 2-years. I called Davis industries, to make sure I had the right distributor, and they told me to send it back and they would check it out to make sure it was to spec.
They asked me a lot of questions concerning the build, such as cam size, carb size, altitude that it will be running.
They said they would set it up for my motor. Great company!
Why I was at it, I bought a new set of Live Wires from them built specific for the odd fire v-6.
I am also waiting on a few adapters and plugs for the manifold, so I can finish installing heater houses and plug vacuum ports that I'm not using.

 

added 5-quarts of 20-50 Valvoline motor oil and a pint of Red Line engine oil break-in additive for the initial break in period on this motor:

 

this motor is running solid lifters, so the valves were initially set up to .015. I will check after warm up to make sure they are about .018

 

You may have to adjust those floats once it's running. .............015 cold should get you near .018 Hot , check lash after warmed up. Make sure you run through the break-in procedures.

 

A quick update......I have all my parts, finally. Well almost all of them, had a little hiccup with distributor. D.U.I. makes two different distributors for the 225......one is a short version the other is an extended version, to clear the intake and power steering.....wanna guess which one I have?......D.U.I. is going to help me out and exchange the short one for the extended one, I just need to pay the difference between the two. In the mean time I'm just going to run the distributor I was running on my other motor, with the PerTronix module in it.
As i have said before, I'm working a lot of hours right now, so I am only just getting a little done each day if I wake up early before work. I finally have everything done on the motor and have checked it twice, so I am finally ready to fire it off on Monday. I have a game plan on how I'm going to proceed on the break-in procedure.
I have been battling a water leak that has cost me a lot of time getting to this point. Terry had given me a new by-pass hose with the motor, so I thought what the heck I'll just replace all the hoses, even though they only have a couple thousand miles on them. I also bought a new thermostat housing, while I was at it. I got everything installed and put water in the radiator, and the motor started leaking water up top by the thermostat housing. I took everything apart and cleaned it up and re-installed it with new gasket, still leaking. Took it apart again checked new housing to make sure it was flat. It was pretty close, but not truly flat, so I took it to a buddy who machined it flat and re-installed it. STILL LEAKING! When all else fails go with what you know to be good, so I took it apart again and installed the old thermostat housing.....STILL LEAKING!......(I had also checked the intake manifold, to make sure it was flat, and it was).......So I took it apart for the fifth time!...put everything back together re-filled the radiator.........STILL !@#$%^ LEAKING!.......I starting to pull it apart again when I grabbed the top radiator hose, before I emptied the radiator of its water, and the leak got worse........I pulled the radiator hose and it had a small hole about an inch above the radiator clamp on the bottom side. I put back on my used hose and it now doesn't leak!.....This was over a period of 4-5 days with an average of 3-4 hrs sleep....Talk about frustrating!
Thanks for reading!

 

I finally got it fired up!
Initially I had a vacuum leak problem and it wouldn't even stay running.
The vacuum leak caused a backfire and popped the power valve in the carburetor.
I had an extra power valve and changed it out, then fired up the motor again and went to work with a can of carburetor cleaner to find the vacuum leak.
I found the leak to be in the carburetor between the main body and the base plate. After removing the carburetor from the manifold, I realized that the screws holding the two pieces together were not tightened down all the way.
I got these tightened down and re-installed the carburetor and started it up......purred like a kitten. (after a couple little adjustments)
I re-checked the timing and oil, put some heat into the motor and ran it up to 2000 RPM's for the next 25-30 minutes with no load on the engine, to break in the cam.
After the cam break-in period I shut it down let it cool off and re-checked the oil and re-torqued head bolts.
While I was breaking in the cam I kept an eye and ear open for anything that was making a weird noise or any leaks.
Only issue was a small oil leak at the oil pump, found the pressure valve was not tightened all the way, re-tightened and no more leaks.
I was going to take it for a drive, but I have small issue with clutch I need to sort out. (adjustment, wont disengage)
After the initial warm up the motor had 25-30lbs of oil pressure at idol and 40-45 at 2000 RPM's
The temperature did come up to 205 and back down to 195. I'm running a 180 degree thermostat, I might pull that one and put in the 160 degree thermostat I have sitting on the bench.

 

Hey Rob, Sounds good..............

 

Thanks Terry!

 

Hydraulic or mechanical?

 

Its Hydraulic. It's the same set up I was useing prior to changeing the motor, don't know how it got so far out of wack.

 

That issue on Hydraulic clutch's was covered pretty extensively here in this thread: Clutch .......Read away! If I can help give me a call.

 

Terry,
Ok I'm at a loss!....
let's start with I haven't changed anything in my clutch set up other then the pressure plate.
I will start with the pedal ratio, with my calculations it is 6.13 ratio. (x=12.25"~ y=2"=6.13)
I am useing a 3/4" Novak slave cylinder and I believe a 7/8" master cylinder.
I am getting 1.12" movement from the slave cylinder at the clutch fork.
The adjustable rod is adjusted all the way out.
My problem is the pedal, it doesn't start to disengage the clutch until its about 3" off the floor.
I don't believe the clutch is fully disengaging.
The only variable that I am not 100% sure about is the size of the master cylinder! (I don't remember where it came from and the part #FS321712 that's stamped on the side won't come up with anything on the Net).
Prior to changing the motor and the pressure plate, my pedal engaged at the top of the stroke with about 2" inches of play before engageing.