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1969 CJ5 project

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by alex211, Oct 4, 2009.

  1. Apr 27, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    The backside, should be able to read the number

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Apr 27, 2010
    Mike S

    Mike S Sponsor

    Cameron Park Ca.
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2009
    Messages:
    811
    Alex, you are a true gem:D

    This is obviously a odd balance flywheel.

    Matches the one I have, makes me feel better about things.
     
  3. Apr 27, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    No problem.

    I think I'm going to buy the complete gasket and seal kit, and tear down the engine to a short block. If everything looks nice which it should since it has 60k and the oil that came out of it looked good I'll just put it back together. Right now the intake, rear main seal, and timing cover were leaking. I want a nice clean motor so the leaks will have to go.

    I also found a truck at the local junkyard I think I'm going to get sometime soon here. It has a 44 front, 14 bolt rear, 4 speed, NP205 and a SBC. I can use the axles, tranny/t-case, and brackets and accessories off the engine.
     
  4. Apr 28, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
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    441
    Today I spent a couple hours cleaning up the harness. I got all the un-needed stuff out and labeled all the wires that need tied into the jeep's harness, it was actually really easy.

    [​IMG]

    Anyone know what these sensors do?

    Thinking this is an oil pressure switch for the fuel pump
    [​IMG]

    Top one between the plug wires, I think it's a water temp sensor
    One directly above the oil filter, I think its an oil pressure sender
    The one just to the left of the oil filter, almost positive that's the knock sensor

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Apr 28, 2010
    double R

    double R Member

    Reseda, CA
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2003
    Messages:
    332
    pretty simple right? once you get in there...the painless wiring manual (can be downloaded from their site as pdf) helps in identifying the sensors also.

    yeah, the one between the plugs is temp sending unit for the gauge...not for the computer. the temp sensor for the computer is at the front of the motor. you might have to replace the sending unit depending on what gauge you will be using. i replaced mine with a sensor to match my gauge but had to use a sleeve since the hole size is different

    yeah, that's the knock sensor to the left of the oil filter.

    I don't know what that is above the oil filter

    yeah, that's the oil pressure switch next to the dist. does it have three pins in there or only two? if there's three, that means an oil pressure gauge can be hooked up to it also....otherwise it's just to switch the fuel pump.
     
  6. Apr 28, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
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    441
    Yeah, once I got all the tape and tubing off the harness it was really easy to see what went where and what I needed to eliminate.

    I figured the sender between the plugs was for the gauge, since the one up front is for the computer. I think the sender above the oil filter is the oil pressure for the gauge, since it ties into an oil gallery. The oil switch by the distributor only has 2 pins.

    I plan on running these gauges so the original oil pressure and water temp sensors will have to go.

    [​IMG]

    Then for a speedo and tach, I'm thinking about cutting a rectangular hole in the dash and using a piece of brushed aluminum to mount the gauges to.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Apr 28, 2010
    73cj5

    73cj5 Member

    Maine
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2004
    Messages:
    904
    Fuel pump is controlled by the ecu, it runs as long as the engine is cranking or running. The switch is for an idiot light most likely.
     
  8. Apr 29, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    Aug 25, 2009
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    441
    There is no idiot light, and if the switch doesn't close when the engine is running the fuel pump will quit. It is tied into the fuel pump relay wiring.
     
  9. Apr 29, 2010
    73cj5

    73cj5 Member

    Maine
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2004
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    904
    Could be gm used changed the setup some time in the 90's most setups i have seen dont use a oil pressure switch. What year is the engine?
     
  10. Apr 29, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    Aug 25, 2009
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    441
    It's a 1989 harness with a 1990 engine.
     
  11. Apr 29, 2010
    73cj5

    73cj5 Member

    Maine
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    Jan 15, 2004
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    7747 ecu? Went back and checked the diagram and some use a oil switch, and some do not.
     
  12. Apr 29, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
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    441
    Yeah it has 7747 ecu, from a manual trans truck.
     
  13. Apr 29, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
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    441
    Anybody have opinions on what leaf springs to use? I was thinking about a used set of stock YJ springs, there is a local spring shop near me. Maybe they could bend me up a set of YJ springs if I can't find any good used ones local to me.

    My buddy got a set of stock YJ springs in like new shape for free today, I wish I could find deals like that.
     
  14. May 3, 2010
    jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Oklahoma City, USA
    Joined:
    May 18, 2006
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    2,622
    I think you'll find an NP205 way too big for a '5. Plus, with the D18 you'll get the option of a Warn OD.
     
  15. May 3, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    Aug 25, 2009
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    I can't use a D18 with the 14B though.
     
  16. May 4, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    Aug 25, 2009
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    I have been wondering if it would be better to have the front shackles in the front or rear of the springs. What do you guys think?
     
  17. May 4, 2010
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2009
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    1,212
    I did a shackle reversal on my YJ a few years ago. It did track better on road. But you get more nose dive during hard braking (SOA springs). And I got a lot of rearward axle movement, and needed a 12" long travel splined area on the front driveshaft which was kinda pricey. For me it felt like it contacted obstacles better off road, especially climbing steps. Some folks will nay-say that, but for me it felt noticeable, an improvement. All in all, I won't be doing one on my ECJ5. But mine is gonna be a pretty mild trail rider, nothing hi-tech, nothing hi-zoot. Simple, reliable, and good parts. Something I can fix when need be with some bailing wire, a spork and a leatherman pocket tool.
     
  18. May 6, 2010
    73cj5

    73cj5 Member

    Maine
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    Thats A HUGE axle what tire size are you planing on running!
     
  19. May 6, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    Aug 25, 2009
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    441
    36x12.5 or something around there. I'm going to pretty much copy double R's CJ6.
     
  20. May 6, 2010
    sawedoffcj6

    sawedoffcj6 The Gunsmith

    minnesota
    Joined:
    May 5, 2010
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    59
    If you are confident in your ideas and have a well thought out plan, there is very little you can't accomplish in the world of fabrication. These areas are excellent places to demonstrate creativity and problem solving. There is no doubt that a task such as that is a monumental undertaking and quite often a scar filled road paved by trial and error but with a whole bunch of determination and a willingness to learn a person can find the greatest satisfaction in a job well done as well as a priceless plethora of knowledge gained from experience.
     
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