1969 CJ5 project

Ok, it's better for me anyways since the middle of my frame is buckled on both sides. If I cut the middle out I will have two straight ends.

All I have to do then is replace the middle with two pieces of 2x4x3/16 and I will have a CJ6 frame. The tub work is no problem since I have to make a new one, might as well make it 20 inches longer. I can't wait to buy a welder and start working on it.

 

Don't want to make you mad here I just feel like adding my two cents for what it's worth. I am new to this site and have gathered an opinion that while a bit obsessed these guys are all here to help anyone with their project. I have read this post and would recommend you go back and reread it from the top. What you have is a collosal waste of time on your hands. If your body is shot and you want to hodgepodge something together, fine but now your stating the frame is buckled on both sides? You should understand that an immense force had to take place to make this happen. I only have 15 years as an automotive designer and was a mechanic way back in highschool and don't know it all but you should take a breath and really your energy to a chassis that will actually be better in the end not just different. Good luck.
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The frame is twisted up on the right front from a recovery many years ago. I don't really have much to start with anyways and that doesn't bother me since I will be pretty much just building a jeep. It is damn near impossible to find a good CJ6 frame or tub around here, and since jeeps are so flat fabbing stuff is easy.

I have been thinking about the drivetrain for the jeep, the adapter to go from a SM465 to my D18 is $500 and I really don't want to pay that much for one. Since I am stretching it 20 inches I think it would be easier to just pull a SM465 from a 4x4 chevy with a married 205 and just use that.

Then for axles a set out of a 3/4 chevy from the 70s would work nice. How much do I have to shorten a front 44 to use waggy shafts? For the rear I was thinking about just copying what double R did and recenter the rear wheels.

 

Now that I think about it, building a new frame out of some 2x4 steel will be easier than trying to fix my old rusty frame. It should be way stronger too.

 

Yep.

 

DoubleR did it with his 6, it can't be too bad.

I'm picking up a 89 GMC with a 4.3 in it and a 4.3 in the bed this Sunday. The 4.3 in the truck has 60,000 miles and the one in the bed has a knock, the engine in the truck runs great.

 

The problem I ran into with the np205 is the height. It encroached into the cab way too much so I had to modify the floor over the t-case. I mounted the whole motor/tranny/t-case very high because at the time, I thought I was going to use the mechanical fan and was centering the fan on the radiator. You might be able to lower the combo enough so that you wont have to mess with the floor...keep in mind that the fan will be lower in relation to the radiator/grill. On mine, I decided to keep the shroud on the grill as mounting for the radiator and that controlled the motor's positioning...but you can definitely cut off the shroud, mount the radiator how you want it mounted and that will make your positioning of the motor more flexible.

 

Modifying the floor is no issue for me since I don't have any at the moment, when I get around to mocking everything up I'll try to get it high enough so the t-case doesn't hang down too much.

I'm pretty much copying your jeep doubleR, thanks for the inspiration.

 

Got an organ donor for a TBI 4.3 today.

 

Way to go

A small bit of advice, dont unhook wiring from the engine when you pull it, just remove the harness from the chassis, and remove it along with the engine. Label the wires as you remove them, and make a list also.

If you can keep the donor truck around until the Jeep is running, you will save having to go find missing items at the junk yard, or parts store.

Is the truck auto or manual tranny???

 

The truck has a manual tranny.

 

It looks like the engine in the truck has an EGR, how do I know what type it is and how to remove it? It has some tube going from the manifolds to a smog pump and then into the intake via a hose. The engine in the bed is a 1989 and has no provisions for any tubs to screw into the manifolds, the one in the truck is a 1990.

 

Is this part of the EGR system? Tubes on the manifolds and a smog pump.


Progress so far, there a broken bolt in the head I will have to get out, it held on the smog pump so I may not need it anyways.

 

Great!!!

When you get it apart, any chance of getting you to post photos of the flywheel???

There has been a lot of discussion about the correct flywheel for the 4.3.

At least this will give us info for the TBI engine.

Do you know if it is a balance shaft, and if the rear seal is one piece or not??

Thanks.

 

I'm pretty sure it doesn't have a balance shaft since it is a TBI motor, the CPI motors should have one though.

I was planning on using the hydro clutch off of it but the bell housing and tranny are a single piece, oh well. I can post some pictures of the flywheel when I get it out, I hope the flywheel will work with a SM465 bell housing and clutch.

I may have the engine out tomorrow if I can get the engine lift off my brother, I got all the bell housing bolts out today. All I need to do now is un-hook the little stuff and remove the engine mount bolts.

 

Anyone ever put an intake, cam, flat top pistons, and headers on a TBI 4.3? I have the spare engine and I am thinking about building it up and putting it in someday after I get the jeep put together and running with the stock 4.3.

Does the ECM need to be reprogrammed to work with those performance modifications?

 

Got the engine pulled out of the truck today.

 

11 inch flywheel



The 4.3 has a one piece rear main seal.

 

How about a photo of the other side of the flywheel, looking to see if it is odd balanced or neutral.

Thanks.

If there is a part number on the FW, that would be nice also.

Thanks a lot for taking the time to do this.